Sound Insulation Job on my 06 Coupe

[ViperDad]

Anyone looking for some peace and quiet.
Tried to send a detail on my efforts, but the damn 'puter made it disappear. Botttom line, I used refrigeration foam on the inside chassis behind all the plastic panels and I can now talk and hear on my phone. It is significantly more effective than doing the exterior of the chassis.

 

[steve911]

OK, I'll bite. What is refrigerator foam?

 

[AbsolutHank]

OK, I'll bite. What is refrigerator foam?

I'll wait to hear officially, but it sounds like the cheap way out...

 

[RECOIL]

Interesting. I'd like to see more.

 

[FrgMstr]

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[ViperDad]

This is foam sheeting that's used for insulating commercial refigeration equipment. Same as the one they use to wrap around ac units cooling and heat lines. And no, it's not the cheap way out; price the stuff! I just have a great source at the right price: free. There's no adhesive backing, and that's an advantage that lets you adjust without sticking before firming it in place with duct tape. Not sure about the "official" requisite, but just did 500 miles and I can hear the keystrokes on this 'puter. I guess a decibel reading would confirm but we need an untreated specimen and instrument readings. Your choice on a checkpoint: Atlanta or Hickory NC

 

[DaDood]

Anyone looking for some peace and quiet.Tried to send a detail on my efforts, but the damn 'puter made it disappear. Botttom line, I used refrigeration foam on the inside chassis behind all the plastic panels and I can now talk and hear on my phone. It is significantly more effective than doing the exterior of the chassis.

Wait... you want to hear something other than the engine and exhaust? Check this man's "man-card"!Just kidding. Couldn't resist.

 

[ViperDad]

Yah, I worked the man-card up to the viper from jaguar e-types, 6 and 12's. Nice but not as loud or as quick. Still, not bad for 50 year old technology. The good thing about them is it's a hell of a lot less as collector car insurance: 3 for under 400 bucks a year!

 

[georgethedog]

This is foam sheeting that's used for insulating commercial refigeration equipment. Same as the one they use to wrap around ac units cooling and heat lines. And no, it's not the cheap way out; price the stuff! I just have a great source at the right price: free. There's no adhesive backing, and that's an advantage that lets you adjust without sticking before firming it in place with duct tape. Not sure about the "official" requisite, but just did 500 miles and I can hear the keystrokes on this 'puter. I guess a decibel reading would confirm but we need an untreated specimen and instrument readings. Your choice on a checkpoint: Atlanta or Hickory NC

Can you take some pics of the product (maybe of a left over piece--brand name and where to get it) and where you put it on the car? Not really getting the exact location.

 

[Sonoman]

Another good product for heat and sound reduction is the DEI "Boom Mat" Floor and Tunnel Shield. It has an aluminum face bonded to 1/8" fiberglass insulation, and is lighter than the Dynamat Extreme product. I like the self-adhesive Boom Mat for under the car use (above the cats and in the transmission tunnel) because of the relatively light weight with good heat blocking/reflection. Amazon sells this mat at about 25% discount in the 48" by 21" size.

For apps where sound reduction is the main goal, the 1/4" thick Dynaliner black foam self-adhesive mat is very good (i.e. behind the Viper seats under the carpet). Again, significantly lighter in weight than the Dynamat Extreme, and easier to handle without the dense aluminum layer. I am using all three of these insulation mats in my '05, mainly to reduce heat coming through the floor and noise from the rear wheel-wells.

 

[ViperDad]

Ok, the material is known as closed cell foam and you can go to http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-insulation/=ehhvql
I didn't pick any of those, my source is from a family friend who got off spec product. The choice, in my opinion is not critical as long as it's closed cell. Open cell would concern me because it becomes a nice network to **** in water.
If you look at all the plastic from behind the seats all the way to the side pieces running into the trunk area. All of this can be removed and you will see a s..tload of space between the plastic and the metal body. Particularly so at the back/top where the seat belts pull out. Basically, that 'Hoover Dam" top section can take a lot of foam. The section rising from the floor up to that (all behind the seats) can take 1/2" foam. Any more and I think that carpet behind the seats may bulge out too much.
Only caution is to not go hamfisted on pulling the plastic off. There are two button-like clips just behind the "Hoover"and flush with the carpet that can give you fits. I broke one, not knowing that the center of it needs to be pushed into the body and not by trying to get under it with a knife. No damage but I need one new button. If I'd have gone to the manual I'd have seen the gizmo and realized how it works.