SRT 10 Skip Shift Eliminator

[Kaya]

I looked at the installation instructions for the skip shift eliminator. I wanted to verify that this is the same proceedure on the SRT 10. The only references I found in search were for 1st and 2nd Gen cars. Thanks. Kaya

 

[Viper Wizard]

Hi Kaya,
The only difference with the SRT's is its belly pan! You may need to remove it to reach the connector. You could also step on your loud pedel a little harder and the SS system will leave you alone.

 

[2002_Viper_GTS_ACR]

You could also step on your loud pedel a little harder and the SS system will leave you alone.

lol.. classic.

BTW where is the cheapest place to get a skip shift elim? not one of those cheezy duck tape and a resister setups, but the actual plug in units? Ebay has the cheap 12$ version that requires tape.

Jon

 

[Racer Robbie]

I have them

 

[SylvanSRT]

skip the skip shift and just have DC performance get another pcm with a reflash for you and have it progamed out along with a little extra hp and tq for added value.

 

[FASTFUN]

Please explain what a re-flash is and what does it do,if you leave every thing else stock? How much does it cost and were do you have done?

 

[cbarber]

What it is doing that makes you want to remove it ?
CB

 

[Kaya]

Hi Kaya,
The only difference with the SRT's is its belly pan! You may need to remove it to reach the connector. You could also step on your loud pedel a little harder and the SS system will leave you alone.

Hehehe...that is exactly what I have been doing....on my Z06, I had the PCM programmed to take this out and I had the CAGS eliminator for the Z28. from what I understand the piece fits all three cars. Mine is sitting on the kitchen counter...so if it wasn't too big of a pain....we were gonna install it.

I may go ahead and buy a second PCM that is programmed and just keep my original.

I will probably convince my hubby to look at this tomorrow!

I learned to drive a manual with the skip shift so it isn't too bad...but the Viper really hates the 1 to 4 shift a lot more than the Vette or the Camaro. When it bogs, I have been revving up a little then going back to second.....

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[Kaya]

What it is doing that makes you want to remove it ?
CB

The Viper tends to bog a little with the 1/4 shift. Its irritating. If I wanna go to 2nd, then I wanna go to 2nd. On the Vette and Camaro the shift wasn't as bad because it didn't bog the car down. (And since I have a spare eliminator...heck why not?) Like I said I may just go ahead and buy the extra reflashed PCM.

 

[valentine_viper]

skip the skip shift and just have DC performance get another pcm with a reflash for you and have it progamed out along with a little extra hp and tq for added value.

I'll second this suggestion. Not only will you get rid of the skip ship without any rewiring and gain significant power, the car will run much smoother and cooler. Had mine for a few months now and love it.

 

[valentine_viper]

Please explain what a re-flash is and what does it do,if you leave every thing else stock? How much does it cost and were do you have done?

The reflash is done by DC Performance. http://www.dcperformanceinc.com/ They can either reflash your existing computer or send you a new replacement unit. The replacement is the better way to go since you can easily swith it back and forth with the factory computer when your car goes in for service or needs to be inspected. The reflash optimizes fuel and timing curves, drops the engines themostat setting to 170, gets rid of the annoying skip-shift feature as well as a few other odds and ends. The result is about a 25 to 30 rwhp gain as well as much smoother and responsive running characteristics in general. The cost is approximately $550 for the reflash and an additional $260 for the base unit if you decide to go with a replacement. The thermostat recalibration is a $70 option, but well worth it. A number of people have had this done (including me) and to my knowledge all have been very happy with it. If you do a search, you should be able to find a lot of discussion on the subject.

 

[cbarber]

At times my 01 Vette with the skip shift would slide over to 4th from 1st skipping 2nd and I was pulling toward 2nd. It was aggravating. My Viper has never done this.
CB

 

[2BADD 4U]

Step on the go pedal a little more

 

[zorroespanol]

you'll need a new thermostat +housing if you reprogram the fans to come on at 170. the Tstat should be 160-165 to be exact.

Otherwise, you will have a roller-coaster temperature in the coolant. not good, you want a cool 160-170 steady.

 

[Peter Nielsen]

The Viper tends to bog a little with the 1/4 shift. Its irritating. If I wanna go to 2nd, then I wanna go to 2nd. On the Vette and Camaro the shift wasn't as bad because it didn't bog the car down. (And since I have a spare eliminator...heck why not?) Like I said I may just go ahead and buy the extra reflashed PCM.

Hmmm... Interesting... I always thought it was frustrating in my 04 Z06. Now in the '06 Viper, I find it much less of an annoyance. I think the difference might be that the Viper skip shift delay is shorter. And to boot, the indicator on the Viper is much better...

Peter

 

[Racer Robbie]

With the 180 thermostat and Dan's program my temp in between 180-190 degrees on a 90 degree day. Very little fluctuation even in traffic. It runs on the 180 side on a cool day.DAN"S THE MAN

 

[SylvanSRT]

i thought DC performance recomended useing the 170 degree thermostat

 

[Racer Robbie]

My thermostat is marked 171-185 and is what Dan recommended. It starts to open at 171 and is fully open at 185. Some people call them a 170 thermostat, and others call them a 180 or 185. I told him the part number that I had bought and he said that was the same as he sold so I was good to go.

 

[zorroespanol]

My thermostat is marked 171-185 and is what Dan recommended. It starts to open at 171 and is fully open at 185. Some people call them a 170 thermostat, and others call them a 180 or 185. I told him the part number that I had bought and he said that was the same as he sold so I was good to go.

Correct Robbie....

T-Stat is not an exact science!! I will not pull #'s out of my @$$, but there is a range of temperature from the time the spring starts to expand (OPEN) to the time it is fully expanded, and fully opened.

My guess is they are rated at the temp. when they are fully opened.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Normally thermostats are rated by the opening temp (temp when opening begins). Normally the tstat is fully open about 10 degrees after opening, depending on pellet expansion characteristics. The stock tstat begins to open at 195 F.

 

[zorroespanol]

I've never taken this motor apart (SRT) but why do we need to change the housing along with the T-stat??

The car runs so much better cooler, I am considering this option.... or Hot Rod option B, Drill a couple of holes through the T-stat.

I may take fire for this, but it is a tried and tested option! I would not put just a ring, because too much flow will keep the computer on open loop all the time...

Question B,
Anyone know the h.p. output difference in open vs closed loop???

 

[Racer Robbie]

Quote
"Normally thermostats are rated by the opening temp (temp when opening begins). Normally the tstat is fully open about 10 degrees after opening, depending on pellet expansion characteristics. The stock tstat begins to open at 195 F."

The above is also my understanding of the rating of thermostats. Mine starts to open at 171 degrees and is fully open at 185 degrees. It normally runs around 180 on a normal day of 80-90 degrees.






Quote
I've never taken this motor apart (SRT) but why do we need to change the housing along with the T-stat??

No you do not have to change the thermostat houshing on a SRT-10 engine.

 

[Peter Nielsen]

Hi Kaya,
The only difference with the SRT's is its belly pan! You may need to remove it to reach the connector. You could also step on your loud pedel a little harder and the SS system will leave you alone.

Hmmm... Is there a difference between the SRT coupe and roadster? My ViperTech attached the skip shift eliminator in less than a minute on my '06 SRT roadster! Plug-n-play. No need to remove anything. (The car was up on a lift, so this sure made things a lot easier).

Peter

 

[Mike Dolan]

Here's my .02 worth....If you are going to program the ECU to eliminate the skip shift, why not go another degree and do something useful with it? My idea is to actuate the solenoid when the car is going fast, to eliminate the possibility of a missed shift, hitting 2nd when intending 4th, or 1st when you want 3rd. The vehicle speed is available, and it would seem simple to actuate the solenoid when going too fast for 1st or 2nd gear.

Regards,
Mike Dolan

 

[Peter Nielsen]

Here's my .02 worth....If you are going to program the ECU to eliminate the skip shift, why not go another degree and do something useful with it? My idea is to actuate the solenoid when the car is going fast, to eliminate the possibility of a missed shift, hitting 2nd when intending 4th, or 1st when you want 3rd. The vehicle speed is available, and it would seem simple to actuate the solenoid when going too fast for 1st or 2nd gear.

Good idea, but the actuator only blocks 2nd and 3rd (all or nothing - can't separate them)

A better shifter (Hurst) is the solution.

Peter

 

[05Viper]

I got my skip shift from http://www.snakeoylproducts.com/home.php and I put it in, in minutes without removing the pan. I jacked the car and laid under the car and could reach the plug and install with 1 hand. Very easy to do.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Some of the skip shift eliminators are plug and play and others you will need to hard wire onto the harness that plugs into the solenoid with the connectors and heat shrink that we provide in our kit. I have come across quite a few different connectors being used on different year vipers and they seem to use different connectors between model years.

 

[Peter Nielsen]

I got my skip shift from http://www.snakeoylproducts.com/home.php and I put it in, in minutes without removing the pan. I jacked the car and laid under the car and could reach the plug and install with 1 hand. Very easy to do.

Yup. That's the one I got too. You can usually get them shipped for $15-$25 on eBay. No need to pay $60 for two connectors and a 10 cent resistor...

Peter

 

[Kaya]

Thank you very much.....my husband can do his crew chief duties and install mine this weekend. I will be showing him this thread.