Stereo install advice wanted for GTS

[GTSjbud]

I am getting ready to purchase and install a new stereo system into my '96 GTS and would like some advice...since I have never purchased and/or installed a stereo system before. Oh, I plan on doing all the work myself and will not be taking the car to a stereo shop.

Where can I find a generic car stereo installation guide? Is there any online? Is there anything I need to specifically need to know before installing a stereo into a GTS?

I thinking of purchasing a Pioneer AVH-P5900DVD In-Dash DVD Multimedia AV Receiver with 7 Inch Widescreen Display

Haven't decided on speakers and/or amplifier.

**Note that I have removed all the OEM stereo system and will be using none of it.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[GTSnake]

Just get an installation kit with your head unit. They are basically a wiring harness that plugs into the head unit and has leads for each of the speakers, power, grnd etc. You will need to add wiring to your new amp from the head unit also. You can also check this site for any additional tips Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers

 

[jpa99acr]

I have a Pioneer Avic N2 (like the AVH but with Nav) in mine and LOVE it. I also have the backup camera hooked up and it is AWESOME. I'd give that consideration and would get the wiring harness mentiond above before installing. Good luck!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[GTSnake]

Where did you mount the camera?

Here's mine.

 

[viperdude118]

Just get an installation kit with your head unit. They are basically a wiring harness that plugs into the head unit and has leads for each of the speakers, power, grnd etc. You will need to add wiring to your new amp from the head unit also. You can also check this site for any additional tips Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers

I am almost certain that there is not a plug and play wiring harness available for the viper, I looked all around a few months ago when doing mine.

You'll have to hard wire each wire individually. Also run a new power wire to the amp in the back, don't use the factory DIN cable or you'll probably get interference from the ignition. I underneath the center console and back through the plastic panel behind the seats. There is a color code website available somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

 

[viperdude118]

heres the link.

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/603088-oem-stereo-pin-out.html

 

[GTSnake]

The installation harness is not vehicle specific as it is head unit specific. The connector connects to the head unit but the other end is just loose wires.

There is no way you can make a vehicle specific harness unless you have a head unit connector on one end and a DIN connector on the other end.

 

[GTSjbud]

Just get an installation kit with your head unit. They are basically a wiring harness that plugs into the head unit and has leads for each of the speakers, power, grnd etc. You will need to add wiring to your new amp from the head unit also. You can also check this site for any additional tips Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers

Thanks for the info!

So I assume that Pioneer should be able to supply a wiring harness adapter that will plug right into the Viper wiring harness. Is this correct? If not, who do I get something like that from?

In addition, are the OEM speaker wires sufficient for aftermarket stereo system that will be putting out more power than the original unit? If not, I assume that I will need to install better speaker wire, etc. Correct?

Oh, and the OEM system did not come with a seperate sub woofer. Any recommendations to tie the wiring in to the OEM wiring system?

I know, I know, I'm a greenhorn so don't laugh to hard at my questions.

 

[viperdude118]

Thanks for the info!

So I assume that Pioneer should be able to supply a wiring harness adapter that will plug right into the Viper wiring harness. Is this correct? If not, who do I get something like that from?

In addition, are the OEM speaker wires sufficient for aftermarket stereo system that will be putting out more power than the original unit? If not, I assume that I will need to install better speaker wire, etc. Correct?

Oh, and the OEM system did not come with a seperate sub woofer. Any recommendations to tie the wiring in to the OEM wiring system?

I know, I know, I'm a greenhorn so don't laugh to hard at my questions.

Nope, incorrect, should have been more specific before. GTS bud is right, you can get a harness adapter for any head unit. 99 % of head units should already have the plug in for the unit but the other end will be loose wires.

Now since all vipers come from the factory with a "cheap" alpine system, the plastic harness plug coming out of the dash that plugs into the harness of the head unit is specific only to this one off brand of alpine that the viper comes with.....no other brand, nor other aftermarket alpine plug will fit this.

Like I said before, you'll have to cut and splice the factory "alpine" harness coming out of the dash.

 

[viperdude118]

Factory speaker wire should be sufficient, unless your really beefing up the wattage output!

 

[GTSnake]

Like I said before, you'll have to cut and splice the factory "alpine" harness coming out of the dash.[/quote]


It depends on if you're using the amp in the head unit or a separate amp. If you are going with a separate the only wiring you will run from the head unit are pre outs (RCA). From the amp you will need to splice into the factory speaker wires. You can get the wire schematic at the installers link I listed above.

It may be easier if you listed the equipment you will be using so we can steer you in the right direction instead of guessing.

 

[jpa99acr]

Buy this:

VIPER UPGRADE PRODUCTS

 

[jpa99acr]

I am almost certain that there is not a plug and play wiring harness available for the viper, I looked all around a few months ago when doing mine.

You'll have to hard wire each wire individually. Also run a new power wire to the amp in the back, don't use the factory DIN cable or you'll probably get interference from the ignition. I underneath the center console and back through the plastic panel behind the seats. There is a color code website available somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

There actually is.. (see my above link)

 

[viperdude118]

There actually is.. (see my above link)

You've attached a link to a product listed for an SRT10, I think we've been talking about a GEN II here. I don't know if the harness would be the same. and it doesn't even list a price.

Besides, the viper store is ridicioulsy expensive to buy anything from them, that's why there not more popular.

 

[DrDJ]

Since no one has said it yet, "That will buff right out..... I mean, stereo? What stereo? I've never turned mine on! I'd rather smell - I mean hear - the exhaust."

There's definitely no stereo harness adapter available for the GEN II.

DrDJ

 

[dave6666]

How about pin out on the DIN cable?

 

[GTSjbud]

My intentions for a good sounding stereo will encompase the following equipment. Please note that I do not plan on competing with the system. I basically just want a good sounding system.

Head Unit

Pioneer AVH-P5900DVD In-Dash DVD Multimedia AV Receiver with 7 Inch Widescreen Display

Here is a review:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...ioneer AVH-P5900DVD Review by PASmagazine.pdf

Speakers

Front

ENC525CV - 5 1/4" ENERGY Convertible speaker (150W, 75W RMS)

or

ENC650CV - 6 1/2" ENERGY Convertible speaker (150W, 75W RMS)


Rear

ENC650CV - 6 1/2" ENERGY Convertible speaker (150W, 75W RMS)


Tweeters

ENC46CV - 4x6" ENERGY Tweeter (100W, 45W RMS)


Sub Woofer

ENC10 - 10" ENERGY (600W, 200W RMS)


Here is a review for the ENERGY speakers:
http://www.gentec-intl.com/GentecIn....10_v4_-_12_volt_review_pas_mag_july_2007.pdf


**Probably many of you have never heard of ENERGY brand before. ENERGY sells a very 'high end' speakers for home, etc. They have just got into automotive speakers and are getting very good reviews. I have a set of ENERGY speakers for my home theatre system and absolutely love them!!


PLEASE ADVISE

1. What size speaker fits in the front doors of a Gen. II...5 1/4" or 6 1/2"??

2. I am planning on installing (1) 10" sub woofer. I do not need the big bam, bam, bam sound and therefore the reason I have chosen (1) only. Or should I install (2) 10" sub woofers?

3. Any recommendations on Amp required and size/rating?


Cheers
Jason

 

[dave6666]

1. What size speaker fits in the front doors of a Gen. II...5 1/4" or 6 1/2"??

I put Alpine 6-1/2" in my doors. Had to build 3/8" thick spacers as they needed to be flush, not inset.

 

[GTSnake]

Rear

ENC650CV - 6 1/2" ENERGY Convertible speaker (150W, 75W RMS)


Sub Woofer

ENC10 - 10" ENERGY (600W, 200W RMS)

PLEASE ADVISE

1. What size speaker fits in the front doors of a Gen. II...5 1/4" or 6 1/2"??

2. I am planning on installing (1) 10" sub woofer. I do not need the big bam, bam, bam sound and therefore the reason I have chosen (1) only. Or should I install (2) 10" sub woofers?

3. Any recommendations on Amp required and size/rating?

You will be wasting your money on rear full range speakers. The high frequencies will never get out of the trunk since it's blocked. If you want rear imaging you will need something like this:

The 5 1/4 or 6 1/2 will fit in the same mounting holes. The only difference is the 6 1/2 will give you slightly better low end. I don't recommend using the head unit amp for your full range speakers. It just doesn't have the head room. Since you need an amp for your sub anyway get the JL 500/5. It's one of the best sounding amps and bulletproof. You don't really need 2 subs. One 10" will give you plenty of oomph. However with one sub you may encounter some frequency cancellation due to the way the window is angled. I notice it in my system when the windows are open.

Also I think your are probably spending a little too much on your full range speakers. The way to make speakers sound good is more dependent on how it's EQ'd versus price. Sure, the high priced speakers use better materials but you can get excellent sound from lower priced speakers with a good tune. The hard part is finding a good tuner.

 

[dave6666]

You keep teasing us with the pic of that mount.

Give Dave at Big Brakes a call and start production!

 

[GTSjbud]

You will be wasting your money on rear full range speakers. The high frequencies will never get out of the trunk since it's blocked. If you want rear imaging you will need something like this:


The 5 1/4 or 6 1/2 will fit in the same mounting holes. The only difference is the 6 1/2 will give you slightly better low end. I don't recommend using the head unit amp for your full range speakers. It just doesn't have the head room. Since you need an amp for your sub anyway get the JL 500/5. It's one of the best sounding amps and bulletproof. You don't really need 2 subs. One 10" will give you plenty of oomph. However with one sub you may encounter some frequency cancellation due to the way the window is angled. I notice it in my system when the windows are open.

Also I think your are probably spending a little too much on your full range speakers. The way to make speakers sound good is more dependent on how it's EQ'd versus price. Sure, the high priced speakers use better materials but you can get excellent sound from lower priced speakers with a good tune. The hard part is finding a good tuner.

GTSnake...I'm a green horn and trying to figure out what you are telling me. Hope you don't mind answering more of my questions.

So here's what I am thinking of for simplicity:

Front Speakers: 5 1/4" so that I don't have to make any spacers

Rear Speakers: 6 1/2" with (1) 10" sub

**Should I get Coaxial speakers instead?? Therefore I would not install a sub woofer. So the speakers that I have listed are 'full' range...Is this correct?? Should I install Coax in the rear and Convertibles in the front?

Please note that I had listed the 6"x4" speaker as a tweeter to go in the door panel tweeter hole. But it appears that the Convertible speakers can seperate the tweeter so that it can be located in a different spot. I'm still confused??

JL500/5 Amp as suggested

 

[dave6666]

If you are putting the sub in the rear than you don't need the factory pair. They are subwoofers, and will be outdone by the 10" sub.

 

[GTSjbud]

If you are putting the sub in the rear than you don't need the factory pair. They are subwoofers, and will be outdone by the 10" sub.

I plan on installing a 10" sub in the rear. I was planning on purchasing a set of 6 1/2" speakers for the rear of the car.

Please advise.

Cheers
Jason

 

[GTSjbud]

Here is a picture of a speaker setup that was posted in another thread. It looks like there is one sub woofer and two rear speakers. Two speakers and one sub is what I was thinking of installing in the rear.

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[dave6666]

I plan on installing a 10" sub in the rear. I was planning on purchasing a set of 6 1/2" speakers for the rear of the car.

Please advise.

Cheers
Jason

You need one OR the other. Two 6-1/2" subs WITH one 10" sub will sound like a bad version of Inagadda da vida as three different speakers bounce waves at different frequencies off of each other and everything else.

 

[GTSjbud]

You need one OR the other. Two 6-1/2" subs WITH one 10" sub will sound like a bad version of Inagadda da vida Baby as three different speakers bounce waves at different frequencies off of each other and everything else.

Hey Dave...I must be misunderstanding you because you are suggesting that I want to install two 6 1/2" subs with one 10" sub. But in fact I was thinking of installing two 6 1/2" speakers and one 10" sub. Am I missing something? I'm starting to think that I'm on glue

 

[dave6666]

Hey Dave...I must be misunderstanding you because you are suggesting that I want to install two 6 1/2" subs with one 10" sub. But in fact I was thinking of installing two 6 1/2" speakers and one 10" sub. Am I missing something? I'm starting to think that I'm on glue

OK. Deep breath. You said you were going to put 5-1/2" speakers in the doors. That means if you are going to put 6-1/2" speakers any where, they must go in the back. If you put a 10" sub back there too, that will be five total speakers right?

I am saying DO NOT put the 6-1/2" or any other speakers back there if you do a 10" sub in the back.

2 door speakers + 2 6-1/2" rear subs = 4 speakers total - OK

2 door speakers + 10" rear sub = 3 speakers total - OK

2 door speakers + 2 6-1/2" rear subs + 10" rear sub = 5 speakers total - NOT OK
My humble opinion, with advise from Car Toys on my install.

 

[DrDJ]

OK. Deep breath. You said you were going to put 5-1/2" speakers in the doors. That means if you are going to put 6-1/2" speakers any where, they must go in the back. If you put a 10" sub back there too, that will be five total speakers right?

I am saying DO NOT put the 6-1/2" or any other speakers back there if you do a 10" sub in the back.

2 door speakers + 2 6-1/2" rear subs = 4 speakers total - OK

2 door speakers + 10" rear sub = 3 speakers total - OK

2 door speakers + 2 6-1/2" rear subs + 10" rear sub = 5 speakers total - NOT OK
My humble opinion, with advise from Car Toys on my install.

Then how do you explain the custom hatch install shown above? It clearly shows two rear speakers plus a sub. It looks like whoever did it knows a hell of a lot more than Car Toys. Personally, I don't think that you gain anything by adding rear speakers in a Viper so I went with the doors and a sub. If I had added rear speakers, I would have used this:

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - PXA-H701

Since the above install used alpine amps, they may well have used The Alpine digital time correction device. In the end, I didn't think it was worth the expense for my application.

DrDJ

 

[dave6666]

Then how do you explain the custom hatch install shown above? It clearly shows two rear speakers plus a sub. It looks like whoever did it knows a hell of a lot more than Car Toys.

When I finally build a box for a rear sub in my GTS, you will SEE three speakers.

Two 6-1/2" subs

One 10" sub

Pay attention. This is where it gets tricky.

You will HEAR one 10" sub.

Why will you only hear one 10" sub?!?

Because the two 6-1/2" subs won't be connected to anything!

I'm not just gonna leave holes there!!!

 

[GTSnake]

The trunk install above looks nice but it was done by a sound shop that works on every other Honda and Toyota too. The problems with that install are that the two speakers are not being used effectively and will be barely noticeable from the drivers seat. Therefore IMO useless. Second, the entire enclosure blocks the airbag vents which we know is there for a very good reason. If you block these vents you will restrict exhaust air from the cabin when the air bag blows or if you open the windows at high speeds. Some people have had their hatch hinge come loose because their vents were blocked.

Dave, that rear speaker mount can be mass produced but would be very difficult to do right. And it won't be cheap either.

GTSjbud, you need to get a set of component speakers for the front doors that have a separate tweeter and a 5 1/2" or 6 1/2" round speaker. Then add a sub in the trunk and you're done. Forget about any other speakers in the trunk rear as it will be useless.

If you like you can PM me your phone number and we can chat.