This is embarassing...but

black mamba1

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I think it is also important and hopefully can help me and others who are new to the drag strip.

I FINALLY took my Viper to the drag strip last night in Rockingham. It was a 2 hr drive of stop and go driving in the Viper, and when I finally got to the track she was rather hot. I just love the good ole boys down here! No nonsense, no crap about roll bars, helmets, long sleeves, insurance papers...none of the regulatory crap. I signed a document saying I wont sue anyone for crashing or killing myself...and I went through a lookover inspection...and went and got in line to race the 1/4 mile. Simple as that!

I was all cocky when I got to the track b/c I used to race a Vette some years back...and it was an automatic w/ about 300 flywheel hp. Well, the Viper is an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT STORY.

When my turn came to race, I pulled up to the light. Now, here is my first problem. I put one foot on the gas to get the rpm up to around 2500, and one foot on the clutch...but the Viper began to roll a bit before my light turned green. I am wondering if I should have used the emergency brake to keep her still and just drop it when I launched? Anyway, when I launched she just began bouncing violently in first, she got sideways...very sideways, so I got out of it, straightened her up and got back on it and shifted to second, she gripped and lunged sideways again and the next thing I knew I was headed into the left concrete wall doing about 70 mph. The crowd came to its feet. I was about to total my Viper. I corrected her and brought her back towards the center of the track...she kept fishtailing and finally straightened up. Very close call. After that run guys were congratulating me for keeping her out of the wall, it was that close.

The second and third race I was so shell shocked I never watched my rpm gage, I just kept watching the track to make sure she stayed straight. I didnt know exactly where the finish line was so I never shifted into forth. I finished in 3rds redlining. My BEST time was a miserable 12.66 at 118.66 mph in 3rd gear, I never shifted into forth on any run. My 60' times were consistently 2.5 sec, my 1/8th mile was 8.5 sec at 90.39 mph. After my third run my car cut off at the end of the run, and would not start for a few seconds after. ***?? I stopped after that. I think it was b/c I kept it in third at red line too long.

First and foremost let me say this: Driving a Viper in the 1/4 mile is a helluva lot harder than it looks for those of us who have never done this before. It is also more dangerous than one thinks it is, again, for those of us new to this kind of racing. I have MAJOR respect for guys getting these cars to run like they really can. I have been kicking ass on roll ons for years, but this 1/4 mile stuff takes practice.

I have some questions for you 1/4 junkies:

1. Do you use your emergency brake to keep the car still at the line before you launch to keep the car from rolling?

2. Do you roll into first and second? Or do you simply floor it? I cannot seem to keep her straight when I floor it.

3. Are you shifting into 4th gear before you finish?

4. Do you really need to warm up the tires on a hot sticky track?

5. Is the best way to stop the hopping to start at a higher rpm or lower rpm?

I am writing this thread to help as many guys besides myself as possible. I went to the track and almost totalled my car. Maybe this advice can prevent others from doing what I did. BTW, I am going to meet w/ Kevin at UR this week for some pointers...then I am taking my ass right back to that track next weekend...there is no way in hell I am going out like that.
 

plumcrazy

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been there done that. glad youre ok.

i turned hard left just after the 1-2 shift....wasnt fun at all...lol

and cocky in a viper, regardless of where you are (street or strip) is always gonna end up bad. good lesson for all of us.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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been there done that. glad youre ok.

i turned hard left just after the 1-2 shift....wasnt fun at all...lol

and cocky in a viper, regardless of where you are (street or strip) is always gonna end up bad. good lesson for all of us.
I cannot imagine trying to keep that beast u have under control. And there is NO WAY I am getting a supercharger until I can master this cream puff power.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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You have 100 more hp than I do but on street tires I'll launch around 3k then immediately and gradually squeeze the gas so it doesn't bog.

Going into second gets about 1/2 throttle.

Going into third and forth gets full throttle.

If you feather the clutch you'll get more control off the launch and lower your ET by a tenth or two but you'll also be replacing the clutch at 20K.

It also helps if you don't vote democrat. :)
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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You have 100 more hp than I do but on street tires I'll launch around 3k then immediately and gradually squeeze the gas so it doesn't bog.

Going into second gets about 1/2 throttle.

Going into third and forth gets full throttle.

If you feather the clutch you'll get more control off the launch and lower your ET by a tenth or two but you'll also be replacing the clutch at 20K.

It also helps if you don't vote democrat. :)
The 100 more hp did me absolutely no good last night. There were guys in trans ams and Mustangs w/ minor mods kicking my ass. I am going back down there next week to try new things like what you have mentioned. My Viper was in the same situation as Obama's Health Care plan last night...in deep doo doo.:D
 

1BADGTS

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LOL and last week you wanted to Mod in the 1000 RWHP range i tried to tell you anything above 550 to the tire is a waste on Pilots at the strip.
 

FikseGTS

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if you are getting 2.5 60's, then the track must not have been that sticky, or you gave it it way too much off the line and was spinning for a while... you should be able roll out and beat that 60' with no launch at all... :)
 

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I'll add my 2 cents to this one

I have some questions for you 1/4 junkies:

1. Do you use your emergency brake to keep the car still at the line before you launch to keep the car from rolling?

NO, I would never suggest you use the emergency brake to keep the car from rolling. In most cases the launch area should be flat. Get you car good and stopped before preparing to launch. Do your burnout roll forward into the first staging beam. Stop completely and wait at least one second. Pull into the second staging beam. Stop again completely for a least one second. The bring the rpm's up to 2,000 at the most until you get the launch down. I would actually suggest that you start just off of idle until you get the rest of the actions down track figured out.

If you still roll, go to a perfectly flat surface and make sure it isn't the clutch dragging when you bring up the RPMs. Simply make sure when on the flat surface that the car doesn't roll. Put the car in 1st, bring the RPMs up to about 4,000 rpm while depressing the clutch still. If the car stays still the launch area at the track may out of level.

I would install a line lock on the car before using the emergency brake. The line lock will lock the front tires and is actuated by a switch. This also makes burnouts much easier!



2. Do you roll into first and second? Or do you simply floor it? I cannot seem to keep her straight when I floor it.

Depends on traction. Read response to #4

3. Are you shifting into 4th gear before you finish?

Depends, on my Gen III when it was stock, no. My Gen IV I did have to shift with the stock PCM.

4. Do you really need to warm up the tires on a hot sticky track?

YES, this is what may be causing all of your traction problems. If you roll through the water box and do not do a quick burnout (not necessarily a smokey one) you will still have water on the tires. You will do what you did on the first pass every time. Do a good burnout.

Track temperature and prep will help but you should always do a burnout. It cleans the tires off and it makes them stickier as well. Length of burnout varies. Most people suggest no smoke on street tires as they say it makes them glassy. I have found that PS2s and Sport Cups like a little smoke and the Nittos like lots of smoke. (smoke just indicated heat, more smoke, more heat)



5. Is the best way to stop the hopping to start at a higher rpm or lower rpm?

The best way to stop the hopping is to stop the spinning. Again, go back to number 4. If you are still hopping, track prep is not very good. Yes bring down the launch rpm, and baby shift 1 to 2 gear.

Good luck!
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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LOL and last week you wanted to Mod in the 1000 RWHP range i tried to tell you anything above 550 to the tire is a waste on Pilots at the strip.
You sure did, and I still need to give u a call...u obviously know what u r talking about!
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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if you are getting 2.5 60's, then the track must not have been that sticky, or you gave it it way too much off the line and was spinning for a while... you should be able roll out and beat that 60' with no launch at all... :)
She wasnt spinning, she was bouncing. Any ideas?
 

GR8_ASP

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She wasnt spinning, she was bouncing. Any ideas?
Are you suggesting that you had wheel hop without spinning? Did not think that was possible. I would guess based on your description you were spinning wildly. Launch from a lower rpm and squeeze the go pedal. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle in first. Increasing in second as it hooks.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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I'll add my 2 cents to this one
F8L this helps TREMENDOUSLY. As much as I know about my Viper and road courses, I know little about professional drag strips. Last night was the first time I had ever been to one. I saw the water box, I had no idea what that was. I also didnt know there were two staging areas..I just kept watching the guy who was pointing at me to move up or back. And the advice on stopping completely really helps. I was so excited I just dont think I really ever got set.

I cannot wait to get back there this week. Any idea on why my car cut off after the third run? She started back up in about 5 seconds.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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Are you suggesting that you had wheel hop without spinning? Did not think that was possible. I would guess based on your description you were spinning wildly. Launch from a lower rpm and squeeze the go pedal. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle in first. Increasing in second as it hooks.
Ok, this makes sense. I started at 2000 rpm and she spinned and hopped much less, but she still did it. But I also do not think I did a proper burnout according to what I am reading here.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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Was your shifter bobbing all over the place? Might want to get the engine and tranny mounts upgraded to the Woodhouse mounts.
No, none of that was going on. She shifted good, broke tires loose 1-2, and broke loose 2nd to 3rd.
 

1BADGTS

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The above can really mae one appreciate just how great a driver Jamie Furman is to run in the 10s on stock tires in a Viper at 550 to the tire.As far as beating Mustangs in the quarter save your .Go to any major track on a test and tune night(E-TOWN is near you )and all night long you will see Mustangs being driven in off the street by teenagers running 8- low 10s.Mustangs can easily (and cheaply )be modded to run great quarter mile times Vipers cant .A Vipers trap speed will never equate to a ET AS THE CAR WAS NEVER ENGINEERED TO RUN QUARTER MILES.You can go out and drop 20 grand plus on a 1000 hp blower kit and the car( on Pilots) still will not run much better than mid 10s.If you try to put slicks on the car to run better ETS be prepared sooner or later to put BIG DOLLARS to repair the driveline issues caused by the added traction.All the above being predicated upon ones ability to drive the car .
 

F8L SNK

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BTW, wheel hop will lead to broken axles. If the car is hopping violently, let out completely then roll back into it. Failure to do so may mean you will be pushed off track and towed home with a broken axle. If you are hopping your time is not going to be good anyway.

Wheel hop is directly related to spinning so work on that first.
 

1BADGTS

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You sure did, and I still need to give u a call...u obviously know what u r talking about!
Thank you and please do call.Your close to me if your around i will call the mag guys and see if they have Englishtown .If so Evan Smith is one of the best drivers in the country on stock tires hes also a great teacher.Give me a call anytime.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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There are 1/8th mile tracks all over the place down here, practically one near every farm. :) I have been thinking about going to those to practice, b/c most of the expertise needed comes in the first 1/8th of a mile.

The reason I say this is dangerous is b/c when shifting 1-2 or 2-3rd if she gets sideways you have less than a second to correct it at these speeds or you are DONE. Even if you do correct it, she may not cooperate and continue fish tailing in the opposite direction. This definitely takes practice. These cars do cost quite a bit.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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BTW, wheel hop will lead to broken axles. If the car is hopping violently, let out completely then roll back into it. Failure to do so may mean you will be pushed off track and towed home with a broken axle. If you are hopping your time is not going to be good anyway.

Wheel hop is directly related to spinning so work on that first.
Thanks, my wife always drives our other car whenever I go racing...in case I crash. We do not want to be stranded 100 miles from home with a broken Viper.:(
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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My car cut off at the end of the third run. She wouldnt start for a few seconds...this ever happen to anyone before? If so, what causes this?
 

Paul Hawker

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BM

Sounds like an exciting first day at the track. Now you know why most of the more professional tracks require safety rules and inspections.

If you are running treaded tires do not go through the water box. Drive around it, and pull into your lane. Back up to the concrete burnout area and just spin your tires a bit to clean them off, and warm them up a little.

If you go through the water box your tires will pick up water in their tread, and puddle right where you wish to launch.

Do not use any raised throttle at first. Just launch at idle, letting your clutch out smoothly while getting on the gas. Control wheel spin with both throttle and clutch. You will quickly learn how much power the track can hold on that given day.

Shift smoothly into 2nd, lifting off the gas almost all the way, and smoothly, but quickly let the clutch back out while getting back on the gas. Do not shock your drive line at this time, or you will cause violence to your driveline, and loose directional control.

As you get a bit more experience, you can ramp up all these parameters to optimize your times, but in the beginning take a few runs to get your reflexes honed.

You will soon find your times improving, and your Viper not eating up parts.

If you get the chance, stand behind a launching car. You will notice that many of the inexperienced drivers actually turn the wheel every time they shift. Practice keeping your car in the middle of your lane.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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BM

Sounds like an exciting first day at the track. Now you know why most of the more professional tracks require safety rules and inspections.

If you are running treaded tires do not go through the water box. Drive around it, and pull into your lane. Back up to the concrete burnout area and just spin your tires a bit to clean them off, and warm them up a little.

If you go through the water box your tires will pick up water in their tread, and puddle right where you wish to launch.

Do not use any raised throttle at first. Just launch at idle, letting your clutch out smoothly while getting on the gas. Control wheel spin with both throttle and clutch. You will quickly learn how much power the track can hold on that given day.

Shift smoothly into 2nd, lifting off the gas almost all the way, and smoothly, but quickly let the clutch back out while getting back on the gas. Do not shock your drive line at this time, or you will cause violence to your driveline, and loose directional control.

As you get a bit more experience, you can ramp up all these parameters to optimize your times, but in the beginning take a few runs to get your reflexes honed.

You will soon find your times improving, and your Viper not eating up parts.

If you get the chance, stand behind a launching car. You will notice that many of the inexperienced drivers actually turn the wheel every time they shift. Practice keeping your car in the middle of your lane.

Thanks Paul, this really helps. I am printing out these suggestions to read over and over, and to take with me when I go back to the track. Not only can these ideas improve my drive time, but keep my car and myself in one piece! :2tu:
 

1BADGTS

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The car given the mods(horsepower ) should be capable of low to mid 11s at near 130 .Advice on paper is nice but the only way to achieve the above is go to the track and practice.
 
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black mamba1

black mamba1

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The car given the mods(horsepower ) should be capable of low to mid 11s at near 130 .Advice on paper is nice but the only way to achieve the above is go to the track and practice.
I really hope so. My times really SUCKED but the boys down there were really nice and kept trying to help me with the car and they totally understood. They wanted to see a Viper really rip a good time...instead they almost got a demolition derby!:omg::D
 

1BADGTS

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I really hope so. My times really SUCKED but the boys down there were really nice and kept trying to help me with the car and they totally understood. They wanted to see a Viper really rip a good time...instead they almost got a demolition derby!:omg::D
You will get better you just have to practice(its like anything else someone has done for the first time ).
 

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