Tricky flat from Sun morn drive????

[TommyG]

I have 295/30/19 less than 200 miles ps2s up front and they are wrapped around the 19/10.5 I forged Revs from this Jan 09. The wheels look great on the car and for the 3100k I paid for a set of 19/20 I can't comlain too much. Don't know if anyone else has these wheels but the problem I have is with the valves. Sometimes just checking the air will make the little middle part get stuck and air will be spewing out until I get my key and try and tap the end of it until it seals up again. Kinda frustrating. Anyway I check all cold tires this am early before I head out for some viper therapy and get all to 29psi. I do a few spirited runs on the frontage road and hwy, it is like 7am and pretty dead on the roads. I grab a coffee and sit and admire my freshly washed car from Sat. I then head out to Boerne to scout some property for a client and then get back home, so in total maybe 1-1.5 hours of drive. I don't feel anything wierd at any time. I get out of car and notice my driver side front tire is flat. I check pressure and it is 8lbs from the 29 I set it at. I search the whole tire for a nail or anything that might show a breach. Nothing. I back the car up to further inspect and again nothing. I fill up the tire to 31.5 hot just to see how slow the leak is and try figure out how much time I was driving on a flat tire. I have a digital psi gauge and I plug it in the valve and hold it there to see if I can read the drop in psi but it holds for over a minute. I wait one hour and re check and the tire cools down and now it is like 31 and holding. I don't understand how it could have dropped 21 lbs in the course of 1-1.5 hours and now it is either holding or creeping down extremely slowly. The tire does not appear to have a ring around the side wall and I know what that looks like bc I did this last year to my Cayeene Turbo on a 20 inch wheel and a Mich Diamaris and drove it for hours not knowing it was flat and had to replace the tire. My only guess is I have a faulty valve stem or leak in tire that gets worse when the tire is spinning? The tires were on my car for a very short time 100-200 miles then I put my stock wheels with my Khumos for some drag strip and road course fun and these I forged wheels and tires sat in storage stacked for a couple of months. Prior to putting on I checked cold temp and they held well for that time at 27 psi. Any thoughts form anyone that has had this kind of occurance? Only good news is I bought the warranty from discount tire so if it was a road hazard I new I would be covered but a leak? I don't know if this is tire or wheel related?

Tom

 

[dave6666]

What you just wrote but much easier on the eyes.


I have 295/30/19 less than 200 miles ps2s up front and they are wrapped around the 19/10.5 I forged Revs from this Jan 09. The wheels look great on the car and for the 3100k I paid for a set of 19/20 I can't comlain too much. Don't know if anyone else has these wheels but the problem I have is with the valves. Sometimes just checking the air will make the little middle part get stuck and air will be spewing out until I get my key and try and tap the end of it until it seals up again.

Kinda frustrating.

Anyway I check all cold tires this am early before I head out for some viper therapy and get all to 29psi. I do a few spirited runs on the frontage road and hwy, it is like 7am and pretty dead on the roads. I grab a coffee and sit and admire my freshly washed car from Sat. I then head out to Boerne to scout some property for a client and then get back home, so in total maybe 1-1.5 hours of drive.

I don't feel anything wierd at any time. I get out of car and notice my driver side front tire is flat. I check pressure and it is 8lbs from the 29 I set it at. I search the whole tire for a nail or anything that might show a breach. Nothing.

I back the car up to further inspect and again nothing. I fill up the tire to 31.5 hot just to see how slow the leak is and try figure out how much time I was driving on a flat tire. I have a digital psi gauge and I plug it in the valve and hold it there to see if I can read the drop in psi but it holds for over a minute. I wait one hour and re check and the tire cools down and now it is like 31 and holding.

I don't understand how it could have dropped 21 lbs in the course of 1-1.5 hours and now it is either holding or creeping down extremely slowly. The tire does not appear to have a ring around the side wall and I know what that looks like bc I did this last year to my Cayeene Turbo on a 20 inch wheel and a Mich Diamaris and drove it for hours not knowing it was flat and had to replace the tire. My only guess is I have a faulty valve stem or leak in tire that gets worse when the tire is spinning?

The tires were on my car for a very short time 100-200 miles then I put my stock wheels with my Khumos for some drag strip and road course fun and these I forged wheels and tires sat in storage stacked for a couple of months. Prior to putting on I checked cold temp and they held well for that time at 27 psi.

Any thoughts form anyone that has had this kind of occurance?

Only good news is I bought the warranty from discount tire so if it was a road hazard I new I would be covered but a leak? I don't know if this is tire or wheel related?

Tom

 

[dave6666]

Oh yeah... More constructively to your issue at hand... Replace the valve core and ensure you have a metal valve cap with the gasket in it. Discount Tire will probably do that for free just to see your car again.

 

[PhoenixGTS]

Dave6666 = grumpy old man!

 

[TommyG]

Dave6666 = grumpy old man!

But at least out of 40 views he threw himself out there and game me some advice and a grammer lession.

 

[TommyG]

Oh yeah... More constructively to your issue at hand... Replace the valve core and ensure you have a metal valve cap with the gasket in it. Discount Tire will probably do that for free just to see your car again.

Frankly, I am terrified to do this bc last time I had to replace the valve core on a wheel with a 3" lip with Discount Tire it was a big mess. First off I forged sent us a half dozen valve stems that were for the wrong wheel so the valve extended out way to far and did not mount up to duplicate/match the rivets.

They send us a second batch for the right lip size but none of them fit the way they should to seal the air from comming out. I finally opt to use the only one out of 6 that would fit the proper way of the deeper lip first shipment.

Frustrating, and now I have a valve that sticks out farther than it should and only one out of 8 or 9 actually fit. The other option was to send the entire wheel to Iforged.

Did not want to do this. Thanks for the advice though

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

No, not the entire valve stem, just the core. The little tip that gets depressed to let air out unscrews. (Then lots of air will come out.) But this part has the soft material to make the air seal, and it has the spring to push the stem into the closed position.

Repairing a tubeless tyre using a Bead Breaker

 

[dave6666]

Yes... Just the valve CORE. Not the valve STEM. Tom's link shows the parts pretty well. They don't have to take the wheel off the car or anything. Just have to be near an air hose to fill her back up when done.

I'm really surprised with all of the problems you had with iForged and the valve stems fitting properly. That seems like such a simple thing to get right, for a company with a pretty good reputation for not doing stoopid stuff. I know my iForged wheels were done correctly in that regard.

 

[jk]

No, not the entire valve stem, just the core. The little tip that gets depressed to let air out unscrews. (Then lots of air will come out.) But this part has the soft material to make the air seal, and it has the spring to push the stem into the closed position.

Repairing a tubeless tyre using a Bead Breaker

I like the "exploding method" to seat the bead on a tire.

 

[TommyG]

No, not the entire valve stem, just the core. The little tip that gets depressed to let air out unscrews. (Then lots of air will come out.) But this part has the soft material to make the air seal, and it has the spring to push the stem into the closed position.

Repairing a tubeless tyre using a Bead Breaker

New lesson for me. I think it worked. Thanks.

Tom

 

[TommyG]

Yes... Just the valve CORE. Not the valve STEM. Tom's link shows the parts pretty well. They don't have to take the wheel off the car or anything. Just have to be near an air hose to fill her back up when done.

I'm really surprised with all of the problems you had with iForged and the valve stems fitting properly. That seems like such a simple thing to get right, for a company with a pretty good reputation for not doing stoopid stuff. I know my iForged wheels were done correctly in that regard.

Perfect! Thanks, I did not know what a valve core was until today. Thought if one went bad you had to replace the whole stem. Seems to be holding after a trip to DT today.

Tom

 

[TommyG]

So I go through the same routine as Sun, check pressure on all four but this time bump all to 30psi. Go for a nice drive and pull into gas station about one hour into it. While sitting still for a day and a half the pressure held, but when I got out of the car sure enough the tire looked low.

It reads 17psi. I fill her to 31 and leave the extention do hicky on and seal it with the cap. At home I pull the wheel/tire off and take to DT. Lucky me they were pretty slow today at that time. They remove the extention fill up tire to max and dunk tire/wheel to check for bubbles and nothing. I explain to Chuck the mgr that it seems to loose the most when spinning on road. I also explain that sometimes the core will seep out air after I remove the extender.

He tells me he will change the core. News to me that this could be done. Pops the old one out and puts the new one in. Fills tire and dunks it again and no bubbles.

I go for another little drive and come home and it reads 31 bc its hot. So I am hoping this was the end of my tricky flat tire issues for a while.

Thanks for the help.


Tom