Valve stem question

[TexasTonka]

Well this is one part I really never thought about, valve stems. I got the PSS tires on OEM 6 spoke wheels on my GTS Twin Turbo... looked close at my wheels a week or so after mounting the tires at a local shop and they put in what looks like commercial truck valve stems!

Okay so I was going to change them out at ART and throw in Nitrogen at the same time... well ART closed up before we could get a few things done. ART was a fantastic shop and one of the only I could trust, but that is another story. So anyway I am now on a quest for some good valve stems to fit in my OEM 6 spokes.

As most of my driving is 'spirited' back roads driving and I am putting down between 800-900 rwhp in the Texas 100+ heat, I want to go with a high temp race style valve stem.

I have looked around and it looks like Lonagacre makes a good brass Shorty ‘bolt in’ style and so does All Star performance. Gorilla is a big name and makes a bolt in as well but cannot find too many trustworthy reviews on it.

What type of valve stems are the ACR-X running? I don't have tire sensors so the OEM ACR won't work for me.

Any comments or reviews on a good high temp race valve stem? Do I want pull through or bolt in? On bolt in do you use thread locker?

This little part has teh entire car depending on it, so I would like to have the best...

 

[TrackAire]

Although a quality valve stem is important, there are different valve cores available. Make sure you only use high temp units (usually have a red band around the belly of the valve core)....I'm guessing it's made of silicone or some high temp material.

I don't think you can get a higher performance valve stem than all metal, brass, etc...it's the internals that matter at that point. I'm not a fan of the aluminum TPSM valve stems only because they tend to corrode and non plastic valve caps can seize on them and you won't be able to remove them without destroying the TPSM.

Cheers,
George

 

[Tail lights]

Interestingly enough, all ACRX's came with defective tire stems. Call Tom Fransis at viper headquarters, he should be able to help you.

 

[345s-bspinnin]

"ART closed up...."

Has ART in Buda closed its doors? Or am I misreading?

 

[GTS Dean]

That's what we've been hearing for about the last week or two. I hope it isn't another case of making a small fortune in racing by starting with a large one and going racing.

 

[Paul Hawker]

Since you are focused on the valve stems, be sure to use valve stem caps with rubber O rings to seal the caps.

At high speed events, the valve spring can be depressed by centrifugal force, and slowly allow pressure to bleed out. Cap will keep pressure from leaking.

 

[Viperless]

Since you are focused on the valve stems, be sure to use valve stem caps with rubber O rings to seal the caps.

At high speed events, the valve spring can be depressed by centrifugal force, and slowly allow pressure to bleed out. Cap will keep pressure from leaking.

That's what I've always done/heard but every race car I checked during the NARRA event at Road America did not have caps.

 

[TexasTonka]

"ART closed up...."

Has ART in Buda closed its doors? Or am I misreading?

Yup closed up and moved out. One less shop full of Viper experts. Wherever Chris Pharr and David Weaver pop up I will be taking my car to that shop! ART was just a name Chris and David were the heart and soul.

 

[TexasTonka]

Okay so it looks like the Longacre valve stems are the way to go. Brass stem with high heat seals and cores. Brass stems will look a bit funky on the polished six spokes but rather have function over looks.

 

[GTS Dean]

Chrome 'em!

 

[Bird325]

Yup closed up and moved out. One less shop full of Viper experts. Wherever Chris Pharr and David Weaver pop up I will be taking my car to that shop! ART was just a name Chris and David were the heart and soul.

ART told me at the Roundup that they were no longer working on normal customer cars and were only doing RACE vehicles. They worked on my car in the past and would not be doing it any more. That was back in the Spring of this year. Guess they moved on to a less expensive shop to continue working on their kick a## Texas Mile car.

 

[TexasTonka]

ART told me at the Roundup that they were no longer working on normal customer cars and were only doing RACE vehicles. They worked on my car in the past and would not be doing it any more. That was back in the Spring of this year. Guess they moved on to a less expensive shop to continue working on their kick a## Texas Mile car.

Bird. Yes that is what everyone was told. I was a loyal customer who promoted their business at every event and even held an ART Appreciation Day for them within our region. Everyone was told they were moving to a new shop by Harris Hill to concentrate on racing during the season and work on select customers cars in off season. What ended up happening the week after the Round Up is almost all employees were fired, less Pharr and Weaver, and the building went up for sale. I must admit Pharr did do what he could to get my unfinished car and truck back to the shop to complete before the operation quit completely. Unfortunately the shop was gutted and moved before that could happen. ART did not move to Harris Hill. It moved to Colorado with Todd. If they keep racing after this year or not is yet to be seen. Word on the street is Pharr moved to Colorado with it and Weaver is still safe here at home in Texas. Was a great shop and I hate to see it leave, especially they way it did. If it was public knowledge up front that they were leaving for Colorado etc... you better believe this region would have thrown one hell of a good bye party for every thing they did for us. Weaver is still here so I am waiting and crossing my fingers he opens or joins a shop in the same area so I can take my projects there. Like I said before ART was just a name, it was Weaver and Pharr who churned out the Viper magic in the place.

 

[Luke@tirerack]

we carry a universal metal valve stem that would work .. .they are $3.00 each give me a call if you need them