Viper Trans questions

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Greg,the stock transmission in my 97 Viper GTS is a Borg Warner T-56. The stock ratios are as follows: First 2.66, Second 1.78, Third 1.30, Fourth 1.00, Fith 0.74, sixth 0.50, and revurse 2.90. The stock rear end is a Dana (Model 44) with a 3.07 final drive. All rear axles are equipped with a TRAC-LOC (clutch type) limited slip differential. Don't know about the output shaft. Hope this helps.
 
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For those of you who wonder what the heck I'm babbling, I wrote this reply to John B.....

No personal relation to the 101 Airborne. I have always admired this war story though. Two years ago, I put "NUTS" on my Vipers license plate. I would tell people it was my little "rub" for the German manufactures who were trying to whip up on the Vipers in international racing, and then would tell the heroic war story. Now it is my intent, when posting "NUTS" to make a quiet protest about how DB has treated us (i.e.: Chrysler) in the ongoing merger mayhem. Even though surrounded, we must fight on, if only in sprit! Corny? maybe.
 

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Don't think you need to make it stronger..........
I have 68,000 miles on mine with 107 Nitrous bottles
through it. Transmission handles my 685 RWHP just fine.
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by gregc:
Thanks for the information, and for the history lesson! I suspect it makes most people think of another meaning, but...

I did some checking - the 'old' Mopars used a 1" dia. 23 spline input shaft, and the Viper T56 uses a traditional GM (!) 1-1/8" 26 spline shaft. I can probably use a GM disc with a Mopar pressure plate.

So no one knows any tricks on how to make a T56 stronger?

Thanks,

Greg

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Greg --

Your right-on about the input shaft for the T56 Viper trans.....
It is GM 1-1/8". Personally, I wouldn't worry about building the trans stronger.

I have seen most commonly the INPUT SHAFT GEAR and the CLUSTER GEAR fail. The teeth on the input shaft and the cluster gear take a good amount of impact from high torque, hard launching and sticky tires. When they do fail, the teeth begin to deform each other until they begin to break off. The good thing about this, there are two magnets (not accessible without removing the tail shaft housing) in the bottom of the trans that catch the teeth and shrapnel from getting lodged in other parts of the unit. You can replace the input shaft without disassembling the whole unit if just the splines are damaged or pilot bearing damaged the shaft by removing the housing cover. But, if the teeth are damaged a complete disassembly is required.

It's not the horsepower that is ******* the transmission, it's they way you treat it that will dictate the life of it.
If you do put slicks on your cuda, try to avoid extremely HIGH RPM launches, especially on a heavy car. High torque kills the transmission usually from the launch, up top, as the car is moving the flywheel and other parts can absorb some of the shock. Also, on a high horsepower or heavy-car application, try to refrain from power-shifting and while just cruising, don't rest your hand on the shifter knob which causes more preload and also wears the shift forks.

Most importantly, if you run the car hard, check the fluid level often, the fluid can escape through front and rear main seals and the vent. Use only the recommended fluid, other fluids may not offer protection needed and can boil out at lower temperatures. I've seen many transmissions meet an early retirement from just a lack of fluid.

Good luck,
Doug Levin
 

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