Water/**** systems

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Sorry to highjack the thread but is there any benefit to running W/M with a non FI car?

Also what are the downsides excluding running out of w/m. Does the spray slowly cause some kind of build up in the engine over time.
Does it just spray and evaporate? I am not familar with w/m so any insight to neg. effects are appreciated.

Knight viper, who in MD/VA did you have install yours or did you do it yourself?
Burnt answered most of these well, but here some of my thoughts.

If your tune is at the very edge of detonation with w/m, then running no injection will put you over it.
The w/m actually cleans you motor on the inside. No harmful side-effects, only nice clean parts when you open it up. Unless you are injecting excessive amounts, no harm can be done. The injectors spray a fine mist that evaporates before it gets to the combustion camber.
Here is a popular site that explains a lot:
RSR Water Injection Calculator
 
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i just never liked the cheesy water lines on some setups. and the mixing of the **** is BS.

its gotta be hard to get the same percentage everytime. id think that that would make a difference in the tune and at times be more likely to detonate. just my opinion
What do you mean by cheesy?
The ss braided hoses are available if you don't like the nylon tubing.
The number of lines is the same as a nitrous setup, and I know you have one of those :headbang:

The percentage of the fluids is not as critical as you think. I would say the relative humidity and air temp would have a greater impact on detonation than your mixture. Most people get it pretty close, as Burnt just described.
 

Burntrubber

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it would be nice to have an intercooler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Botlfed I will see if I can get the car taken aprt and some pics of the mounted motor
 

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As mentioned, it is almost impossible to screw up a 50/50 mix, lol.:omg: If you put in a gallon of water, you put in a gallon of methanol, etc. I would never run "windshield washer" mix as I feel there would be too many variables in manufacture, **** content, etc. I use distilled water and mix with straight methanol (which is readily available in my area at performance shops).

Also, with the 10 pound pulley I get 11 pounds of boost only in the upper rpms and only at WOT. I attribute that to a little boost creep due to the stock heads. The creep is very slight and comes on very gradually so it is not an issue.:2tu:

I also have the green "spraying" indicator light which I have installed between my boost gauge and A/F gauge on the A-pillar.
 

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i always assumed the difference in the quality of the **** you buy would make a difference. im obviously wrong.

i dont like the cheesy nylon tubing and fittings. id DEFINITELY go with SS. that would be a nice setup in my opinion.
 

Red Snake

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i always assumed the difference in the quality of the **** you buy would make a difference. im obviously wrong.

i dont like the cheesy nylon tubing and fittings. id DEFINITELY go with SS. that would be a nice setup in my opinion.

Yes it definitely would. I'd love to see one made up with SS as well. :2tu:
 

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since you cant see the tubing i never had a concern of having SS lines. but, if i keep the car, I am going to go over the whole thing when i do the fuel system and SS lines for fuel and W/M
 

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heat and plastic dont go too well together for the most part. and on a very important part like this tubing, it should be important to you.
 
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Mine will be just the nylon tubing but the line running into the engine bay will be protected with something, I'm not sure yet. Maybe wire loom or just slip it into some rubber fuel hose.
Nylon is pretty abrasion resistant and even heat resistant as long as it does not touch the exhaust.
 

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mine melted when it touched the exhaust...if you get a leak just look for a white puddle in your garage. I fixed it with palstic tie-downs and now run it along the frame!...just get irrigation hose at home depot, its cheap and effective. thats the beauty of the wideband in cockpit, a quick glance over and you'll know if its working. heck 2 nights ago after testing my new check valve I was at 10.3...I may lean it up for a few extra hp!
botlfed, I will try and get you some pics tomorrow!
 
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I also have a WB gauge in my car (where the volt gauge is)

don't lean it out too much, **** requires a richer mixture for best power
 

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try alkycontrol.com, this is what I run on my TT car, julio (i think is the guys name), he really knows his W/M

I also heat shielded the W/M (& fuel lines) to insure they weren't absorbing a lot of heat while traveling to/from the engine bay.
 

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Alcohol/**** here

In my Z06 I was running the highest end progressive system that alcoholinjectionsystems.com has. Go there check them out, I also upgraded to all the A/N lines and fittings. Talk to Rodney, really good guy to deal with. I think the alcohol/**** systems are a great insurance policy for your engine. I wouldn't do it, but it is possible to run a 200 shot without retarding your timing while running alcohol/****. I apologize, I didn't read the whole thread, kinda long when I got to it but wanted to let you know about a good system. It is the 1.5 gallon trunk mount progressive system. You can't beat these systems for the protection they provide on your engine. Also, when using premium from the pump, while you are spraying alcohol/**** your octane rating is just over the rating of race fuel.

A couple of pics

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The spray nozzles (Dual) are on the C5Z's air bridge, right before entry of the Throttle body
 
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OK, just got my parts from Coolingmist today.
All parts look to be good quality. The 2qt tank looks smaller than I expected. I'm deciding whether or not to use the stock washer fluid tank.
Can't wait to get started on it next week :D

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I was just flipping through Summit and saw that AEM also has a version of Water/**** injection. They list a 5 gallon tank seperately if anyone is interested. I can't remember the price.
 
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1 and 2 gal tanks are available through most dealers. I should have went with a 1gal., I just didn't want to go too big. With 2 10# bottles in the trunk there isn't room for too much else ;)

If I don't use the stock washer bottle, I may order a 1gal to mount in the trunk.
 
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I got a question for you guys that have the Roe kit,
is there a checkvalve between the pump and the nozzles?
is it needed?
 

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No check valve came with my Roe kit. Also - if you go by the Roe instructions- which I did- you install the primer switch next to the pump in the wheel well. I knew it was ******** when i was installing it but I didn't want to start cutting and splicing wires at the time. Now there is no access to the primer switch without taking the wheel off and the liner out.
 
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So Roe wants you to put the pump in the wheel well? where? pics please

I got a check valve with my kit (not the Roe kit). Coolingmist says the pump has a checkvalve but that its not very strong. Not sure what that means.

I'll put a switch in the engine bay so I can watch the nozzles for testing flow and regular maintenance.
 
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I measured the capacity of the stock washer fluid tank and its only 1.5qts.
I don't think that is enough so I'm looking at mounting a tank in the trunk.
anyone have pics of their 2.5gal tank mounted in the trunk?
 

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i have a check valve with my roe kit.

yes pump goes in the wheel well...if i have time this weekend i will take off the wheel.
 

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I measured the capacity of the stock washer fluid tank and its only 1.5qts.
I don't think that is enough so I'm looking at mounting a tank in the trunk.
anyone have pics of their 2.5gal tank mounted in the trunk?


i sent you these pics i thought:dunno:
 
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ha ha, yep your right, I forgot :smirk:

here is the tank

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and here is the Roe button mounted under the car

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