What else do I REALLY need on a Paxton setup?

spmorgan

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So I'm getting a Paxton setup installed, and I wanted to get some advice on what I should really do above and beyond the Paxton. It is being installed on a 2003 SRT.

I was thinking that I would do: Paxton, larger heat exchanger, plugs, 170 thermo, remove one set of cats, and put in a new exhaust (cause I want one anyway). What else should I be considering for reliability? I do take my car to do drivers ed events couple of months.

Shawn
 
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spmorgan

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I already have. Don't have any idea how long it takes to get my member ID, but it is running about 2/3 weeks now.

Shawn
 
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spmorgan

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I've been told the 2003 fuel system is actually the best as they changed it in later versions, and that you don't need anything else on the 2003 for a stock tune. No?

Shawn
 

Paul Hawker

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Think you will be really happy with that set up. (assuming you will be getting the complete Paxton kit with additional booster pumps etc.)

Best advice is to have a fresh set of tires on the car, fresh brake fluid and a big smile on your face.
 

plumcrazy

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confirm with the big name tuners on that. i agree with a stock tune but the exhaust mods might change that. check to be safe though.

i remember reading recently where DLM said on the late gen2's an exhaust mod "might" be tough for the stock paxton fuel setup.

EDIT:: I found his quote, but this is for a 2000, not gen3. but you might wanna confirm.

Although the Paxton kit was designed to be used on a "stock" 2000 engine. Once you start adding exhaust and other mods in addition to the Paxton unit the factory fuel system runs lean and needs attention.
 

slither

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Not trying to "plug" any particular vendors, but since you mentioned reliability, I highly recommend replacing the stock damper with an ATI unit (or equal) and using the Roe crank pinning kit (or equal). The stock damper is cast iron and a POS in my opinion. The crank pinning kit that comes with the Paxton uses 1/8" pins while the Roe kit uses 1/4" rolled steel pins. The damper is "the" mechanical connection between the crankshaft and the front accessory drive system. When installing the Paxton, there is more stress placed on the damper as the force required to drive the blower adds to the total mechanical load placed on the damper and the connection between the damper and the crankshaft snout. The ATI unit is 2 piece with a billet steel adapter that mounts to the crankshaft snout. If you put the stock damper and the ATI damper next to each other it's pretty obvious that the ATI unit is much stronger than the stock unit. Not cheap but worth every penny.
 

plumcrazy

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slither had good info there. the roe pin kit is MUCH better but DLM in davie, FL can key your crank while the engine is still in the car. keying is always the best.
 

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ViperGeorge

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Get DC Performance to reflash your PCM for the 170 thermostat, change the WOT timer, and richen it up to make sure the A/F is below 12:1 preferably about 11.5:1 across the RPM band.
 
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spmorgan

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My tuner is suggesting installing King Connecting Rod Bearings...which the bearings aren't expensive but $400 in labor. Is this a good idea? He says these bearings are known for failing.

Shawn
 

HI-NOS-Viper

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Yes the gears and a qualife. if you hook up from a dig stock could break. gives you more peace of mind. that way you can put racing tires on it, hook and not have to worry.
 
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