what type of oil to use?

venom1

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changing my oil and the owners manual says Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w 30, is that what I should use or is there a better recomendation. Im using k&n oil filter from Previous post:) thanks Venom1 2000gts
 

Randy

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Are you also asking which viscosity to use? I know a lot of people use Mobil-1 15W-50.
 

Ron

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You'll get 15 different opinions. Dodge recommendation works great and is verified by many positive used oil analysis (UOA).
 

Viper X

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Mobil 1 10w30 in the GTS - bone stock. Mobil 1 15w50 in the SRT-10 - Paxton supercharged.

Use the Mopar filter too.
 

Ron

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From everything I've read, the Mobil 1 and K&N OIL (not air) filters are better than MOPAR. For the price they charge, they better be.
 

JPL

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I use a K&N oil filter, I heard nothing but good thing about them, and they come with an one inch nut welded to the top, helps with removal.
 

Anaconda

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Should I be using 10W30 down here in sunny Florida? It's getting hotter outside....

Should I go to a thinner/thicker oil or just stay with 10W30 (I'll use Mobil One, of course).
 

FlyBryViper

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Hey guys, I have been a Mobil 1 man for over 30 years. But this new Double Ester Motul 300 V Motorsport is something else. No dyno figures yet, but I swear it pulls harder, it maintains higher oil pressure under racing conditions, and easier starting when cold! This is the sweetest smelling oil I have ever used - not that smell means a darn thing!
 

GTS Bruce

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If I remember correctly Amsoil is a diester and a diester is the best oil formulation molecule.Be careful.Race oils are made to be used and dumped.Long on antiwear and little or no detergent. GTS Bruce
 

Motul Bob

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No need to worry with Motul 300V. Full additive package which includes detergents and dispersants. Safe for the street, but really shines at the track. JGarrett ran 4 Viper events and several miles in between, and the oil analysis looked very good. The on board telemetry shows that the engine runs cooler, and oil temps are very safe.
BTW, I believe Amsoil is a blend of group 4 and esters. Motul is 100% ester based synthetic, with the latest double-ester technology; that is a combination of polyol ester and complex ester.
 

GTS Dean

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MOBIL 1 15w50 and MOBIL 1 oil filters is all I use every 6 months. 15w50 especially in the south or track running.

I hate to break it to you this way, but you are wasting a huge amount of money on premium synthetic oil. Since I've had my GTS, I've averaged an oil change only slightly more than once a year with 26k miles on the clock. With all the equipment investment in my heavy construction company, we sample and test oil constantly. When I was tracking my car heavily a few years back, (5+ weekends a year) oil tests showed that fuel dilution began to show up late in the season. This is to be expected because of blowby and high injector duty cycle. I also average about 1 qt. of consumption for every 5-600 track miles, but that replacement makes up for some of the dilution.

In October of '03, I had my car in the dealer for a rear main seal replacement. They filled it with Mobil 1 10W-30. I drove it only about 500 miles in the next 15 months, but figured it was about time for a change due to oxidation. I bought a new filter and some 15W-50 and pulled a sample. The test came back perfect, so I elected to leave it in until probably around June when the temps are consistently in the 90's.
 

STUGOTS

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MOBIL 1 15w50 and MOBIL 1 oil filters is all I use every 6 months. 15w50 especially in the south or track running.

I hate to break it to you this way, but you are wasting a huge amount of money on premium synthetic oil. Since I've had my GTS, I've averaged an oil change only slightly more than once a year with 26k miles on the clock. With all the equipment investment in my heavy construction company, we sample and test oil constantly. When I was tracking my car heavily a few years back, (5+ weekends a year) oil tests showed that fuel dilution began to show up late in the season. This is to be expected because of blowby and high injector duty cycle. I also average about 1 qt. of consumption for every 5-600 track miles, but that replacement makes up for some of the dilution.

In October of '03, I had my car in the dealer for a rear main seal replacement. They filled it with Mobil 1 10W-30. I drove it only about 500 miles in the next 15 months, but figured it was about time for a change due to oxidation. I bought a new filter and some 15W-50 and pulled a sample. The test came back perfect, so I elected to leave it in until probably around June when the temps are consistently in the 90's.


Really????

Thanks alot Dean thats some good info to know.

Now do you think its the viper running more (for lack of a better term) "clean" or do you think this would apply to all cars??
 

GTS Dean

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A buddy of mine with a twin-turbo Viper says his oil gets dark very quickly, but he also does a lot of daily in-town driving. We haven't sampled his yet, but will begin monitoring it soon. Obviously, one size doesn't fit all. But based on my experience, modest power adders on a reasonably well maintained N/A Viper shouldn't wear out the oil faster than once a year. I don't see why you couldn't use those service intervals more generally.

Higher specific power outputs (hp/ci), smaller bearing surfaces and higher revs put more heat loading on the lubricant. Poor ring seal puts contaminants into the oil, but most current oils have a very robust additive package to minimize harmful effects.

As for the tranny and diff, I service mine quite regularly. They don't cool well and there isn't much fluid volume.

I'm sure we'll hear from Tom Hayden soon on this one...
 

Tom F&L GoR

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There are lots of good oils. Few can honestly say they "increase" power, mostly oils provide "protection." The protection comes from the additives, and not from the base oil. Sorry, but Group IV, PAO, ester, diester, etc help determine the lowest temperature at which it will flow (and we're comparing -30F to -40F) and to some degree, the high temperature oxidation resistance, but the additives are what deliver the anti-wear, detergents, dispersants, corrosion protection, multi-grade capability, and friction modification. The base oil is a nice carrier for the stuff you eventually want to flush out.

Almost all diesel oil is mineral oil, but has 2X to 3X the additives that passenger oils do. Over the road trucks also go 40,000 to 100,000 miles on oil drains. (And yes, they have 8 to 10 gallon sumps.)

For instance, the most common reason an oil gets dark quickly is because the dispersants pick up "dirt" and start to carry it around. Beware of an oil that doesn't turn dark.

Another fun fact is that "like dissolves like." Oxidation and other "dirt" from fuel contamination is much more like a mineral oil in composition that the synthetic base oil. Therefore a mineral oil will help clean and carry away deposits better than synthetics. Of course, this is in the absence of additives, but again it shows the importance of additives over base oils.

In the end, all oils have additives, and eventually they get used up. The trick is to change your oil before they get used up. Once you add power adders, you may wonder what to do... I suggest you change your oil every 250 gallons of fuel consumed. Why?

5000 miles at 20 MPG = 250 gallons.

Plug in your own numbers if you like, but the blowby, fuel dilution, stress, heat, etc, are pretty much related to how much fuel you use.
 

Motul Bob

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All oils are not created equal.
Group I= mineral based
Group II= mineral based
Group III= hydrocracked or hydroformed
Group IV= PAO (polyalphaolefin)
Group V= esters

Groups I&II are direct refined crude.
Groups III&IV are synthesised refined crude.
Group V is a combination of fatty acid (like coconut oil)and alchohol for the base stock.
Castrol Syntec is a example of Group III
Mobil 1 is a example of Group IV
Motul 300V is a example of pure Group V.
Ester technology was developed originally for aviation industry, due to the high heat in the hot section of turbine engines. There are thousands of different combinations of esters. Esters have polar molecules, which means they are naturally attracted to metal, giving maximum film strength. The viscosity of oil is what determines it's resistance to flow at different ambient temps. The advantage of esters is it's ability to stay in proper grade viscosity under high heat and high shear loads. Think of it like this, if you want to cook french fries and try to used butter, it will burn; but if you use vegetable oil it will work. This is because the veggie oil can be heated to a much higher temp with without burning. This is the same with group III&IV oils verse esters. When group IV oils are exposed to very high temps in your engines (especially turbos) it will begin to break down, change viscosity and leave deposits. Motul engineers say that 300V will flow at 360 degrees oil temp- of course your engine will be coming apart by then.
There is also difference in the quality of additive packages. Additives include detergents to keep internals clean- especially the ring land area. Dispersants to carry the dirt that is too small for the filter to catch, and viscosity index improvers, which expand and act like spaghetti or springs to keep the oil in the proper grade at full operating temps. Most street oils are tested at 0 degress celcius and 100 degrees celcius to verify viscosity. The HTHS test (high temp-high shear) requires the oil to be tested at 150 degrees celcius. Motul also tests 300V in the ASTM 92 test, which is where the oil is sprayed through a Bosch fuel injector 30 cycles to see if it can be sheared- break down.
Dodge was smart in selecting Mobil 1 as a good readily available oil for the Viper. The issue becomes application. If you modify the engine, do track days, or have failures that cause overheat, Motul 300V is that extra insurance.
The driver will see consistent oil pressure, smoother engine, and more power.
Sorry about the rant!
 

Tom F&L GoR

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>All oils are not created equal.<
I didn't say that, I said that most of the performance of an oil comes from the additives.

>Groups III&IV are synthesised refined crude.<
Group III is very highly refined from crude oil, but Group IV is "synthesized" and is represented by polyalphaolefins.

You can get Group III and Group IV mixed up because they have very similar properties. Castrol was challenged by Mobil when Castrol claimed their Group III was a "synthetic." Castrol prevailed and so both Group III and IV are "synthetic."

>Ester technology was developed originally for aviation industry, due to the high heat in the hot section of turbine engines.<
Yes and because of their application, the amount of additives allowed was close to zero. So the base oil had to be engineered to have additional properties. But I still wouldn't put it (without additives) in an engine.

>Esters have polar molecules, which means they are naturally attracted to metal, giving maximum film strength.<
I think Quaker or someone used this as technical justification for claiming their oils had "liquid ball bearings" and they lost the advertising challenge.

>The advantage of esters is it's ability to stay in proper grade viscosity under high heat and high shear loads. <
Again, without additives this may be more true with esters than mineral oils. But there are viscosity modifier additives that provide this property to any base oil, even if it's a mineral oil...

>When group IV oils are exposed to very high temps in your engines (especially turbos) it will begin to break down, change viscosity and leave deposits.<
So when people use Mobil 1 (group IV) in turbo engines (let's pick Champ Car Cosworth engines; 800 hp from 2.65L) it breaks down? bzzzzttt.

>Motul engineers say that 300V will flow at 360 degrees oil temp- of course your engine will be coming apart by then.<
Thank you, I agree, and therefore this high temperature feature is not applicable or particularly useful. The low temperature properties of synthetics is similar; nice to have, but until you're at -30F, not particularly a point of differentiation. A 5W-xx is a 5W-xx no matter what base oil.

>There is also difference in the quality of additive packages. <
Ummm... OK.

>Most street oils are tested at 0 degress celcius and 100 degrees celcius to verify viscosity. <
*ALL* street oils are put into an SAE grade based on their kinematic viscosity at 40C (not 0C) and 100C. To "verify viscosity" is like "verify pressure." Yup, it has some.

>The HTHS test (high temp-high shear) requires the oil to be tested at 150 degrees celcius.<
Yes, and at a very high shear rate, too. The HTHS result is also used to put the oil in a certain SAE viscosity grade. But HTHS does not differentiate between base oils; an oil with any base oil can be tested and reach all the viscosity levels for all the SAE viscosity grades.

>Motul also tests 300V in the ASTM 92 test, which is where the oil is sprayed through a Bosch fuel injector 30 cycles to see if it can be sheared- break down.<
This is not an evaluation of the base oil at all. It evaluates the shear stability of viscosity modifier additive, the big spaghetti things to thicken the oil. (It's the additives that make a difference...)

>Dodge was smart in selecting Mobil 1 as a good readily available oil for the Viper.<
Dodge produced a specification that Mobil (and other oils) can meet with their products. Then Mobil entered into a marketing arrangement to use Vipers in Mobil advertising.

>The driver will see consistent oil pressure, smoother engine, and more power.<
Show us the "more power" results. More power than what other oil?

>Sorry about the rant! <
Sorry about the rant!
 

Motul Bob

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Tom,
No need to start an oil war. Just trying to clarify some facts. Group III&IV are both synthesised crude oil. They both start with mineral oil, and use different processes to achieve different relsults. Base stocks make a HUGE difference in the quality of the oil, and then the additives. There is a difference in thinking in additives for racing or performance oils. Motul uses a full addtitive package in 300V, so it is safe for the street. Some manufacturers may not, arguing that you need only oil in the bottle, and no additives.
Mobil 1 does produce a 0W30 racing oil that is not available to the general public. Motul 300V is the real deal- no look a like here. Do we really know that off the shelf Wal-Mart oil is being used in those high power cars?
The facts I stated about esters are facts, regardless of who produces them. There is just varying technology of the ester molecule.
As far as more power, we do have factory results, but I have seen HP gains over other brands. One of the V-Ten guys told me at the VRL final in Hallett, that he gained 38 RWHP over Mobil 1. Not too shabby.
Designing an oil is a balancing act. Todays oils must withstand higher heat, longer drain intervals, smaller capacities in the sump, and not damage sensors or catalysts.
I hope to keep this friendly.
 

GTS Dean

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>Motul engineers say that 300V will flow at 360 degrees oil temp- of course your engine will be coming apart by then.<

Thank you, I agree, and therefore this high temperature feature is not applicable or particularly useful. The low temperature properties of synthetics is similar; nice to have, but until you're at -30F, not particularly a point of differentiation. A 5W-xx is a 5W-xx no matter what base oil.

Just to bring things back to center here...

There are parts of the engine - like piston crowns, or blocked cooling passages in the head, or ancillary componentry - like turbos, that can locally heat the oil above its average operating temperature. This is what leads to a generalized thermal breakdown of the oil.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Bob,
Please check with your sources, because you are not making things clear. For instance, do a search on Group IV, please, because your facts aren't facts.

Group III is, for example, hydrocracked mineral oil and is made from crude oil. Group IV is polyalphaolefin, a monomer that is chained to make larger synthetic molecules. It's the definition of synthetic oil.

There are very very few finished engine oil performance requirements that can't be met with a mineral oil. Example: in a former life, I helped formulate engine oils for NASCAR and (then) CART teams and they won championships with non-synthetic oils based on "street car" formulations. You can't automatically use racing as substantiation for a high performance because those top levels only use oil for 500 miles.

Gaining 38 HP? Please explain whether that was same viscosity grade, same temperatures, etc, etc. That gain in efficiency is outside the bounds of technical possibility.

And thanks, Dean, the oil obviously does decompose over time due to heat. My point is that the performance of a mineral oil can be boosted via additives to mimic that of synthetic oils, even to the point of synthetic oil, but at a cost. Eventually to match performance, it's cheaper to go with the synthetic oil. And also, things like turbo bearings cook the oil on shutdown, and crown deposits can be fuel-related. These are the balancing details Bob (might be) referring to.
 

Motul Bob

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Tom, my sources are the Motul Tech department in Europe.
Group IV PAO is ethylene chemistry, it is the polymerization of olfeinic compounds. Where do they get this parafinic mineral base that they start to sythesise- from crude oil. Ultimately, that is where it all begins. There are even different grades of PAO's. Also, these base stocks cannot be extracted from just any barrel of crude. It depends on the area of the world, the minerals, plant life, dinosaurs, etc, in that region. There are even some esters that are developed from crude oil.
The word "synthetic" is what is tricky. Castrol makes Syntec, a semi-synthetic product, calls it synthetic, Mobil 1 sues and loses, so now anything goes with the term "synthetic". This can be deceiving to the consumer.
I was trying to keep it simple. Perhaps, I oversimplified a very complicated issues.
I support the Viper Days trackside at selected events. Come to an event, enjoy your day with your run group, and afterwards I will buy you your favorite beverage and we can discuss the finer points of lubrication. I am sincerely interested in your experience.
So, back to the original question. Oil selection should depend on application- in my opinion. Motul makes street oils that react as well or better than our competitors, but high performance requires a different application.
Thanks.
 

99 R/T 10

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I see an oil information war getting ready to begin, where's the popcorn!!


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Tom F&L GoR

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Bob, sorry, you're doing a lot of "almost" right... The world came to know Mobil 1 as a synthetic (pre-Castrol) and you're now saying that the stitching together of small molecules to make larger base oil molecules (which is call "synthesizing") shouldn't be called synthetic because of the variety of sources of raw materials. That could be deceiving to the reader.

Also, Castrol's Syntec that caused the "synthetic" debate was not "semi-synthetic" but was a Group III or III+ base oil. Mobil did not "sue," they challenged them in the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau. The *** is a self-regulating body of national advertisers. Castrol's base oil meets all the technical requirements that a synthetic does, but at 1/3 the price. Of course Mobil screamed, but not just for technical reasons.

Let's not oversimplify and assume all readers can't figure it out. If anyone doesn't understand, they can post a question. I think weeding through facts is useful and fruitful than weeding through claims of gaining 38 horsepower just due to an oil change.
 

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