Westxsrt10
Viper Owner
I used JB weld epoxy and applied it at room temp inside the house. It took 1 hour to set-up where it didn't run, I rotated the piece every 5 minutes to stop the sagging/ dripping.
Window Regulator -GEN 3/4 Archilles Heel
- Thread starter Art 138
- Start date
knock knock....
Anyone???
For our attorney/legal experienced members, if a certain product has excessive failures, ie majority percentage of owners experience its failure, such as 75% of all produced, can't the owners petition the company to force a recall?
Maybe even form a legal suit against the company to force a recall? Even class action?
Just a thought....
R
Anyone???
For our attorney/legal experienced members, if a certain product has excessive failures, ie majority percentage of owners experience its failure, such as 75% of all produced, can't the owners petition the company to force a recall?
Maybe even form a legal suit against the company to force a recall? Even class action?
Just a thought....
R
Chelseasnake
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i dont think that 75% of the regulators failed. i have had 15 vipers since 2006 and have not had a promlem, knock on wood. i do beleave that it is a weak link for a 100k car.
Chelseasnake said: " i have had 15 vipers since 2006 and have not had a promlem, knock on wood. i do beleave that it is a weak link for a 100k car."
While I am happy for you, I wonder if you kept any of said "15 vipers" long enough to experience the referenced window malfunction...assuming that all 15 were Gen III and Gen IV Vipers.
While I am happy for you, I wonder if you kept any of said "15 vipers" long enough to experience the referenced window malfunction...assuming that all 15 were Gen III and Gen IV Vipers.
Chelseasnake
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all were gen 3 and 4 and still have 5 in the garage.
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
Not enough repetitive stress cycles. Your opinion doesn't count.
Well, I can't speak for your circumstance, but it is hard for us (just Wife and I ) to drive 8 Vipers enough to flush out some of the "frequency of utilization issues"...realizing also that time/environmental conditions may also play a role this problem. Our 08 and 10 both seem OK so far...while 03 squeaks much of the time. Thanks for responding.
By the way, I consider this a SAFETY ISSUE...and not just an irritation. There is a lot of evolving info on drownings in the USA related to submerged vehicle entrapment.
By the way, I consider this a SAFETY ISSUE...and not just an irritation. There is a lot of evolving info on drownings in the USA related to submerged vehicle entrapment.
When vehicle sinks, people typically try to open the door, not roll down the electrically operated window.
We seem to have an ever increasing number of unprotected retention ponds showing up in the Greater Indy area...and a sharp increase of vehicles finding their way into them...often with sad results.
While there are indeed conflicting reports, our local fire departments have suggested that when a vehicle enters the water, one should unbuckle the seat belts, attempt to lower the window (yes, even the electric ones) and exit via the window ASAP. Of course, since accident circumstances vary, no one method works in all cases. Sadly, many people have no plan...and, they drown. At least with a plan, one has a chance.
Here's a little more info:
[h=1]From this ABC News link:[/h][h=1]"How to Escape From a Sinking Car[/h]
Nov. 25
According to insurance and automotive groups, more than 11,000 accidents occur each year in which a vehicle ends up in the water. An estimated 300 people drown each year in their car or truck, many of them needlessly.
Emergency personnel often conduct drills on water rescue techniques, but most experts say that if a driver wants to survive a crash into water, it is up to him or her to have a plan.
The most important thing is stay calm, according to Jason Morss, a firefighter/paramedic with the Fort Lauderdale Fire-Rescue Department in southern Florida.
"Staying calm absolutely is the number one priority," Morss says. "Once you lose that control you pretty much lose everything else."
In most water crashes, a vehicle will float for a period of time before the weight of the engine pulls the vehicle under. This should allow the driver enough time to calmly follow the procedures that can get him out alive.
"When things go wrong under water, there's not time for any second chances," says Morss. "You have one brief opportunity to get the seatbelt off and get either the window down or the door open and get out of the vehicle."
Following is the procedure Morss and other safety experts recommend following if your car should crash into water:
Unbuckle your seatbelt. The first thing to do after impact is unbuckle your seatbelt. Try to open a window. As the vehicle begins to fill with water, the first exit to try is through a window. Don't worry if the window is electric: experts say power windows usually keep working under water for some time. If the windshield shatters, use that as an exit. If you can't open a window, wait to open the door. When a vehicle enters the water, it can be hard to open the door because of the water pressure pushing on it from outside. If you can't open a window, calmly wait for the water level inside the car to rise so the pressure equalizes and you can open the door. Get a child out first. If you are with a child, get them out of their car seat and push them through the window or door. Then get out yourself and follow them to the surface."
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From the NYS DMV- Driver's Manual...found at: http://www.dmv.ny.gov/dmanual/chapter10-manual.htm
"GOING INTO WATER - A vehicle will usually float for a while, and you should have time to get out before it starts sinking. Unfasten your seat belt and escape through a window. Opening a door would cause water to rush in, and the car could overturn on top of you.
While there are indeed conflicting reports, our local fire departments have suggested that when a vehicle enters the water, one should unbuckle the seat belts, attempt to lower the window (yes, even the electric ones) and exit via the window ASAP. Of course, since accident circumstances vary, no one method works in all cases. Sadly, many people have no plan...and, they drown. At least with a plan, one has a chance.
Here's a little more info:
[h=1]From this ABC News link:[/h][h=1]"How to Escape From a Sinking Car[/h]
Nov. 25
According to insurance and automotive groups, more than 11,000 accidents occur each year in which a vehicle ends up in the water. An estimated 300 people drown each year in their car or truck, many of them needlessly.
Emergency personnel often conduct drills on water rescue techniques, but most experts say that if a driver wants to survive a crash into water, it is up to him or her to have a plan.
The most important thing is stay calm, according to Jason Morss, a firefighter/paramedic with the Fort Lauderdale Fire-Rescue Department in southern Florida.
"Staying calm absolutely is the number one priority," Morss says. "Once you lose that control you pretty much lose everything else."
In most water crashes, a vehicle will float for a period of time before the weight of the engine pulls the vehicle under. This should allow the driver enough time to calmly follow the procedures that can get him out alive.
"When things go wrong under water, there's not time for any second chances," says Morss. "You have one brief opportunity to get the seatbelt off and get either the window down or the door open and get out of the vehicle."
Following is the procedure Morss and other safety experts recommend following if your car should crash into water:
Unbuckle your seatbelt. The first thing to do after impact is unbuckle your seatbelt. Try to open a window. As the vehicle begins to fill with water, the first exit to try is through a window. Don't worry if the window is electric: experts say power windows usually keep working under water for some time. If the windshield shatters, use that as an exit. If you can't open a window, wait to open the door. When a vehicle enters the water, it can be hard to open the door because of the water pressure pushing on it from outside. If you can't open a window, calmly wait for the water level inside the car to rise so the pressure equalizes and you can open the door. Get a child out first. If you are with a child, get them out of their car seat and push them through the window or door. Then get out yourself and follow them to the surface."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the NYS DMV- Driver's Manual...found at: http://www.dmv.ny.gov/dmanual/chapter10-manual.htm
"GOING INTO WATER - A vehicle will usually float for a while, and you should have time to get out before it starts sinking. Unfasten your seat belt and escape through a window. Opening a door would cause water to rush in, and the car could overturn on top of you.
If the vehicle sinks before you can get out, climb into the rear seat. An air pocket may form there as the weight of the engine pulls the vehicle down nose first. When the vehicle settles, take a breath and escape through a window. As you rise, air pressure will build in your lungs. Let it out in small breaths through your nose or lips as you surface. Do not hold your breath tightly or try to blow air out; just allow the air to escape naturally."
Many feel the opening of the door mentioned above may or may not be possible due to the pressures exerted by the water.
Many feel the opening of the door mentioned above may or may not be possible due to the pressures exerted by the water.
lagalaxy13
Viper Owner
I have a 15k mile car, pass side is needed it's 2 second one that i know of and drivers side has mins left. So congrats on not having this issue, but the rest of us are not that lucky.
Does the window glass get caught on the front window run? (rubber triangle on the front). Our dealership has been covering the window runs if we see them folding on the glass (under warranty). I don't understand the repeat failures. The Ontario club has 120 members and I only know of three bad regulators in the last two years.
If I compare this to other issues that I see on Gen 3-4 vehicles the regulators seem to be a small percentage.
Some examples below of some common repairs at my dealership this summer (not including services or the complaints of axle noises that were fixed with a diff oil change)
(10) sets of gen 3-4 parking brakes pads
(15) sets of oil cooler lines for slow leaks at the connectors
(10) center dash rattle repairs
(3) gen 4 clutches
(5) door panel complants for the plastic trim on the top of the door (4 covered under warranty, two were out of basic and Chrysler covered them anyway)
(4) front window runs (for getting caught on the window while going up
(4) Front wheel bearings
(2) AC compressors
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JAY
Enthusiast
Westxsrt10
Viper Owner
The below bulletin is for a 2003 or 2004 but I found the same part hitting on some of the 2009 and 2010's. Also, the peice the "Center Defroster Duct" screws into can separate from the lower dash panel and rattle around in the dash over a hard bump. (it may need to be reglued and held in place overnight)
http://www.viperclub.org/howto/service-bulletins/pdf/ZB_2302703.pdf
You can find all the bulletins for your vehicle under the "How to" section on this website
We have Gen 3's with over 100'000 kms (62'000 miles) that are one owner cars
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lagalaxy13
Viper Owner
The drivers side has been under the roof 2 times in the 4 years I've had it. The passenger side never has. It broke without warning. Drivers side has made the noise since day one of me owning the car.
Yes, this was a very interesting list, thanks! Can you say more about the front wheel bearings? I'm assuming this is 4 cars and not 4 bearings into 1 car... Is this a common issue that we should / could do something proactive about?
Thanks,
Bryan
I don't understand, Are you saying the window hit the roof? I am not saying the regulators never fail, they do. After reading this thread and hearing complants about repeat failures it really makes me wonder if the replacement regulators were installed AND ADJUSTED correctly.
Check for play on all four wheels during an oil change, shake the wheel hard and make sure the wheel bearing center nut/axle shaft nut is tight. It was four seperate cars all where Gen 3 2003 to 2005. None of the vehicles made any noise, the problems were found during oil changes and check ups.
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bmw2nv2000
Enthusiast
Has anyone ever seen a regulator go bad but not actually break??? For example I have an 06 coupe and the drivers window will work perfect with no pops or crackling sounds. But almost every time I drive it the window will all the sudden stop responding when you press the down button to lower the window. It will always go up even it stops responding to the down button. And if the window is all the way up when it stops responding to the down command it also will no index down when you open the door. But when it acts up like this I can turn the key off then back on a couple times and mash the window button up and down a couple times and the window will respond to the down button again.
Oh I have never once had it act up when the car is just in the garage and I open and close the door many times the window always drops to let me in its only after you drive it for a little while and even then ive had it go for a fewdrives and never stop working
Ive replaced the body control module the window switches and checked my grounds but no luck. So has anyone ever seen a regulator go bad like this but didn't actually break? The motor has 5 wires going into it and I know it has what they call a hall switch inside it so I'm wonderingif that switch could be my problem?
Anyone????
Oh I have never once had it act up when the car is just in the garage and I open and close the door many times the window always drops to let me in its only after you drive it for a little while and even then ive had it go for a fewdrives and never stop working
Ive replaced the body control module the window switches and checked my grounds but no luck. So has anyone ever seen a regulator go bad like this but didn't actually break? The motor has 5 wires going into it and I know it has what they call a hall switch inside it so I'm wonderingif that switch could be my problem?
Anyone????
Hey
Just for simplicity's sake why don't you switch the right and left windows switches, they are the same part number and you have nothing to lose.
Good luck
bmw2nv2000
Enthusiast
Already did that. It doesnt change the behavior of the drivers window at all. But thanks for the idea ill take any ideas ya'll can come up with.
I would guess this is an electrical problem with either motor itself or wiring at the switches or at the motor, maybe a loose connection, ground or semi broken wire? These things are hard to trace when problem is intermittent and hard to duplicate, best you can hope for is the window goes out permanently.
HOLLYWOOD1
Enthusiast
My sentiments exactly Steve.....that comment means nothing when they are garage queens or are driven less than 2000 miles a year.
The correct way to diagnose this problem is to use the scan tool to talk to the computer that controls the windows (body control module). It will likely have a stored fault from the last time you had a problem. There are 7 different fault codes for each window. If you know the code there is a set prodecdure and a list of things that could be wrong. Even if you have an intermitent problem this will put you on the right path.
DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH OPEN/SHORT TO VOLTAGE
DRIVER WINDOW HALL EFFECT FAILURE
DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH OPEN/SHORT TO VOLTAGE
DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH SHORT TO GROUND
DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH STUCK DOWN
DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH STUCK UP
DRIVER WINDOW UP OUTPUT SHORT TO GROUND
Some quick checks:
Wiggle all the wiring from the body to the door while the window is in operation, also when the door is fully open you can remove a small access panel on the front top part of the door (in the door jam) and look into the door to see if the wiring has contacted anything.
If you have had any tint or stereo work I would want to check to make sure everything is fully plugged in.
A scan tool would be very helpful with this problem
Good luck
bmw2nv2000
Enthusiast
There were 4 or 5 stored codes that the dealer pulled on the car. I have the paperwok at home but dodge related all codes to wiring problem, bcm problem, or regulator problem. And of course the local dodge dealer couldnt help me anymore than that. I will post the codes on here tomorrow and see if that will maybe help any tech guys here figure out the problem. I was just hoping someone else had seen this same problem and could let me know what the fix for them was. At least if I throw a regulator at it im only out $300 instead of $1000.
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orlandov10
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My 06 Coupe has 3551 miles, not 100K and I'm on my 2nd regulator. My buddy "Pump Gas" bought his Viper brand new from Woodhouse with a supercharger and his regulator broke in the 1st 1000 miles. He was telling me when we close our door with the window down the glass hits the regulator and breaks it. He now closes his door only with the window up and pushes it at the end to close the door, no slamming.
Chelseasnake
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read this hollywood none, i mean one
