Winter storeage questions

Darth Menace

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Hey guys,

Ive had my Viper stored for a bit, but I figure now that winter is officially there I had might as well get it set up properly. I have a two car garage, and I have the viper parked as far over into the corner away from the other vehicle as I can.

My question is is now there is a huge layer of dust on it. This garage isn't heated and the second vehicle will always be going in and out. Would it be better to have the viper uncovered and collecting dust or would it be better to cover it? I am worried is if i cover it in a non-heated garage that is always opening and closing, it will collect alot of condensation underneath. Anyways, if you could help me out on this question it would be great.

If I did cover it I would be taking the cover off once a month or so. I spoke with CHuck Tator and he said to be sure to start the car, let it warm up and move it forward a backwards so the tranny/rear-end can move.
 

bluesrt

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it will collect dust with a cover on it also, almost just as bad, dont ask me how.. if your not worried about someone rubbing against it, or running a bike down the side of it- leave it uncovered- i never use covers cause no-one is around my car- also remember starting your car and letting it idle will discharge your battery in time actually- so if your start it, run it around the block, or dont start it, also letting it idle just leaves moisture in your exhaust and then the inners rust out..... quick---
 

BlknBlu

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I would wash it and purchase a breathable car car cover along with a rubber mat on the floor below it. When I take my car out in the spring and clean the garage floors there is always condensation under my mats.

Bruce
 

DrTaco

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There was a post a few days ago about the car bubble thingys, you could always look into one of those? They will protect the car from dust, minor bumps, bugs and moisture. I have a Carcoon Veloce and love it.

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01sapphirebob

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When I store my my cars I make sure to wash, wax, vacuum, do windows, full tank on gas, pump tires up another 10psi or so, cover it, carpet under the tires, cardboard under the car on the ground, and most importantly...BATTERY TENDER. I only start my cars in the spring do they sit from october to about April without getting started.
 

ACR_VP

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When I store my my cars I make sure to wash, wax, vacuum, do windows, full tank on gas, pump tires up another 10psi or so, cover it, carpet under the tires, cardboard under the car on the ground, and most importantly...BATTERY TENDER. I only start my cars in the spring do they sit from october to about April without getting started.

I do all this plus fuel stabil, and use dryer sheets to keep away any pests.
 

plumcrazy

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When I store my my cars I make sure to wash, wax, vacuum, do windows, full tank on gas, pump tires up another 10psi or so, cover it, carpet under the tires, cardboard under the car on the ground, and most importantly...BATTERY TENDER. I only start my cars in the spring do they sit from october to about April without getting started.

what bob said, battery tender and forget the car till spring.
 
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Darth Menace

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cant the battery just be taken out an brought inside the house? Thats what I do to my bike battery....

Ok, so really it's a toss up about cover vs no cover, but more importantly do the other steps for winterizing
 

ZYellow01RT

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What is this "storage" that is talked about? :drive::drive:

Sorry.....couldn't resist....
 

01sapphirebob

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cant the battery just be taken out an brought inside the house? Thats what I do to my bike battery....

Ok, so really it's a toss up about cover vs no cover, but more importantly do the other steps for winterizing

I would just suggest doning the tender. Since it looks like you have a GEN II it would require you tomremkve the drivers side rear wheel to access the battery. I would say save yourself the trouble and get the battery tender. :)
 

01sapphirebob

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I would just suggest doning the tender. Since it looks like you have a GEN II it would require you to remove the drivers side rear wheel to access the battery. I would say save yourself the trouble and get the battery tender. :)

Corrected mistake. :)
 

01sapphirebob

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I do all this plus fuel stabil, and use dryer sheets to keep away any pests.

I did stabil the first year I stored my rt and didn't other any other year since the. At stalled the first time I tried to start it in the spring. Plus I remember Tom GURU saying that unless being stored for a period of two years or more that stabil isn't required.
 

plumcrazy

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probably still better for the battery to be on a tender. too easy to buy a chaper tender and do that instead of taking off the rear wheel and taking out the battery.

i can see the next thread...How do you take out the battery ???
 

bluesrt

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I did stabil the first year I stored my rt and didn't other any other year since the. At stalled the first time I tried to start it in the spring. Plus I remember Tom GURU saying that unless being stored for a period of two years or more that stabil isn't required.
i dont use stable in my car , it only sits for a few months, but 2 years more than likely your injectors will be hung- anything more than 6 months you should stableize it.and still then get some fresh gas in it asap after you bring it back to the streets.(hung as to be stuck, and have to tap on them to break them free) as you crank the engine
 

ZYellow01RT

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LOL...couldn't resist. Spent my first 24 years in New England and actually do know what storage is all about.

But now I know what perspiration is all about! :omg:
 

bluesrt

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naaaa.. waste of money. unless the floor sweats and gets moisture on the car- you dont need to even fill the tank, cause then you have a full tank of old crap gas when you go to break the car out
 

Jimbos1980

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I have mine in the CarJacket and use the Schumacher battery tender connected to the front terminals. It's my first year of using the cover. The object is to keep the car dust free and dry as it uses dessicant on the inside for drying.

http://www.carbag.com/index.html


The jacket is $199 after the VCA disount (but you have to mention the discount!).
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DrumrBoy

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When I was in IL, I used to store it in a place that got dusty. I used a textile cover and then put a drop cloth over it and ran a string under the car to secure the dropcloth. I don't know how so much dust gets through the textile but as Blue says, it does. I didn't get condensation but if you go this route, check on it from time to time and if there's moisture, get rid of the plastic. I would think the only time you'd get it is if the garage was cold and the weather outside was much warmer and wetter....usually a garage is slightly warmer than ambient....
 

VYPR BYT 94

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I have mine in the CarJacket and use the Schumacher battery tender connected to the front terminals. It's my first year of using the cover. The object is to keep the car dust free and dry as it uses dessicant on the inside for drying.

http://www.carbag.com/index.html


The jacket is $199 after the VCA disount (but you have to mention the discount!).
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Jimbos1980, is there a hole in this for a battery tender? Do you use one with it? I checked their site and there is no mention of it.
 

Jimbos1980

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No hole is needed. I ran the cable down through the engine bay and out the bottom of the car. The bag has 2 zippers so I ran the cable out the front where the zipper meets the end of the bag. Works well so far-especially if you don't have a heated garage.
 

Leslie

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When I store my my cars I make sure to wash, wax, vacuum, do windows, full tank on gas, pump tires up another 10psi or so, cover it, carpet under the tires, cardboard under the car on the ground, and most importantly...BATTERY TENDER. I only start my cars in the spring do they sit from october to about April without getting started.

I do an oil change too.
 

Mopar Steve

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Here is a list I made for another forum for Winter storage:

1. Disconnect battery and put on a Battery tender. These are not all the same, it is important not to use a trickle charger, these will fry the battery (sulfate).

2. Oil change and filter

3. Cooling system flush and fresh coolant (at the correct portions)
4. Tires to max inflation (see side wall of tire)

5. Top off all fluids (trans, windshield washer, rear, brake fluid, Clutch fluid,)

6. Fill Gas tank as full as possible, and add fuel stabilizer (Ok to go a little heavy) Remember, gas tanks rust out on the inside top of the tank from condensation building up on the inside. If there is fuel all the way to the top, there is no room for moisture to collect. Add fuel stabilizer.

7. Vacuum and detail the interior. Make sure there is no French fry's under the seat or anything that would draw rodents/insects. pick up some desiccant packets (these are the little packets that keep things dry). Baking soda boxes are a good idea as well.

8. Wash, clay bar, polish and wax the outside. This includes the chrome and brightwork.

9. Clean the engine bay. Not a bad idea to put some rat/mouse poison under the hood. Mice like to build nests in engine bays and chew wires.

10. Put mouse traps on the floor around the car.

11. Clean out the trunk and air up the spare.
 

slysnake

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My garage is just like yours, unheated and the second car goes in and out every day. I have found that covered, there is moisture build up. So I store uncovered now. And a rubber mat under the car. Got mine at a place called Menards. Cost is about 175.00
 

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