WTB: Gen 3 crank damper, pulley, bolt

[cash84]

Sorry if this not suppose to be posted here but how many really look at the wanted ads? lol

Like the title says! I've been really getting a move on my project and I rather not pull off anything from my viper. I know mine has the big crank damper bolt but I need the small one. This has to be in okay condition so I can test fit the mandrel drive for the dry sump. Can reply here or email me at [email protected] with a price.

 

[Viper Specialty]

From your other posts, you are working on a Dry Sump. The OE damper is poor as it is, I would not advise trying to work around it. Use an ATI based system instead. The two are not partially interchangeable like they are on Gen-1/2 car, so you would have to design around the ATI to start with. You could also run a Gen-4 ATI, which would give you near 1.5" of free space on the BACK side of the hub between the damper and timing cover.

 

[cash84]

From your other posts, you are working on a Dry Sump. The OE damper is poor as it is, I would not advise trying to work around it. Use an ATI based system instead. The two are not partially interchangeable like they are on Gen-1/2 car, so you would have to design around the ATI to start with. You could also run a Gen-4 ATI, which would give you near 1.5" of free space on the BACK side of the hub between the damper and timing cover.

Thanks for replying back to this. Now I'm glad you posted this. I am planning using the ATI racing but didn't know the offset is different. Explains why it comes with a pulley. I did talk to ATI racing and he told me my best bet is to use mandrel drive. The damper is too close to the engine to put any kind of drive. As you said the gen 4 has 1.5" clearance behind the damper. Would you happen to have a picture of this? The steering rack only has like little over an inch from the pulley.

 

[MTGTS]

Scharfs prob has them laying around. I have extra Gen 2 but not Gen 3

 

[Viper Specialty]

Thanks for replying back to this. Now I'm glad you posted this. I am planning using the ATI racing but didn't know the offset is different. Explains why it comes with a pulley. I did talk to ATI racing and he told me my best bet is to use mandrel drive. The damper is too close to the engine to put any kind of drive. As you said the gen 4 has 1.5" clearance behind the damper. Would you happen to have a picture of this? The steering rack only has like little over an inch from the pulley.

I will try and get a picture later. The Gen-4 damper is moved forward, and the pulley is right up against it, but the crank and belt are in the same locations as Gen-3. I actually mounted an auxiliary crank trigger in this empty space with room to spare, granted the Gen-3 and Gen-4 timing covers are different with regard to anything that may be in the way, so you will have to use your judgement on whether it may work for you.

 

[cash84]

Scharfs prob has them laying around. I have extra Gen 2 but not Gen 3

I have dealt with him in the past and I believe he has poor communication through emails. I have asked for a yellow front bumper and he had one but I had to email him twice in order to get him to respond back with pictures. Thanks for your help tho.

I will try and get a picture later. The Gen-4 damper is moved forward, and the pulley is right up against it, but the crank and belt are in the same locations as Gen-3. I actually mounted an auxiliary crank trigger in this empty space with room to spare, granted the Gen-3 and Gen-4 timing covers are different with regard to anything that may be in the way, so you will have to use your judgement on whether it may work for you.

Okay, I don't get what ATI racing Tech telling me to do but I found this and seems like this is the correct part I would need and mount a HTD pulley on the damper The part number is 917933E. Couldn't this work?

 

[Viper Specialty]

here is a picture of a Gen-4 Damper/Pulley. Note the extra room on the back side of the hub.

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[cash84]

917933E is a Gen-3 Blower Drive... absolutely not what you want. It is a goofy multi-peice arrangement with two keyways, and a damper in the same place as the Gen-3 ATI standard arrangement.

You want a Gen-4 damper/pulley assembly, which I can have keyed for you if you need it- otherwise you should at least Pin it like a Paxton kit would use.

Yep I knew the difference but thought it could be interchangeable to a HTD pulley.

You mean keyed for the HTD pulley correct?

here is a picture of a Gen-4 Damper/Pulley. Note the extra room on the back side of the hub.

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I can't get the picture I probably have to have facebook account for that right? I took mine off about a month ago.

 

[Gotvenom 08]

917933E is a Gen-3 Blower Drive... absolutely not what you want. It is a goofy multi-peice arrangement with two keyways, and a damper in the same place as the Gen-3 ATI standard arrangement.

You want a Gen-4 damper/pulley assembly, which I can have keyed for you if you need it- otherwise you should at least Pin it like a Paxton kit would use.

Jeff

I could be of some assistance here if you need.I am handier than YOU look ya know! Jus sayin! All I need is dimensions and we are good to go.Possibly Dan could help us with that?


T

 

[cash84]

here is a picture of a Gen-4 Damper/Pulley. Note the extra room on the back side of the hub.

You must be registered for see images

Yeah I got the picture on explore, I was on firefox ugh. Okay, that looks like what I really need! Would you happen to have the OD where you have the trigger wheel?

 

[Viper Specialty]

I do not, and I cant really get a caliper in there anymore. ATI should be able to supply that if you need it in advance.

 

[cash84]

Well I got the gen 4 damper. One problem, it sits tight against the seal so I found a exact size washer 18ga and it got enough to space out away from the seal. I now see that it's going to be a pita to route a belt to the location I plan on having the pump. I just need a day break on this. I know I can figure it out.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Well I got the gen 4 damper. One problem, it sits tight against the seal so I found a exact size washer 18ga and it got enough to space out away from the seal. I now see that it's going to be a pita to route a belt to the location I plan on having the pump. I just need a day break on this. I know I can figure it out.

I would not do that... now the belt offset is all wrong.

How much interference with the seal? The seal can be turned on the backside to gain about .100 or so [it will drop further into the cover], and the hub rear can be turned as well to gain a little bit if need be.

 

[cash84]

Thanks for the catch! Okay, I can turn the seal around. The hub just catches the seal. My other option is to mill down the the hole for the seal to gain some room but turning the seal should be good. It's about .06 I need to gain.

Do you know my any chance if someone may have a gilmer pulley with 2.000" ID? I got one coming that is big enough to put in a 2" ID in it then use set screw at 180 degrees

 

[Viper Specialty]

Thanks for the catch! Okay, I can turn the seal around. The hub just catches the seal. My other option is to mill down the the hole for the seal to gain some room but turning the seal should be good. It's about .06 I need to gain.

Do you know my any chance if someone may have a gilmer pulley with 2.000" ID? I got one coming that is big enough to put in a 2" ID in it then use set screw at 180 degrees

FYI- don't reverse the seal. I meant turn as in turn on a lathe. Trim the back outer edge a bit.

Not sure on the Gilmer- but I would not use a set-screw in that app. That is keyway territory. Use a shallow woodruff or small square key and a press-fit or a tight slip fit with a clip & groove on both sides.

 

[cash84]

Just posted in your dry sump thread, any way some pics of interest... Comp Coupe that had an adapted GTS-R pump on it, this pump had been mod for the Gen3 block using the stock location (side) street car mounts (GTS-R block mounted using front cover mounts).

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Tight for space, this Comp Coupe Gen3 engine is moved back about 1" (but also lowered...required alot of work!)

Thanks for the picture! I'm trying every effort not to remove the A/C. Where were you able to put the oil Tank? Best solution I found was right in front of the engine. I am switching to a Gen 4 rad fans to gain little room.

FYI- don't reverse the seal. I meant turn as in turn on a lathe. Trim the back outer edge a bit.

Not sure on the Gilmer- but I would not use a set-screw in that app. That is keyway territory. Use a shallow woodruff or small square key and a press-fit or a tight slip fit with a clip & groove on both sides.

Opps, I misread what you said but yes I know what you mean by turning since I understood that on the hub. Gezz, whats with me? I must have my g/f's hormones since she is pregnant ha.

Hmm A keyway must be the only solution. I just thought another idea about having longer bolts that can go through the gilmer and through a nut on but probably not a good idea. I think the shallow woodruff would be the best.