wtb stock front rotors 97 gts

[Zrxpilot]

Looking for a nice set of low mileage front rotors that will fit a 97 gts. Stock take-offs.

 

[dave6666]

I'll have a set off my GTS ('01, 30K miles) in mid December. If you can wait that long and if they are what you want, you can have them for free. Just waiting on my new wheels to be made, and will also do SRT/Euroteck/Big Brakes on all 4 corners. Still the original pads on the car, and the rotors look good. Lemme know. I can take some pics if you're interested.

 

[Zrxpilot]

^ Nice offer. Glad to see there are still some good people walking the planet. Found a BUNCH of cracks on mine. Unbelieveable. Im leaving it on blocks until I get it sorted out. Reading other posts, it sounds like the stockers are a safer bet than the economical e-bay rotors I looked at tonight. Upgraded rotors aint going to happen this close to sled season.

 

[EMnuke123]

i have some off of a 96 gts that have about 9k miles on them. yours for 40 plus shipping.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

If all you're looking for is stock replacement then just go to PepBoys or Advanced or wherever.

 

[FrankBarba]

You gotta be kidding right ?? I guess the economy is really that bad....Looking for used Rotors....

 

[97GTS]

Agreed. Buy new rotors from the local auto parts dealer. Cheap for a Viper relatively speaking.

Ron

 

[JonB]

Looking for a nice set of low mileage front rotors that will fit a 97 gts. Stock take-offs.

I would likely GIVE you a set, but the S/H costs the same as a generic new pair from NAPA.

ps..... a 30,000 mile front rotor should be past its minimums with mixed driving in most cases..... there are rare exceptions. (If they 'look new', the former owner must have replaced em....)

 

[Zrxpilot]

Thanks guys. Ive done a fair amount of searching regarding this subject. The consensus is that the stock rotors are a safer and more durable rotor than many of the lower (and perhaps mid-cost) items offered on e-bay. This including several of the 1 piece cross drilled and slotted rotors with elaborate coatings. I assumed by this there was something exceptional with the stock rotors and presumed expensive to buy new.

To me it seems there are only two ways to do brakes. Do it big with two-piece rotors (and expect to shell out at least 800.00) or stick with dialed-in stock with good pads that seem adequate even for the occasional entry level club racer burning laps once in awhile. Anything in-between misses the point of having this car in the first place. Seeing as I have bigger fish to fry, dialed-in stock appears to be the appropriate direction at this point in time.


If above is true, is it safe to assume that the stock rotors are equal in durability and function as what can be bought at napa and would be safe for an entry level club racer that may see the track twice a year? If so, thats friggin great news. If not, all I want to do is get something on there thats safe until I can step up appropriatly.

 

[dave6666]

..... there are rare exceptions.

My car is rare. That makes my parts rare. And valuable too. I see myself as the next bazillionaire. Lone Star Rotor Dave. NASDAQ short symbol LSD.

 

[TexasPettey]

Go to Autozone. $25/each for new ones. At least that's what I paid here in TX. I ran these on the road course at TWS for 3 events with no issues.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

They might be this inexpensive at the store because long ago I read that the rotors are Ford truck rotors with 6 holes instead of 5. That would make them fairly high volume castings.

 

[2MANYTOYS]

I have a set with about 3,000 miles on them. Let me know if you're interested.

 

[JonB]

Thanks guys. Ive done a fair amount of searching regarding this subject. The consensus is that the stock rotors are a safer and more durable rotor than many of the lower (and perhaps mid-cost) items offered on e-bay. This including several of the 1 piece cross drilled and slotted rotors with elaborate coatings. I assumed by this there was something exceptional with the stock rotors and presumed expensive to buy new.

To me it seems there are only two ways to do brakes. Do it big with two-piece rotors (and expect to shell out at least 800.00) or stick with dialed-in stock with good pads that seem adequate even for the occasional entry level club racer burning laps once in awhile. Anything in-between misses the point of having this car in the first place. Seeing as I have bigger fish to fry, dialed-in stock appears to be the appropriate direction at this point in time.
If above is true, is it safe to assume that the stock rotors are equal in durability and function as what can be bought at napa and would be safe for an entry level club racer that may see the track twice a year? If so, thats friggin great news. If not, all I want to do is get something on there thats safe until I can step up appropriatly.

Reminder: this thread began as a 'used rotor' want-ad?

Safety is in the eye of the inspector. If you faithfully inspect your rotors before every event, buy cheap. Buy rotor-friendly pads. Change your own? The dollars-per-mile will be your reward, if that is your goal. If you scrimp on COST dont scrimp on INSPECTIONS.

If faster lap times are your reward, buy the lightest rotor you can afford, slotted. And aggressive, high-friction rotor-eater pads. SS lines, hi-temp fluid, cooling ducts etc.

If **** is your goal, there is a place for you, too. 2pc, colors, plating, slots and holes and assymetrical vanes and sparkle-paint if you want it. A few FAST rotors are ****!

Lastly: MoPar builds NO parts. Since D-C times and now, the LOWEST, Lowly cheap BIDDER WINS. MoPar OE rotors of Gen 1-2 era (pre 2002) almost certainly possessed better metallurgy than OE Brembo rotors of today, save for ACR. What's past, is, well..............past.