Yet another NEW product for Gen 1 RT !! Must have!!

[Tom F&L GoR]

Got you to look! Advertising can be fun (and kind of stupid) sometimes. So OK, this might apply to more than old Gen 1 RTs, but that's why I did this.

For those folks with a faulty fuel line check valve (you know: crank and crank and crank before it starts, but when it finally does, it always runs fine) your choices to date have been 1) live with it, or 2) buy a fuel pump module for about $400 and labor to cut through the trunk wall (maybe 4 hours?) to replace it. Down time is probably a few days and how does that trunk wall look when it's done? Bummer.

Smile. I put together an inexpensive fix that is quick and something you can do with NO TOOLS. It's an external fuel line check valve, flowing 5.5 gal/min (not per hour) that is installed at the fuel filter using standard Dodge fuel line connectors. No cutting, no fittings, no irreversible changes, can be left under the car or removed at any time. You unclip the fuel line from the outlet of the fuel filter, clip on the external fuel line check valve, and clip the other end of the new valve to the OEM line. Done. Here's what the first one looked like (under the car, forward of the left side halfshaft.)

The black hose attaches to the fuel filter outlet using a Chrysler style fitting. The brass check valve is rated for 1000 psi, operates over a temperature range of -20F to 400F, has a Viton seat, and a lift-off pressure of only 0.3 psi. The outlet is again a Chrysler fuel line to which the factory fuel line (the braided line) attaches.

In the final version, I'll make the length of the ends a little more appropriate for the installation. The check valve is tie wrapped to a number of lines; a wiring loom, the parking brake cable (the one with the rusty clamp), or the fuel vapor return line (clipped into the plastic holder.)

I'll put together a few kits, with directions, for $95 per kit. If Gen 2 looks a lot different than Gen 1, I'll be happy to offer the first guinea pig (that helps me with the length of the ends) a good deal. I'll ship them after one more install (another '94 with a bad check valve) so I can verify the new ends are more correct in length. Let me know if you're interested. With a good response, we'll add this to the "Gen 1 Survival Kit" line of products.

Any questions, let me know. Thanks.

 

[Jeff Lemke]

If it works good, I'm interested.

Jeff

 

[Eric H]

see thats what i like to see, a viper guy making AFFORDABLE parts for the Viper....not taking $40 worth of parts and selling it for $300

Good work Tom!

 

[got one]

Great idea! Thanks for sharing.

 

[A1998]

Hoping I never need this it's great to see this product come available. You know someday I'll remember this and say I wish I ordered one of these. SO does this take the place of the fuel filter permantly?? If this does solve the problem, what is the next step, keep the check valve and cut the line elsewhere for a filter? Just wondering.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

No, it doesn't take the place of the filter (just my poor aim didn't include the filter in the picture.) The filter is at the bottom of the picture, a little right of center.

The new check valve is after the filter, which stays in the original location. If it solves the problem, you're done. (Unless you want to take the fuel pump module out of the tank and replace it.) I'll post a picture of the new parts alone.

There is no cutting or splicing of the fuel line; everything connects to what is already under the car. No tools needed except rags, safety glasses, and dextrous fingers.

 

[A1998]

OK I'll bite at your offer. I have a 98 GTS getting ready to come out of storage. What info do you need??

A1998

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Just PM or email an address. When I ship them (probably mid-next week) they'll have an envelope to return a check (Chuck Tator style payment method.)

 

[troyrt10]

Quick question? I think it's related to this post. I have a 93 rt/10, when I start the car in the morning it starts right up. IF I drive it for 10 minutes or more and park it, when I come back to start the car it cranks and cranks until it finally starts. I called and asked Sean Roe what he thought it might be. He told me to turn the car to the on position for about 3 to 4 seconds and then to the off position for 1 to 2 seconds then start the car. I did that and it does help. But it cranks for 2 seconds instead of 5 seconds. Which is alot better! I thought he said it was the fuel check modulator but is that the same as the fuel line check valve listed above??? Please help! Sorry for the ignorance! If it is the same I WILL BUY ONE FOR SURE!
It's so embarrassing to have this beautiful car that doesn't start up right away. Also, FYI, after I crank the warm engine, if I turn it off right away and then start it again, it starts right up.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Troy, yes, you are describing the problem that this valve will take care of. PM me and I'll let you know when I have kits ready.

 

[troyrt10]

I'm a little embarassed, but I'm not sure how to PM. My e-mail address is [email protected]. Please e-mail info as soon as possible I'm VERY interested! Also, can I do this myself or will I need to have my mechanic do it?
Thanks!!!
Troy

 

[troyrt10]

SORRY!
Went and reread more carefully! Very easy install! EVEN MORE EXCITED NOW!

Just a couple questions?
Is it ok for the old fuel line check valve to stay in the tank?

Again, I'm a little ignorant, but how exactly does it work?

And what happens if it doesn't work?

Again, I'm very excited I was planning on replacing the fuel line check valve the old fashioned way this summer.

Troy

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Troy, I'll send you a note when we're ready. Yes, you leave the old check valve in the tank.

Think of a pencil in a funnel. When it drops in, it plugs the hole. No fluid can pass from the large end into the small end of the funnel. But when fluid is pushed up from the small end of the funnel, it lifts the pencil and fluid goes through. There is also a very light spring to keep the "pencil" in the hole in case the assembly is mounted upside down. This check valve only requires 0.3 psi to lift the pencil out of the hole (the pump puts out ~50 psi.)

If it doesn't work (help), it means that the check valve wasn't the problem. You can take the add-on valve back out of the system.

Glad to see it makes your day!

 

[Steve-Indy]

I'm in.

 

[Clown Shoe]

Hi Tom Im in. Please email me when ready Ghetto

 

[troyrt10]

Any updates? How much longer? Ready to buy!