it probably will work, but they need to clean it good or it wont stick. I have welded a bunch of these and once the corrision is ground down you can always cut a small pc of al and weld it back in. I think they are steerinig you this way because they don't want to mess with trying to weld it...
Of coure they are, how do you think they get the designs and text on them? It is really great that your willing to grace us with your persistent posts, I see you joined in 2007, I can’t remember how it was before you came along, but it is a blessing that what ever life you had before was...
This is an incorrect statement, solder does not take more heat than to tig. I also would like to see someone tig weld an aluminum anodized soda can. The al oxide has a much higher melting point, unless that is removed you will burn thru the can everytime.
To weld these you should use a copper...
you cant do anything if they are yellow, that is due to the plastic breaking down. But you can sand them with 1500 (wet sand with a little detergant) then buff with some polishing compound (I use ultra cutting cream) You will need a real buffer to do this in order to generate the heat/force...
more info? I never heard this, the gen2's all have MLS gaskets and I never read they had a problem or redisigns. (maybe your thinking of the 96 RTs' that still used the fiber gaskets)
i had a problem with mine, I was unplugging the injector harness to find a plugged injector and that caused the vec to short out, dont unplug your injectors while the car is running!
There is a member that has these already repaired. He would probably take yours in on trade. If you know anyone that is a decent tig welder, they can fix these.
yes bank 1 is left side, but I have had this problem before on other cars. Replace the one and if the code persisits take the one you replaced with and put in on the other side.
split second piggy back is the cheapest (less than $500) and only a boost-a-pump and larger injectors for the fuel upgrade and your still around $6k plus labor
yes, it fits. but I am still not sure about the turbo oil drain system on this. I helped install one on a customers car, but he has not finished the fuel upgrade or oil drain yet. The inner cooler is pretty nice. If you could get the kit for $500 (minus turbos) then its a pretty good deal...
yes, I have done this in the past, I have seen these bubble from corrision in places where there are no screws so I dont buy the gal reaction entirely. Everyone I have fixed I grind and tig weld the spots back up, then use epoxy primer inside and out and stainless screw fasteners. So far none...
evercoat makes both SMC and std fiberglass material. It is important that he used actual SMC repair material. IF he did and it looks good $500 is a good deal
put it on a dyno, do some pulls (make sure the dyno has duel Air fuel sensors for both banks) and see what your Hp and A/F curve looks like. If your running real rich you will get some hp gains with a vec 2. You may also want to reconsder just having someone "reflash" your PCM. You can gain...
Really not worth it unless your using larger injectors. You may get about 40 Hp by triming the fuel curve a little. Have you replaced your head gasket yet? If not I would wait and port the heads when you change the gasket. That will give you 75 Hp and much more torque.
if they did not use SMC repair, you wont know it unitl about two weeks after driving it and the heat of the motor lifts and bubbles the fiberglass. Find out who did the repair and ask them what they used.
good and bad both ways. External pumps tend to overheat as they are not immersed in fuel and shut down. I think the best is using the stock canister and adding pumps, the stock canister has enough sump to avoid the fuel starvation around corners.
you need rails and bigger injectors, you should look at 50# high imp. injectors. A couple guys are now selling rails (AB, CPE) Those gen 2 injectors are not going to give you enough fuel for 700 plus hp. What size fuel line do you have?
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