Can be done, but you have to take apart the whole differential. But firstly should you check so that the ladderbar is tightened properly...a loose ladderbar can result in the "clonk" sound. If you need further advice just shoot me a e-mail or PM.
Baz,
The most important work on the heads is in the area just before the guides and down to the seats. If you design that area correctly and still go with stock valves will you notice signinficant power gains. In my opinion is a 2.20 Valve over the top.
You will gain almost nothing on port...
It's actually built for Nitrous, but the race series we are running doesn't allow Nitrous. 10.70 all day on motor.
The heads are wery well designed, with a lot of flow "under the curve".
The clutch I've bben using this season is based on a Archer kevlar clutch. Since it did only last for about 20 runs did we do the following with it.
The Pressure Plate surface was reworked with new angles. The Disc did get the kevlar replaced with Iron Sinters. That setup lasted for about 30...
Just look so that the runners match the heads. If there is any bumps or so in the runners can you grind them away. If you want to do a serious port job on the intake will you have to cut it open to get access to the runners.
The decission about porting the intake is dependent how the heads will...
The CNC process is just a question of getting many heads to flow the same numbers, to exactly deliver the advertised product to all customers.
The best heads are still done by hand...
Danny, no I'm not running on boost, I'm using Nitrous as additive. I do agree with you about beeing carefull. I use a set of fixed installed Wide band lambdas with displays to always be on the safe side.
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