05 Copperhead overheating with A/C on only

Threesixes

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Any ideas why my stock 05 Copperhead overheats only with the a/c on? The fan turns on. On a hot day the temp guage will read a little past the 200 mark on the guage. Between the 200 and the 1st hash mark after it. When I turn on the A/C it will start creeping up to that mark, then past it at which point I turn off the A/C and it will start to cool down. I'm thinking the fan might not be turning fast enough?
 

SFViper

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If the fan comes on, does it stay on? a bad fan relay can cause it to go on and off. The fan should remain on as long as the AC is on. Also have you checked to see if you have enough coolant? A stuck thermostat or clogged coolant hose can also be the cuprit.
 

bluesrt

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how many miles on it--- throw a thermostat n a rad cap at it first.... go from there... usually a aluminum radiater doesnt clog, but have seen it--- is the coolant clean? is the overflow bottle clean? if its **** free, then more than likely the rad is not clogged...
 
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Threesixes

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The coolant is clean, theres 22K miles on it. When it heats up the power steering seems to work a little less too. I wonder if my power steering pump is going out or if before I bought it the fluid got contaminated or someone put the wrong stuff in. Its been like this since I bought it and I dont know the history of this car. I just dont understand why turning the air conditioning on makes it heat up more. If it wasnt for that I would think its the power steering pump.
 

fqberful

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Here's some food for thought. In a GenIII , the fan is a hydraulic motor and it's controlled directly with a PWM signal from the PCM via a flow valve at the bottom of the motor.

I have seen those stupid hydraulic "motors" go bad. So if you have a PS pump issue or a fan "motor" issue that would also explain your funny feeling steering.

Also, the "motor" has a small bypass orifice that causes the fan to turn at low RPM all the time. It speeds up when the PCM tells it to.

Also, no relays in this system except the main power bus that provides the high side power to the valve.

--FQB
 

RTTTTed

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You didn't say if the car is moving makes a difference or what the ambient temps are? If it's just sitting and overheating then you need to drive the car. If that doesn't matter then you'll know that airflow/rad/condensor are probably not the problem.

If the temp goes down to normal when you drive it then you can assume that it's too hot for the system, of you need to upgrade your colling system. DC Performance has don quite a bit of heating modifications and Dan is a good one to talk to about it. He may want to sell you one of his "cooling kits".

But ... since you didn't post where you're located, maybe Macedo Motorsports in Florida is closer?

Ted
 

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Your car heats up faster because the A/C pump takes extra power to run, and the condenser, located in front of the radiator, further diminishes cooling ability of any cooling system, especially one which already has issues.

The Fan System in the SRT-10 is Hydraulic, not electric. It runs off of the Power Steering pump. Regardless of what people think, this system is VERY efficient and far more capable than its electric counterparts. It is however, more susceptible to damage from bad PS pumps, contamination, and old fluid.

First off, check your PS fluid for contamination, and make sure the level is OK. If it looks burnt/metallic, or is full, continue on reading. If it is very low, fill it, and find your leak, and flush it.

More than likely, the cause of your issues is your PS pump. I have seen many 2005-2006's with bad PS pumps. However, many times, the bad PS pump takes the hydraulic fan motor with it.

If your PS pump is bad, the diminished flow will cause the fan to spin slower, flowing less air. The extra load from the A/C puts it over the ability of the fan to cool. The low PS pressure also would account for your increased steering feel.

My recommendations are:

-Flush PS system 3x with new ATF+4 [To minimize contamination]
-Drain PS Fluid.
-Replace Pump and Fan Motor as a pair [If BOTH are going out, the bad one left in your PS system can take your new pump/motor out again in short order]
-Refill PS system, and run until system purges air.
-Flush system 1 more time immediately.
-Flush system 1 last time about 100 miles later.

I recommend to EVERYONE, flush your PS fluid every 15K miles, or every three years, which ever comes first. Since I started recommending this, I have not seen a failure from anyone who has actually done this!
 
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Threesixes

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You didn't say if the car is moving makes a difference or what the ambient temps are? If it's just sitting and overheating then you need to drive the car. If that doesn't matter then you'll know that airflow/rad/condensor are probably not the problem.

If the temp goes down to normal when you drive it then you can assume that it's too hot for the system, of you need to upgrade your colling system. DC Performance has don quite a bit of heating modifications and Dan is a good one to talk to about it. He may want to sell you one of his "cooling kits".

But ... since you didn't post where you're located, maybe Macedo Motorsports in Florida is closer?

Ted

I live in the California Bay Area. Temperature was in the low to mid 90's I think. The car heats up faster if its in traffic or moving slow. A quick trip on the freeway with the A/C off will cool it down to a little above 200 on the guage.I dont think the car should need a cooling system upgrade because its not mofified.
 
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Threesixes

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Your car heats up faster because the A/C pump takes extra power to run, and the condenser, located in front of the radiator, further diminishes cooling ability of any cooling system, especially one which already has issues.

The Fan System in the SRT-10 is Hydraulic, not electric. It runs off of the Power Steering pump. Regardless of what people think, this system is VERY efficient and far more capable than its electric counterparts. It is however, more susceptible to damage from bad PS pumps, contamination, and old fluid.

First off, check your PS fluid for contamination, and make sure the level is OK. If it looks burnt/metallic, or is full, continue on reading. If it is very low, fill it, and find your leak, and flush it.

More than likely, the cause of your issues is your PS pump. I have seen many 2005-2006's with bad PS pumps. However, many times, the bad PS pump takes the hydraulic fan motor with it.

If your PS pump is bad, the diminished flow will cause the fan to spin slower, flowing less air. The extra load from the A/C puts it over the ability of the fan to cool. The low PS pressure also would account for your increased steering feel.

My recommendations are:

-Flush PS system 3x with new ATF+4 [To minimize contamination]
-Drain PS Fluid.
-Replace Pump and Fan Motor as a pair [If BOTH are going out, the bad one left in your PS system can take your new pump/motor out again in short order]
-Refill PS system, and run until system purges air.
-Flush system 1 more time immediately.
-Flush system 1 last time about 100 miles later.

I recommend to EVERYONE, flush your PS fluid every 15K miles, or every three years, which ever comes first. Since I started recommending this, I have not seen a failure from anyone who has actually done this!

Thanks for the advice. I suspect the PS pump as well. Its good to know that I should replace the fan motor as well. I dont know if you carry the parts, but if you do shoot me a PM with prices when you get a chance.
 

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Thanks for the advice. I suspect the PS pump as well. Its good to know that I should replace the fan motor as well. I dont know if you carry the parts, but if you do shoot me a PM with prices when you get a chance.

Hello,

Sure do!

Please PM me with your name/address/phone/E-mail, and I will make an account for you, and e-mail over the parts estimate.
 

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