2 New 2006 Vipers In 4 Months Same Idle Issue??

[MGWLTD]

hey guys,

wanted to see what if anything you guys can come up with on this. i bought a 2006 viper srt10 vert about 6 months ago. after about 2 weeks of running fine the start up idle seemed to get rougher and lower. finally after the 3rd day of this it would not stay on unless i gave it a gentle throttle for about 2 minutes. once warm the car ran flawlessly.

also if i shut it off and came back less than an hour or so it started fine. only when dead cold would this come up.

now i have a 2006 viper coupe and same exact thing. first few days started up no problem. then last couple days got lower and rougher idle until this morining i had to feather the throttle again.

i think the vert was a bad air idle motor but i am shocked that this is the same problem since this is rare i guess.

any ideas what it could be??

again, once the car warms up it runs like a champ so i doubt it is bad gas or battery issues but i just do not know what it is.

regards
george

 

[Joseph Houss]

I remember that the gen2's idle control sensor actually needed a nice solid 12 volts to activate properly. When a battery was weak, you would tend to have idle issues (ie: decelerate quickly and rather than idleing, it would stall).

I wonder if you just have a weak battery? It sounds like you might as you mention it doesn't happen after "warming up".

 

[MGWLTD]

I remember that the gen2's idle control sensor actually needed a nice solid 12 volts to activate properly. When a battery was weak, you would tend to have idle issues (ie: decelerate quickly and rather than idleing, it would stall).

I wonder if you just have a weak battery? It sounds like you might as you mention it doesn't happen after "warming up".

THANKS FOR THE POST JOE,


WE THOUGHT THAT IT MIGHT BE THE BATTERY ON THE FIRST CAR AND I REPLACED IT . IT DID NOT HELP


GEORGE

 

[Joseph Houss]

Terminal connectors?

Cables?

It truly sounds like a voltage issue.

 

[Roadrunner]

I'd check the AIS motor... if it is sticking or otherwise *****'d it will mess your idle... the reason it idles better warm is that the engine doesn't need as much air to idle warm as it does cold.

Bascially, the engine should be able to idle at about 450rpm even if you plug the AIS feed hose with your hand. If it can't do that you need to open the main throttle hard stop a TINY bit till the engine can draw enough air through the main throttles to just sustain running. It is that little air flow plus the air flow through the bypass tube and AIS servo valve that is the air control for stable idle.

The engine computer then will have the authority it needs to feed varying amounts of air to the engine. It also performs "spark scatter" to really nail the 750rpm set point once it is through warm up idle speeds.