Alignment recommendations? '01GTS
- Thread starter Leslie
- Start date
Yes, drive on street to/from track on Toyo's, 5 hrs. Each way, roads are smooth here in IN.
Looking for dual purpose, yes! If it's an aggressive street alignment, that's ok.
Toyo recommends as much camber as possible.
Looking for dual purpose, yes! If it's an aggressive street alignment, that's ok.
Toyo recommends as much camber as possible.
Leslie, do you pull your sport shims out after you arrive at track and replace them prior to driving home ??
Tail lights
Viper Owner
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- Feb 25, 2011
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Hi, I also have a 2001 sapphire/ silver striped GTS With stoptech BBK And track mods. I just rolled over 80,000 miles. I played with a lot of alignments on my car. I feel 2.25 front camber Is the magic number For street driving and track cornering. Anymore is just too squirrelly On the street. Also 1.1 in the back Is a great number, There's enough footprint on the ground to do what the viper does best, Brutal aceleration, As far as caster, The stock specs are very aggressive. Also rear toe in leave stock, On the front try 0 toe in or just a little. With ease specs your car will not want to go straight. But will dive into a corner. When pushed to the limit, And beyond, My car still pushes. What kind of modifications have you done to your car. My next month vacation will be spacers on the front wheels.
Sounds like we have the same Viper from another mother, haha. Thanks for the recommendations.
Steve- shims?
http://www.autoblog.com/2012/05/18/watch-spectators-rush-to-save-lives-of-rally-drivers-trapped-in/?icid=maing-grid10|htmlws-main-bb|dl5|sec1_lnk3%26pLid%3D163425
Can't get diagram to appear...sent via e-mail
Look at number 6 (there are two on each side) under bolts attaching upper
control arm to frame....when you pull them out (AFTER arriving at track), you
gain about another 1 degree of negative camber....replace before driving home as
discussed in thread...and service manual. Since you drive SO FAR to track, I
worry about too much front camber causing excessive tire wear and possibly
premature failure of your front bearings (double race SKF bearings as I
recall).
Can't get diagram to appear...sent via e-mail
Look at number 6 (there are two on each side) under bolts attaching upper
control arm to frame....when you pull them out (AFTER arriving at track), you
gain about another 1 degree of negative camber....replace before driving home as
discussed in thread...and service manual. Since you drive SO FAR to track, I
worry about too much front camber causing excessive tire wear and possibly
premature failure of your front bearings (double race SKF bearings as I
recall).
Like you, I have the stoptech bbk, 6 piston front, 2 piece rotors, ss lines, air ducts, archer racing springs/susp/sway bars, lowered, corner weight/balance, hurst shifter
No power mods, just smooth tubes, intake/exhaust, no cats
My Viper overheats a bit, so I have replaced the pwr steering bracket and let a little fluid out at the track. I also clean the radiator every other weekend of track critters, and run 70% distilled water, 30% coolant and 2 bottles of water wetter.
I also use Motul 660 brake fluid before each weekend and oil change every OTHER weekend (mobile 1. 15/50).
No power mods, just smooth tubes, intake/exhaust, no cats
My Viper overheats a bit, so I have replaced the pwr steering bracket and let a little fluid out at the track. I also clean the radiator every other weekend of track critters, and run 70% distilled water, 30% coolant and 2 bottles of water wetter.
I also use Motul 660 brake fluid before each weekend and oil change every OTHER weekend (mobile 1. 15/50).
Leslie, have you tried changing the temperatures at which the fan comes on? I did this using the SCT software to turn my fan on sooner, I think 185 and my temps have never gone above the middle mark since. Airflow seems to be the key. I too run 70% water, 30% cooler, Water Wetter, etc.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Mid Ohio. I wanna run that someday. I remember watching Mid Ohio races on tv when I was a kid. Enjoy Leslie. Ever have any issues with Motul boiling?
Allan
Enthusiast
Wow, do you really keep the motor wound up like that? I thought I was rude, but wow. Surprised you are asking a track car set up question. It seems that you are a well respected track rat and most definitely not a poser. Don't know how much different gen II cars are from the SRT cars, but gen III / IV guys usually are -1.5 to -2.5 camber in the front and -1 to -2.0 in the rear. Always toe in on the rear about 1/8" or so for stability at high speed and hard braking. front toe varies by driver preferance and the type of track you run on. Front caster around 5.5 to 6 usually. I run -2.2 camber in front, -1.5 in the rear. 1/8" toe in front, 3/16" toe in rear. Car turns well, fairly neutral handleing (I can create oversteer or understeer by manipulating weight transfer) stops straight, stable at high speed (up to 175 mph). hope this helps.
Chuck, Mid oh is an awsome track, you definitely gotta run it someday. No problems with Motul, it's what Archer racing has recommended.
Thanks Allan, I have some specs already, just wanted to compare with others that drive to the track.
Thanks Allan, I have some specs already, just wanted to compare with others that drive to the track.
try useing some water wetter
I'd definitely try it. I'm certain we have vendors that can send you an SCT tune that just modifies the fan turn on temperatures for a reasonable cost. I also have the Roe fascia duct and I do believe it helps more on the track than highway/street driving. Awesome to hear you are pushing the Viper ******* the track so much, I wish there were more tracks around here for me.
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