All Motor - Stage 1 & 2 Plans

[Guy]

So, here's the idea:

I want to mod the beast. Street driveability is number 1 in importance, Power is the next most important item, Cost is the third item..

No Supercharger or Turbo suggestions in this thread please. The engine bay should appear as stock as possible.


Here is my plan :

All Motor - Stage 1 - Bolton type mods

- Short Shifter (MGW?)
- Headers
- Exhaust
- Race Catalytic Converter
- Air filters (K&N?)
- ECU retune/flash (SCT?)
- Suspension (Moton?)
- A real roll-bar for safety instead of the decorative hoops (Autoform?)

DONE: Better tires than runflats

ALWAYS WORKING ON: improving the driver (Believe it or not, I've even done the Skip Barber course back when they had GTS ACRs )

More complicated stuff:
- Solid Engine mounts
- Solid Gearbox mounts
- Quaife Diff
- Final Drive gear to suit current and future All-Motor mods

+ Do I need to do anything to the brakes?

+ Am I missing any bolt-on type mods that will improve the car's driveability and/or handling? Any safety measures?


(At a future date, or in parallel have a new engine being prepared)
All Motor - Stage 2 - Engine Internals Etc..

- Stryker Heads?
- Clutch & Flywheel?
- Talk to Ilmor?
- Fully built engine?

Let's hear it!!

 

[2001 GTS]

Call GREG GOOD!!!!

 

[Kai SRT10]

What is your goal? Do you track the car? Are you looking to drag race the car?

I have a rather extensive all-motor build on my car. What you do really should depend on what your vision is for the car.

 

[Guy]

Call GREG GOOD!!!!

I want people's opinions before calling up shops etc..

What is your goal? Do you track the car? Are you looking to drag race the car?

I have a rather extensive all-motor build on my car. What you do really should depend on what your vision is for the car.

We currently don't have good tracks where I live, so I'd focus on an "in-betweener", more of a street car that will do OK in Drag racing.

 

[SquadX]

I would do a stroker motor and Stryker head/cam or Greg good head/cam Or have Greg good port a set of strykers (flow 390s) and sct flash. If you don't do a stroker there's no need to go into the engine unless you just want a stronger engine.

 

[SquadX]

Full exhaust, radiator, blah blah blah.

 

[Darbgnik]

Sorry to hijack, but on this topic, people run paxtons on stock internals to gain 200 rwhp, so the engine has to make an extra 250+ hp to compensate for running the blower. Why is it always recommended to do the bottom end when you go all motor for the same rwhp? You'd think all motor would be easier on everything, as theres no power wasted pushing a blower and no extra heat from the same?

 

[SquadX]

Sorry to hijack, but on this topic, people run paxtons on stock internals to gain 200 rwhp, so the engine has to make an extra 250+ hp to compensate for running the blower. Why is it always recommended to do the bottom end when you go all motor for the same rwhp? You'd think all motor would be easier on everything, as theres no power wasted pushing a blower and no extra heat from the same?

Scratching my head on that as well. If I was not stroking the motor and going NA, I wouldn't touch the engine. Money can be better spent else where.

 

[2001 GTS]

I want people's opinions before calling up shops etc..

I have a thread in the GEN2 section documenting my entire all motor build. My own goal was to have great driveability first but the power to boot. I have both...and Greg Good was the brain behind my entire build. 600rwhp on the stock 488ci displacement without throwing a lot of timing in it yet.

 

[plumcrazy]

i dont know of any NA SRT engines at the 600rwhp mark that isnt fully BUILT. are there any ?

i wouldnt want to risk it on a non forged motor personally

 

[Nader]

I have spoken with several tuners who mentioned you can run 580-600rwhp on a stock bottom end.

 

[steponz]

For NA you don't need forged...

I would do the motor up..........

 

[Guy]

For what it's worth, Ilmor (at VOI X) told me that 600rwhp is "mostly bolt-ons".. I don't need to buy a whole engine from them. If I recall correctly, it included a cam, and some other parts here and there.. No porting, aftermarket heads, cranks, pistons etc.. Instead the guy there mentioned some pulleys, throttle bodies and so on.

What I'm trying to get out of this is a successful formula for increasing HP the Naturally Aspirated way. I reckon it will pass visual inspections easily (i.e. appear stock), be more reliable than forced induction and I would have to worry about less parts going wrong..