Battery Removal Thread?

[carguy07]

Where did it go? Trying to help out a friend and it had good pics.

 

[plumcrazy]

take off rear drivers side wheel,take off cover,unbolt battery,reach in,grab and pull out.

pretty simple stuff

 

[RevHeat]

Just like Plum said, however, I will provide even more detail:

Steps:

(1) Disconnect Positive terminal under hood
(2) Jack up LR
(3) Remove LR wheel
(4) Remove rear fender liner
(5) Remove hold-down bolts
(6) Disconnect battery leads
(7) Remove battery
(8) Install new battery
(9) Install hold down bolts and attach leads
(10)Reconnect positive terminal under hood
(11)Check to see if battery works (i.e. turn on radio) Attention: (careful on jacks)
(12)Re-install fender liner and wheel

Total time is 45 minutes to 1 hour.

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[carguy07]

Thanks, I've done it a dozen times but that first one is always a pain.

 

[plumcrazy]

good one RevHeat.....

 

[luc]

What is the reason for doing so?
Luc00GTS

"(1) Disconnect Positive terminal under hood"

 

[Steve-Indy]

EASY to do with the right stuff:

Here are a couple of minor suggestions to help speed the battery change along...from one of my old posts:

"
It's not a bad job...goes well if you plan ahead and have tools ready.

Use a 3/4" (or 19mm) socket to remove left rear wheel. Then use 8mm, 11mm, and 10mm sockets to remove fasteners on splash shield in rear of fender well, and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the plastic push pin that holds the battery cover to the splash guard...now disconnect the battery using 5/16" socket, and use a 1/2" socket to remove battery clamp.

Inspect the tray carefully...you will likely see corrosion...if so, neutralize it CAREFULLY by scrubbing with water and baking soda. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR to clean this out !!!
After the area dries, I usually use a wire brush on an electric drill (wearing goggles and a respirator/face mask) to remove all remaining oxidation caused by the acid and/or rust. I wipe the tray WELL with rags, then allow it to dry. Then, after a couple more wipe-downs with ethyl alcohol to remore moisture, debris, and oils... I coat the tray bottom and sides with Rustoleum primer 2-3 times...and when dry, hit it with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black "engine gloss" even a semi-gloss. I have found that a used pizza box slid right under the battery tray makes a great "paint booth". After this is completely dry, install new battery (I PREFER a 75 series as they ALWAYS fit our various Vipers...and I always use a Sears Die-Hard Gold...noting that the LEAST amout of usage that these batteries have given me is 6.75 years). Then put it back together.

Note: SOME 94's will not start after battery disconnect...so you might wish to try it before installing the covers. If you have troubie...call me...or do a "search".

I do use a 9 volt battery plugged into the cigarette lighter...which maintains the clock and radio settings for a reasonable time.

HAVE FUN...and don't drop your Viper on yourself !!!"

 

[ViperJay]

rev, where did you jack it up? on the rail from the back end?

 

[Steve-Indy]

When I change batteries on Gen I's and II's (and my lift is "occupied") I just use the standard jack point at the rear end of the driver's side sidesill...and, place a jackstand under the frame to be safe. Admittedly, I prefer to use a low rise lift to raise the whole Viper but it really is not necessary.

Suggested reading...ViperTony's illustrated guide on this subject...complete with battery tray cleaning instructions and photos:

http://forums.viperclub.org/illustrated-upgrades/613276-battery-tray-cleaning-guide-photos.html