mykes
Viper Owner
UP coming track day,(first time).What way would be best to change the fluid,the old school way,pump pump bleed or buy the tool from auto store.At the end of the day is it all the same?
brake fluid change
- Thread starter mykes
- Start date
Sweet Ride
Enthusiast
I always like the pump, pump, bleed method. The vacuum bleeders I have used never gave me the results I expected.
Consider using ATE Super Blue brake fluid. When you start getting blue fluid out the bleeder screws you know you have done a complete bleed. I know that the TireRack sells it.
You can follow it up on your next track day with the regular ATE brake fluid which is the standard yellow color. When you get yellow fluid out the bleeder screws you know you have done a complete bleed.
Consider using ATE Super Blue brake fluid. When you start getting blue fluid out the bleeder screws you know you have done a complete bleed. I know that the TireRack sells it.
You can follow it up on your next track day with the regular ATE brake fluid which is the standard yellow color. When you get yellow fluid out the bleeder screws you know you have done a complete bleed.
The easiest method is to install Speed Bleeders. I installed them on my Viper 3 years ago and even though I have a Mityvac I still use my foot and the speed bleeders to bleed brakes. Simple and fast especially at the track. I use the Mityvac on all my other cars and it works great at getting the diff fluid out of the Viper too. Either one you can't go wrong.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
Pump and bleed is the best, I've used a vacuum bleeder to take out most of the fluid but then pump and bleed afterwards. Works great for the track, use Castrol SRF 
ViperGeorge
Enthusiast
Use a turkey baster like bulb thingy to **** some of the old fluid out of the master first and then refill with fresh stuff. This reduces how much bleeding you have to do.
If you can find a clear plastic tube that will fit tightly enough on the bleeder you can put the other end in a clear bottle with some clean brake fluid in the bottom. Open the bleeder and pump the brakes slowly several times. the old fluid will go into the bottle and as long as the tubing fits tightly then no air will enter. This is quicker than using the pump, pump, pump, hold routine. You can always finish off by tightening the bleeder and then have an assistant pump, pump, pump, hold, crack the bleeder and check for air bubbles. Repeat until no air. Always work from the furthest wheel from the master to the closest. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
I've also had good luck with the old fashioned gravity bleed. Attach tight fitting tubing to one, two, or all of the bleeders. Put the other end in a clear bottle with clean fluid in the bottom. Crack the bleeders and let gravity take over. Remember to check fluid in mastet periodically. Again, as long as the tubes are tight and you don't over loosen the bleeders, air will not enter. You'll have clean fluid and a firm pedal.
If you can find a clear plastic tube that will fit tightly enough on the bleeder you can put the other end in a clear bottle with some clean brake fluid in the bottom. Open the bleeder and pump the brakes slowly several times. the old fluid will go into the bottle and as long as the tubing fits tightly then no air will enter. This is quicker than using the pump, pump, pump, hold routine. You can always finish off by tightening the bleeder and then have an assistant pump, pump, pump, hold, crack the bleeder and check for air bubbles. Repeat until no air. Always work from the furthest wheel from the master to the closest. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
I've also had good luck with the old fashioned gravity bleed. Attach tight fitting tubing to one, two, or all of the bleeders. Put the other end in a clear bottle with clean fluid in the bottom. Crack the bleeders and let gravity take over. Remember to check fluid in mastet periodically. Again, as long as the tubes are tight and you don't over loosen the bleeders, air will not enter. You'll have clean fluid and a firm pedal.
RoadiJeff
Viper Owner
What's the reason for putting clean fluid in the bottom of the drain bottle?
I've always used a cheap one-man gadget I bought from AutoZone many years ago. I think it was less than $10. It mainly consists of a plastic bottle with a magnet for attaching to the metal frame or wherever and a one-way valve so air doesn't get sucked back into the line. It also has a couple of plastic hoses with some tips that you jam into the bleeder.
After you have everything connected you just sit and pump the pedal 5-6 times until either the bottle is nearly full or clean fluid starts to come out and then move on to the next caliper. It works pretty well and even has a lifetime guarantee against breakage. I had to get it replaced once - no hassle.
ViperGeorge
Enthusiast
The fluid in the bottle is to prevent air from entering the tube and hence the bleeder. I guess it doesn't have to be clean though but that's what I usually have available before I bleed the brakes. I've also tried the plastic bottle thing that you refer to. It works ok bit I find a Snapple bottle on the floor with tight fitting lines work better. The magnet on the plastic bottle never seemed to stick that well and most of the Viper is plastic or aluminum. The ends that you jam into the bleeder don't seem to seal as well either. Just my thoughts.
All Blue ACR
Enthusiast
speed bleeders and a turkey baster; only way IMO
The colored fluid is a good idea though.
Mykes; what ya bringing to Race City??? Going for the sunday drive & BBQ?
The colored fluid is a good idea though.
Mykes; what ya bringing to Race City??? Going for the sunday drive & BBQ?
mykes
Viper Owner
Hey thanx for all the posts.I'll be bringing my 05 silver vert srt10,but i can't make the BBQ.I want too see what a old motocrosser can do on a road race track.Can't wait i feel like i'm 10 years old and gonna go to the go carts with my 3 brothers on a sunday afternoon,after working all week long for my father.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
I use my Vacula to **** the fluid out of the reservior, refill then start the process at the calipers using the Vacula to pull the fluid. Castrol SRF for me only in my tracker.
Fast Viper Dan
Enthusiast
I use Motul 600 in my Viper and my Panoz Race car.
Many ways to bleed, take your pick. Me, I look for a stray girl friend to pump the old fashion way.
Many ways to bleed, take your pick. Me, I look for a stray girl friend to pump the old fashion way.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
speed bleeder folks
do you have a part number (02 abs) and how many per caliper, the speed bleeder website only lists 92-97 vipers and the nice lady at speed bleeder was not sure it they are the same
tia
do you have a part number (02 abs) and how many per caliper, the speed bleeder website only lists 92-97 vipers and the nice lady at speed bleeder was not sure it they are the same
tia
I am interested in the speed bleeder part number for 05? Also, what is the best place to get them? Ebay?
You'll need a quick search...but, BE SURE that you get the correct part as the bleeder screw threads on SRT era Vipers (03 on)are different than on 92-02.
By my memory, slaughterj posted this info in the not too distant past.
By my memory, slaughterj posted this info in the not too distant past.
Nixon's SRT
Enthusiast
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do you need to trigger the ABS module on Gen 3 to get all the fluid changed? Or can you just do the methods listed above?
eucharistos
Enthusiast
(i did search but failed)
fine info and great memory, thanks
search results based on your parameters: http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/597490-brake-bleeders-size.html
much gen 2/3 info here
read all the posts
seems like a lot of interest now, enough for a group/bulk buy
i just sayin
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1HOTV10
Enthusiast
Contact Jon B He has the inventory now of Dave's big Brakes.
2001 GTS
Enthusiast
I just did this myself, I completely flushed and replaced the brake and clutch fluid with Motul 600. I did the gravity bleed at first, then did the pump method starting with the passenger side rear and working from the farthest point first.
