Brake Pad Wear - Feedback needed

[escapedan]

Good evening all,

I went to change my pads and rotors tonight and when I visually inspected the ones currently on the car they looked pretty meaty still. Based on the attached photos, should these pads be replaced? They have about 6mm of material left. (First two photos are rear, Second two are front)

I also realized I dont have the proper tool to remove the calibers - a huge allen wrench? Is there anything particularly difficult about changing the pads and rotors on a Viper? I've done plenty of brake jobs on "normal" cars, but this would be the first time on a Viper.

This is on a 2006 Coupe First Edition with 20k miles. Some autocross and track days on it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

why are you changing them? Looks like you have plenty of pad left. the only hard part is dealing with the e-brake caliper...need a special tool for that

 

[escapedan]

I just assumed they needed to be changed. The rotors are grooved and have a slight "lip" on the edge of the rotors. When I took the wheels off, I noticed the amount of pad left and figured I'd throw it to the people on the board.

 

[Flexx91]

You don't need to remove the calipers to change the pads. You simply drive out the two retaining pins with a small drift and a hammer (a small diameter drill bit small enough to fit the inside diameter of the holes will work) from the outboard side of the caliper. Once the pins are removed the clip will fall out. Pull out the pads. To reinstall, use your fingers to press the caliper pistons back into the caliper. Install the new pads, insert the pins through the inboard holes of the caliper and the holes of the inboard pad. Install the clip and push the pins all the way in. Use a small socket with a short extension to drive in the retaining pins. Very easy job.

Changing the front or rear rotors will require you to remove the two 10mm allen head bolts used to secure the calipers. For the rear rotors, you will also need to the remove the 6mm allen head and 15mm bolts uused to secure the parking brake calipers. Using a large allen wrench would not be a good idea due the fact that you'll need to make sure the 10mm allen bolts are torqued to 85 ft-lbs.

 

[escapedan]

Much appreciated. Any advice on the existing pads needing replacement?

 

[Flexx91]

From the looks of things, you have plenty of pad material left. If you have an extra $200 bucks or so to spend, you can always add "cleaner" (ceramic) aftermarket pads which will keep your wheels cleaner.

 

[RobZilla]

If you are insisting on changing the rotors... Change the pads as well.

Be careful which ceramic pads you choose. Less dusty pads in my experience do not provide the same stopping performance.

 

[Black Moon]

Much appreciated. Any advice on the existing pads needing replacement?

Pull them out and inspect them. Look for hairline cracks, deterioration or glazed (hard and shinny). Mine had a ton of material but were glazed over and very cracked so I replaced them. Plus you can buy good pads and not spend $200. PM me for info.

If they are just glazed you can resurface them with some course emory paper and a flat surface. Don't use sandpaper!

As far as the rotors if they have deep groves, remove them and have them turned for about $10-$15 each and install with new pads. I never do one without the other. Change pads/ turn rotors. Turn rotors/ change pads.

You can pick up a set of allen head sockets cheap at any auto parts store or expensive at sears or snap on.

Plus pick up a few cans of brake cleaner. Put down newspaper or rags and spray everything off. Spray the pads and you'll be able to better see cracks.

Brakes on a viper are pretty easy. Also check your brake fluid. At 20k it may need changing. If its dark change it.

Good luck

 

[Viper X]

Hard to tell by the pictures but looks like you have plenty of brake pad left if your primary use is "street".

FYI, my first brake pad / rotor change on my 04 SRT-10 was at 40K miles. The pads and rotors were still working fine and within spec. I just changed them because it seemed like time to change them.

This would be a good time to upgrade your rotors to the ACR - Stoptech Aero Rotors - call Jon B at Partsrack. You won't like the way your OE rotors look if you "cut" or "turn" them.

Now, the brake fluid is another deal. Brake fluid should really be changed every year or two regardless of mileage. Brake fluid will absorb water and adversely affect your stopping distances.

Good luck,

Dan