Brand new battery dead...AGAIN!

[uvbnbit]

I'm posting this for Kand3g. He'll probably add a little more later when he gets home.
Fairly new battery (2 yrs old) was deader than dead last week. Replaced it under full warranty (WalMart), and 3 days later....DEAD. Alarm was not set, nothing on.
Question is, what would drain battery so fast with nothing on? Where does he begin to check? Could Walmart battery be that bad?
Thanks all.

 

[uvbnbit]

oh yeah, stock '98 RT/10

 

[97snk]

Is it an optima?

 

[Bandit400]

Just replaced mine and went with an Odyssey AGM battery. Definately a premium for these at $270 with shipping, but no worries about fit since they make it in the correct 78 group battery size with no top terminals. They also have a full replacement warranty for the first three years, no prorating.

ODYSSEY Batteries

I had an Optima and it failed after I drained it by leaving my radar detector on for two weeks. The optima would no longer take any charge once it was fully drained.

Bandit400

 

[cyaford]

I'm posting this for Kand3g. He'll probably add a little more later when he gets home.
Fairly new battery (2 yrs old) was deader than dead last week. Replaced it under full warranty (WalMart), and 3 days later....DEAD. Alarm was not set, nothing on.
Question is, what would drain battery so fast with nothing on? Where does he begin to check? Could Walmart battery be that bad?
Thanks all.

Did he personally pick out the new battery? If not, is it possible they may have tested it and just put it on a charger? When my battery went "dead", it tested as good. I insisted on a replacement and have been good ever since, mainly due to the Batter Tender(thanks JonB) I leave it hooked up to in between long periods of inactivity.

 

[TrackAire]

Here are a couple of things I've learned about AMG batteries. We sell a dual battery managment system from Switzerland and deal with the electrical engineer that owns the company and he specializes in batteries and battery charging. He has lots of experience setting up military vehicle, emergency vehicles, ect.

1) His favorite AGM battery is the Odyssey. In the USA, you can save about $50.00 and get a much better non-prorated warranty if you buy the unit from Sears under the name Platinum Diehard. They are private labeled for Sears by Odyssey.

2) AGM's often like a higher recharging voltage compared to a wet cell battery. His favorite charger goes by the name C-Tek and is available in the USA through most major automotive retailers (like Summit Racing). They have them mini sized like the better known Battery Tender.

3) I'm not convinced that a AGM battery is the best, but I use them since they do not leak and have never been documented to explode. An exploding wet cell battery can cause a lot of electrical problems, not to mention human danger if you're near them when they let go.

Cheers,
George

 

[George Farris]

Have used WalMart batteries in my Vipers - no issues.

 

[eucharistos]

.....
1) His favorite AGM battery is the Odyssey. In the USA, you can save about $50.00 and get a much better non-prorated warranty if you buy the unit from Sears under the name Platinum Diehard. They are private labeled for Sears by Odyssey.
....

thanks for the info george

 

[Dan Cragin]

You need to check for a draw, 1998 had some alarm modules that would not "time out". Make sure the mirror light is not on.

 

[uvbnbit]

Did he personally pick out the new battery? If not, is it possible they may have tested it and just put it on a charger? When my battery went "dead", it tested as good. I insisted on a replacement and have been good ever since, mainly due to the Batter Tender(thanks JonB) I leave it hooked up to in between long periods of inactivity.

The battery he replaced 2 yrs ago was maintained with a tender (I think). When he took it back, nothing would even register on their tester. As far as I know, they replaced it with a new one. 3 days later, dead again. Ken, anything you want to add? Make it home yet?

 

[uvbnbit]

You need to check for a draw, 1998 had some alarm modules that would not "time out". Make sure the mirror light is not on.

THat's kinda what we're wanting to find out. How do you check for this "draw" on the battery? Where does he start?

 

[bigmack339]

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Place a multimeter lead on the negative battery terminal and the other lead on the negative battery cable.
3. What is the voltage reading? This determines what the parasitic draw is.
4. start pulling fuses until the number dissapears. That fuse is the power robbing circuit.
5. repair the problem then have a beer.

 

[uvbnbit]

Great. Thanks all for the replies.
Ken, let us know what you find out.

 

[Steve-Indy]

A couple of pointers: The "Ignition-Off Draw Test" is well described in the service manual. This is to be done with all accessories off, key out of ignition, doors etc. closed...AND, done only afer the various time out circuits have had time to shut off (stated as up to 3 minutes) If one connects the digital multimeter as described above...set it to read in amps, then milliamps...one may initially note high settings IF the circuits are still functioning during the first 3 minutes. After that point, the drain read by the multimeter should not exceed 35 milliamps for a Viper. There is a recent post of the draw of various circuits. Sequential fuse removal will help find circuit with excessive drain.

BE SURE that one has the windows down during this test...as it is easy to pull a door lock fuse, and find that you now are locked in or out since interior door handles/exterior buttons will not function with fuse out...even harder to overcome in a coupe with a roll cage that blocks emergency releases...been there, done that...thanks to Tom Sessions we got out of that trap.

More that one Viper owner has been sold a bad battery...occasionally, 2 in a row!!

 

[kand3g]

Thanks to all for the info and to Chip for posting for me last night. It sounds as if I should start my testing with the security system. Any suggestions and tips are appreciated. I plan to start work this evening if time allows. Thanks.

 

[1TONY1]

Do the door handle LED's stay on after one minute of the doors being closed ?

 

[Jerry Scott[CO]]

Make sure that the hood release is not open. This will cause a drain on the battery, at least in my 97. Without a charger on the battery, with the hood open, the battery will discharge in a few days.
Jerry

 

[99 R/T 10]

I had this happen to 2 batteries. Turned out that someone had turned on the map light under the rear view mirror................

 

[JonB]

The first two things to check have been stated and are
----"Courtesy Light" under the rear-view mirrors
----"LED Light" on the door-lock switch. "ON" after 1 minute means an alarm circuit is OPEN, usually on the hood hinge R side, or on the hatch back glass. ADJUST THEM. Could be an EEU module, but rare.

What did you find?

 

[Madduc]

Make sure that the hood release is not open. This will cause a drain on the battery, at least in my 97. Without a charger on the battery, with the hood open, the battery will discharge in a few days.
Jerry

???? I can leave my hood open for a week and it still starts fine.

 

[kand3g]

The first two things to check have been stated and are
----"Courtesy Light" under the rear-view mirrors
----"LED Light" on the door-lock switch. "ON" after 1 minute means an alarm circuit is OPEN, usually on the hood hinge R side, or on the hatch back glass. ADJUST THEM. Could be an EEU module, but rare.

What did you find?

Thanks JonB, Courtesy light off and LED light on the door-lock switch goes out after 1 min. After the door lock lights go out, I have 0.31 volt draw on the battery with the car unlocked and the alarm off. Is this normal?

 

[cyaford]

Thanks JonB, Courtesy light off and LED light on the door-lock switch goes out after 1 min. After the door lock lights go out, I have 0.31 volt draw on the battery with the car unlocked and the alarm off. Is this normal?

Hey Ken. Can you set the meter to amperage and post the results? mA, specifically.

 

[kand3g]

Ted, I'll run down and check. I need to re-check the draw after 3 mins. I'll let you know. Thanks

 

[JonB]

Thanks JonB, Courtesy light off and LED light on the door-lock switch goes out after 1 min. After the door lock lights go out, I have 0.31 volt draw on the battery with the car unlocked and the alarm off. Is this normal?

I am the guy who believes that electricity is merely densely-compacted SMOKE PARTICLES, moving as needed inside colored vinyl sheaths. {And, I have PROVED this on occasion, esp in my British car days, by letting the smoke particles OUT! }

It is good that the LED lights are out, and alram off........... and a third of a volt should NOT eat a battery in a day!

 

[kand3g]

I am the guy who believes that electricity is merely densely-compacted SMOKE PARTICLES, moving as needed inside colored vinyl sheaths. {And, I have PROVED this on occasion, esp in my British car days, by letting the smoke particles OUT! }

It is good that the LED lights are out, and alram off........... and a third of a volt should NOT eat a battery in a day!

I think I will charge the "new" battery and have it checked at an auto parts store. Thanks, Ken

 

[97snk]

I had a similar issue not too long ago discussed in the following thread...

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/637285-battery-alternator-fuel-pump.html

 

[cyaford]

So....... when checking mA, is the proper procedure to disconnect one of the cables on the battery and apply one of the multimeter leads to the disconnected cable and one lead to the "bare" terminal? I want to make sure he's doing this correctly, as it's been a while since I've had to measure amperage. Thanks.

 

[kand3g]

So, I attempted to test for normal mA draw as outlined in the service manual. I admit I do not have an expensive voltmeter, but when I switch to mA, I do not get a reading and it causes the doors to rapidly to lock and unlock. Any suggestions? Thanks.