Building new garage - Need advice

[PDCjonny]

Probably not the right forum, but mods can move if needed.
Okay, so the time has come to knock down my detached 20 x 20 two car garage and build a new one. I would like to get some advice from other multiple car owners that have gone down this road. I'm having trouble in the layout and sizing primarily and would like to hear from others who have designed a garage and the things to avaoid or perhaps the things they wished they should had done from the start. Here are the paramaters of what I have to work with.

1. Town code has a maximum of 750 square feet for the structure, with a maximum height of 15 feet. Since I really don't want to go to the trouble of a variance to make it bigger, I have to work within that size limitation. I would have prefered to go bigger, but thats it. This will allow a garage of approximately 30 x 25, or 28 x 26.5 etc. i am thinking two 9 foot garage doors. Right now, thinking about keeping the above area as open as possible in case I want to put in a lift.

2. This will be for my two Vipers right now, I only want two cars in it. The important thing is I *must* have working room around the cars unlike now. By my estimation with the doors both open you need about 12 feet side to side around the car? Now I don't have to have room for both cars side to side with all four doors open but that wouldn't be bad either. So right there is almost 26(?) feet width. Am I better off going 30 feet wide and less depth? How much room realistically does someone need to move around the car?

3. I want to have room for workbench and tools of course, in cabinets. So in that respect they would be better along the back wall than the side I would assume. So how much depth would be best? Right now with the Viper in the garage and three feet behind it I have about four feet in front. If I went 30 x 25 that would give me five more feet. Am I better off with more depth the garage or more width?

Any advice would be appreciated. Although my garage will be detached the same principals apply to an attached as far as the working room. I want to get the layout most usable the first time, not wish I had done this or that later.

Please chime in!

 

[BlknBlu]

Whenever possible make the garage as big as you can in all directions. Here are a few items to think about.

Heat and Air
Pour concrete floor a little thicker to accomodate a lift.
Use the side pull garage door openers to give you more ceiling clearance
Plenty of outlets including a couple of 220's for compressor and lift
Insulate interior walls and have good vapor barrier on outside walls
Floor drain
Good overhead lighting
Water source
TV, radio and phone
Security system


Good luck
Bruce

 

[TrackAire]

One thing I really would like in a garage is a "drive through" ability...garage door front and rear if your lot layout will allow it. It gives the garage great ventilation and a much more open feeling. Great for boat or trailer storage if the layout allows it.

Enjoy your build...look forward to seeing your progress.

Cheers,
George

 

[PDCjonny]

One thing I really would like in a garage is a "drive through" ability...garage door front and rear if your lot layout will allow it. It gives the garage great ventilation and a much more open feeling. Great for boat or trailer storage if the layout allows it.

Enjoy your build...look forward to seeing your progress.

Cheers,
George

Interesting thought, but I need the wall space those rear doors would use.

 

[Lee00blacksilverGTS]

I would want my tool, working area to be at the end instead of the side, that's the way I'm set up now.
You would not want to walk around both cars to go get another wrench, shortest trip is to the front or back of either car. Also you will want some storage, and without taking up a lot of space you will be able to mount cabinets on at least one wall, perhaps a tire rack on the other.
My lift is a full size heavy duty and does not require 220. I am able to run everything I need off one 220 outlet in the tool area, basically one big compressor.
I would absolutely get a lift, stacking the cars allows you to set up the other side for a wide variety of temporary home projects that take up a lot of space and you can leave in place for a number of weeks while you finish them.
And for the crowning touch make sure you use these....they have them in all types. Home Depot carries the simpler ones also so you don't have to pay car guy tax on all of them.
Diamond Plate Switch Covers - Lighting & Power - In Your Garage - Griot's Garage

 

[Dr V]

My only comment. Make sure that your finished ceiling height is atleast 10.5 feet to accomadate a 4 post lift comfortably. Sounds like code wont allow 12ft ceilings for a 2 post. GOOD LUCK.

 

[TrackAire]

ViperJon,

Even if you can put a single garage door on one side, I've found that it makes life so much nicer. You can increase your storage by using rolling tool boxes or cabinets to put in front the "extra" garage door if more storage space is needed.

Regarding tool storage, I keep about 90% (the common stuff you use when doing service or wrenching) of everything I need in a rolling tool workstation so I can roll it to the job. Saves a lot of time and needless trips to the giant tool cabinet most people tend to have. If you're working on the rear of the car, you just roll your work station tool box to that area. With our cars having metric and SAE,...who knows what socket set to drag out

Cheers,
George

 

[Mopar Boy]

Agreed to all. Also consider a wide door to clear a car trailer in th event you needed to back it in for a night.

Also think about water (greasy hands), parts storage area, floor drain so water drains, hoist area with stronger floor, fridge, bar, etc.

LOTS of parking! For dims, I find that 30' deapth is great. You have room to clear front and rear, plus workbench and room to open its drawers and doors.

Max 15' Eh? I say raise the dirt on four sides (even if temporary) and build taller!

 

[HyperViper]

Were you thinking 9' wide doors or 9' high? I have had 9' and 8' wide doors and while the 9' width is much easier to get through, I would probably consider 2)10 foot wide doors and 8 feet high. Would make parking a breeze.

Is the 750' max measured inside or out? Something to make sure of and also, I think you will gobble up that 15' max height real quick with any kind of inside height so design accordingly.

 

[Black Moon]

I'd go for the variance. I built mine 40 x40 and wished i had gone deeper. You need 12'6" ceiling height for a 12' 2 post lift. I poured my concrete thicker at the lift pads but found out only 4" wasneeded. Slope the floor at least 3" to a center drain. I went less and water puddles. My outside walls are 10' with a 13' trayed ceiling running the width of the garage.

Lighting is critical. I used 'Highbay' flourescent fixtures. They are about $125 each but with only 6 it is like an operating room at night.

I used some 1'x5' horizontal windows above my tool benches. They add just enough daylight for the room.

Seal/ paint the floor before using it for storage.

Heat and cool it if you are going to work in it. Also put in a couple of industrial ceiling fans.Mine were $39 at Home Depot and they will part your hair when on high.

Send me a pm with your email and i'll send some photos. I'd add them here but never figured out how to upload.

I'm a licensed builder so any questions please feel free to ask.
Sal

 

[PDCjonny]

Were you thinking 9' wide doors or 9' high? I have had 9' and 8' wide doors and while the 9' width is much easier to get through, I would probably consider 2)10 foot wide doors and 8 feet high. Would make parking a breeze.

Is the 750' max measured inside or out? Something to make sure of and also, I think you will gobble up that 15' max height real quick with any kind of inside height so design accordingly.

Def want 9' wide doors, not sure of height. Can't see needing more than eight feet, only pulling cars in. Unfortunately the 750 square feet is the overall dimension, so inside will have the space loss depending on wall thickness.

 

[LifeIsGood]

Also put in a regular door...you don't want to have to open one of the garage doors every time you want in .

 

[AFL in NJ]

For your concrete floor, consider using epoxy coated steel mesh within the concrete....if you plan a two post lift, sonotubes can be strategically placed with more epoxy coated mesh in the holes and your fasteners set in the soon to be drying concrete.

I'd also recommend as many 110 & 220 circuits as you think a crazy person might ever need, then add 2 more circuits. If you ever sell the house, some contractor may want your place over another simply because of this garage.

Regards,
Aaron

 

[v10enomous]

Not sure what roof pitch you plan but if the total height can only be 15' on the roof then build it with an insulated Cathedral Ceiling. Skylights would be a great option as well. Radiant heat in the Northeast here is also a good idea.

 

[plumcrazy]

floor drains
stripper pole
shiny disco ball

 

[red heat]

ViperJon,

I just finished building my detached garage last fall in CT. 11,000LB lift 3 bays, heat, racechecker stripes along wall. project ran me about 130K. I don't know how far you live from central CT. I would be more than happy to show you how it came out. seeing it means so much more. dimensions are 28 x 36 feet.
I went thru the same thought process that you are going thru...

 

[PDCjonny]

floor drains
stripper pole
shiny disco ball

Do I really need the floor drains?

 

[PDCjonny]

ViperJon,

I just finished building my detached garage last fall in CT. 11,000LB lift 3 bays, heat, racechecker stripes along wall. project ran me about 130K. I don't know how far you live from central CT. I would be more than happy to show you how it came out. seeing it means so much more. dimensions are 28 x 36 feet.
I went thru the same thought process that you are going thru...

Thank you Red, will keep that in mind.
Feel free to send any pictures if you have the time, my email: [email protected]

 

[Red Snake]

Whenever possible make the garage as big as you can in all directions.

Also put in a regular door...you don't want to have to open one of the garage doors every time you want in .

floor drains
stripper pole
shiny disco ball

^^These.

I made mine 36X28 for a 3 car. I have PLENTY of space side to side and front to back. I routinely put 4 cars in there. The only thing I wish I'd done differently is adding a regular door.

 

[past ohio]

Have at least one of the overhead doors to go over 12 feet high, in case you want to store a trailer and/or for resale if you sell the castle someone else may want to put in a big boat or Winnebago !!
Make sure the slab is wrapped on the outside to keep it warmer in the winter, put in at least a ****** or commode, with a wash up sink, tie it in to your homes security system (if your house has one) also put in the smoke/carbon monoxide detectors also linked to the house as well, put in spare house phones... IF you have a problem with the height because of code, "my saying is, either raise the bridge or lower the river " in other words, dig down and have a bay at least go down 1 or 2 feet to handle the max height view....especially the outside topography may make this all possible !!?? Also have a room upstairs or to one side to put parts in, especially not immediately viewable, because parts sitting around isn't always a pretty sight !! I could go on for hours....good luck....my $.02

 

[2snakes4us]

This is a Must!!! more secure because of deadbolt and gain air space and you wont regret it

YouTube - Chapter 1 - LiftMaster 3800 Introduction Video

 

[white out]

There are a lot of good threads on 6speed.com & l4p.com regarding garages.

Good luck with the build, and my jealousy is growing.

Nick

 

[Lee00blacksilverGTS]

Def want 9' wide doors, not sure of height. Can't see needing more than eight feet, only pulling cars in. Unfortunately the 750 square feet is the overall dimension, so inside will have the space loss depending on wall thickness.

All you need is 9 ft height if you are stacking Vipers. That's exactly what I have. Can even use a standard height door and standard center location closer as long as you back the top car in.
Door easily clears the low hood when backed in.
Backing ain't easy though, when you go up the ramps there is no mirror angle in the known universe that will allow you a view of where those fat rear tires are on the ramps. I finally attached full length mirrors to the rear posts.

 

[eucharistos]

good thread,

wish it was started 4 yrs ago

 

[Matt M PA]

We finished a detached garage project almost 2 years ago and I learned a bunch.

Mine is 32wx26d with 9' ceilings over two bays....and open to almost the ceiling in one bay. The reasoning? I wanted a 4 post in the one bay, but wanted upstairs storage in the other.

Our area too had a height restriction, but I'd check to see if it's a "maximum" or "median". Ours was "median". Which means that it's not the very tip of the peak...but the middle point between the peak and the end of the roof (gutter area, let's say).

I was very fortunate to work with a company here in PA, called Stoltzfus Structures to build my garage. They arrived with most of the building assembled in pieces and were done in two days. (Cement was already done)

As far as garage door clearance; my lift bay door follows the garage roof as opposed to going at the 90 degree angle most do which maximized my height internally.

Size. When the Viper is in this garage, there's tons of room front and back. When I park my Excursion in one bay....it's a bit tighter as it's a bit longer than a Viper. I avoided putting cabinets, etc along the sides. I think they get in the way. All my boxes, benches, etc are along the back wall. For Vipers only...I'd try to go 26 deep and get the rest in width so the door can open.

Hope this helps.

 

[PDCjonny]

Matt-
Would love to see pictures of your garage, you are just around the size I will be.
Do you have any pic's with the car IN the gaage?
My email is above-

 

[v10enomous]

So Stoltzfus is good ? I'v gotten a few quotes from them and they seem to have great pricing. I'm going to do a detached garage but seems like every time I get ready to pull the trigger something comes up. Plus I dread the tought of a tax re-assessment and dealing with NJ building codes. When I do get one built Stoltzfus seems to be the way to go so it's good to hear an endorsement...

When I built my first house back in 1983 it was a modular so I have an appreciation for pre-fabs.

We finished a detached garage project almost 2 years ago and I learned a bunch.

Mine is 32wx26d with 9' ceilings over two bays....and open to almost the ceiling in one bay. The reasoning? I wanted a 4 post in the one bay, but wanted upstairs storage in the other.

Our area too had a height restriction, but I'd check to see if it's a "maximum" or "median". Ours was "median". Which means that it's not the very tip of the peak...but the middle point between the peak and the end of the roof (gutter area, let's say).

I was very fortunate to work with a company here in PA, called Stoltzfus Structures to build my garage. They arrived with most of the building assembled in pieces and were done in two days. (Cement was already done)

As far as garage door clearance; my lift bay door follows the garage roof as opposed to going at the 90 degree angle most do which maximized my height internally.

Size. When the Viper is in this garage, there's tons of room front and back. When I park my Excursion in one bay....it's a bit tighter as it's a bit longer than a Viper. I avoided putting cabinets, etc along the sides. I think they get in the way. All my boxes, benches, etc are along the back wall. For Vipers only...I'd try to go 26 deep and get the rest in width so the door can open.

Hope this helps.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I'd go for the variance.

+1. It's too big of job to go to the trouble of building a garage and not make it as big as possible. I know I'd be kicking myself for not getting a variance.

I'd also consider telescoping doors. They're quieter and save a lot of room.

 

[Matt M PA]

ViperJon...My Viper is usually in the house garage...so I can take some pics and post 'em.

v10enomous...Stoltzfus were great to work with and I'd recommend them without hesitation.

It may be a good ride for either of you guys...but you are welcome to come see mine if it would help.

There are pics of mine on the Stoltzfus site....but I'm not sure it's within the rules here to list a link? A search will find it right away, and
it's on the "Built on Site" page. There's a '56 Olds, Mustang and Excursion inside.

 

[past ohio]

Not sure if fully discussed, BUT make sure the interior is "clear span" and no support posts inside, makes storage a nightmare !!