Caliper install Qs

sirhc76

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Posts
283
Reaction score
0
Installing a set of powder coated calipers and SS line. What type of thread locker if any should be used on the bleeder valves. As pointed out in PM not really thread lock. I only ask because it appears the speed bleeders have some sort of red compound on them when viewed online. These are the valves that were previously installed in the calipers. Should I replace the old bleeder valves, are these parts that are stocked at most AP stores.

I went to the local parts house for crush washers assuming they would stock these in various sizes. The guy had to rob crush washers from lines that he had in stock. From what I can tell there are varying sizes on the washers. The bolts appear to be 10MM and the new washers appear to have the same OD/ID although they look a little thick. I'm assuming this is because the old ones were well crushed slightly. Should I be concerned about these and buy/order ones that I know are exact, if so what size should I be hunting down.

Thanks everyone.
 
Last edited:

Madduc

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Posts
510
Reaction score
0
Location
Fremont,MI
Are you using the stock bleeders? If so, NO thread locker!! How would you ever bleed them then?! On the crush washers, as long as they are the same diameter the difference in thickness will be fine.
 
OP
OP
S

sirhc76

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Posts
283
Reaction score
0
I figured out all my questions and have since installed the new calipers and stainless lines. My question should have read pipe compound/dope instead of thread locker. The OEM bleeders had nothing on them and all the aftermarket options that I looked into had compound on the threads.
 

Tom F&L GoR

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Posts
4,984
Reaction score
7
Location
Wappingers Falls
For the record, anything on the threads should not interfere with bleeding. When the bleeder screw is loose, the hole just above the conical seat allows brake fluid to escape up the middle of the hollow bleeder screw. The reason self-bleeders have some type of "goo" is because they have a spring loaded check valve. They allow fluid to go out the normal path, but when you release the brake pedal, the check valve closes and to make sure air is not sucked into the caliper, the "goo" has to provide some kind of sealing at the threads.
 
OP
OP
S

sirhc76

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Posts
283
Reaction score
0
Thanks Tom

I'm assuming that based on the various size Crush washers I found online there is an "exact" size which "should" be used. Trying to use a thicker washer will result in the banjo bolt not grabbing many threads in the rear calipers. Fortunately my local Dodge Dealer had 7 in stock at one location and 2 at another, PN 6502 114 if anyone ever searches this thread. The bleeder is PN 4720 990, assuming this is for a Gen 2
 

RTTTTed

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Posts
6,438
Reaction score
1
Crush washers difference might be as big as .020" That would be about a 1/8 thread/turn. New crush washers are recommended as new they have small ribs on them that crush ensuring a seal. I've always re-used mine and never had a leak or problem.

Ted
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,645
Posts
1,685,216
Members
18,221
Latest member
tractor1996
Top