Seems a bit tight by the bleeder on a Gen IV. Anyone able to get a can up there or do you just let it spray/drip down? I have a 4 post lift and have no problem reaching the bleed valve, but cant get a can in there to drip it. Thanks!
Changing Clutch Fluid
- Thread starter apeas2
- Start date
Steve M
Enthusiast
I had to let it spray/drip down for the most part...there was some that came out of the end that I got into a squished up solo cup, but the rest dripped internal to the bell housing and exited through the bottom.
Thanks Steve. Do you recall how much fluid it takes to flush? The reservoir doesn't appear to hold a whole lot.
Steve M
Enthusiast
I think I used about 0.5L or so...the fluid I use comes in 1L cans. It really doesn't take much at all...
F
FrgMstr
Guest
**** it out with a turkey baster, fill, pump, repeat a couple of times. Will get you to crystal clear fluid pretty quickly.
Brian E
Viper Owner
Exactly what I do. For those of us who also own late model Corvettes, they refer to this as the Ranger Method. I bought a new 427 Convertible this summer and after a hundred miles the clutch fluid had turned dark. Instead of a turkey baster I use a couple 2 ounce ear bulbs. One to remove the dirty fluid and another to fill the resevoir with new fluid. Works great.
You must be registered for see images attach
Brian E
Viper Owner
Right on. I got an assortment of those that I also use. The only issue I have using the syringes is the hose that you put on the end has a tendency to fling fluid when pulling it out of the resevoir.
You must be registered for see images attach
F
FrgMstr
Guest
It is a circulating system so yes, all the fluid will cycle through. Learned this when I toasted the clutch fluid on the Dustball Rally running hard for about 10 hours from Atlanta to Daytona. JonB advice to the rescue while on the road. So my "tool" was found at the nearest foot store. Now I need to go back and wrap the headers by the bell housing.
Flexx91
Viper Owner
I was wondering the same thing being that there is only one line from the fluid reservoir meaning no return line. Also, the shop procedure requires bleeding at the slave cylinder (which is the reason my local dealership charges $200).
Just wondering as I will need to do this within the next few weeks......
I bought a Mityvac a while back for brake and clutch bleeding. The thing is mostly useless but it came with a bunch of plastic cone shaped fittings. One of them fits inside the hole in the bleeder nut. Attach a hose and bottle, let it hang there and gravity does the rest. **** the fluid out of the reservoir and wipe the black crud out. Fill with fresh fluid and let it flow through until it comes out clean. Keep an eye on that reservoir during the process so it doesn't run dry.
NO HEMI
Enthusiast
can i use any clutch fluid? or do i need a " special" one.
F
FrgMstr
Guest
No, no special needed. Here is the official spec from Chrysler.
POWER STEERING FLUID
The recommended fluid for the power steering system is Mopar® Power Steering fluid + 4 or Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid. Both Fluids have the same material standard specifications (MS-9602).
Mopar® ATF+4 (and Mopar® Power Steering fluid + 4), when new, is red in color. ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, ATF+4 will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown. THIS IS NORMAL. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
The power steering system is filled-for-life at the factory and requires no regular maintenance. Although not required at specific intervals, the fluid level may be checked periodically. Check the fluid level anytime there is a system noise or fluid leak suspected. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Steve M
Enthusiast
For clutch fluid?
I believe for Gen 4, you use this although I found it for like $7 at Pep Boys
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4549625AD-Vehicle-Clutch/dp/B0089LTWWE
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4549625AD-Vehicle-Clutch/dp/B0089LTWWE
Sonoman
Enthusiast
I use Motul 600 high performance brake fluid. It doesn't take that much for a clutch, as mentioned. Been using this stuff for years on my Ducati and the cool thing about it (other than its high temperature capacity) is that it doesn't seem to eat paint like most brake fluids do. I've had it drip right on the $$$ Ducati bodywork for hours (painted plastic) with no ill effects-- the master cylinders are on the handlebars right over all the painted parts. So if you do happen to spatter your Viper bodywork with a dripping hose or whatever, the Motul should wipe off clean. In addition, it is commonly available at motorcycle shops if your local auto shop doesn't have it.
Flexx91
Viper Owner
I'm still curious to know how the clutch system can be deemed a "recirculating" system and you can do a complete (the key word is COMPLETE) fluid change by only removing the fluid in the reservior and "cycling" the clutch pedal.
Steve M
Enthusiast
I've used Ate Typ 200 DOT 4 fluid in the past, but if Motul 600 is available at motorcycle shops locally, I might try that instead since I always have to order the Ate fluid.
Viktimize
Enthusiast
You'll never get all of it with that method, but you'll get 99% of it.
What's the reason though that you can't just put a hose on the bleeder like with every other hydraulic clutch in existence? I have a Motive Power Bleeder, so that's the method I plan to use.
Flexx91
Viper Owner
I'm not saying that I won't use the bleed fitting at the slave cylinder which of course is the best method to extract the fluid. I'm just responding to earlier posts claiming to flush the system by simply sucking the fluid out of the reservoir which in my opinion, does little to the fluid in the lines and slave (no recirculation of the fluid).
I tried it with my car (actually went out and bought a bleeder just for this reason), but didn't have any luck. I think I might just have some junk in the tube or something, because it did start dripping out of the bottom of the bellhousing, but I never got a drop from the tip of the bleeder. The main issue is the bleeder "******" is actually a pretty big hex as opposed to the normal ****** shape like seen on brakes, so it's hard to get a hose to seat on it well.
Sonoman
Enthusiast
You can use a small zip-tie to seal a soft, flexible hose to the hex bleeder.
Viktimize
Enthusiast
I know what you were asking. After answering I was also wondering why nobody here does the full fluid swap with a bleeder hose.
Steve M
Enthusiast
I don't think it would matter to be honest...I think as soon as you crack the bleeder screw, fluid comes out the end as well as around the threads, hence why you get so much fluid dripping out the bottom of the bell housing.
At least that's been my experience.
Ummm, nobody? See my post...#13.
Viktimize
Enthusiast
I read your post, that gives no answer to the question though. I haven't really taken a good look at the set up yet, perhaps it will be really apparent once I look at it.
NO HEMI
Enthusiast
After reading this tread( last week), i decided to do the " ranger" method, and i can tell you it's a night and day difference on my car, i strongly recommend it and it only cost me about 10 dollars including the oil!!
