Considering buying a 2000 RT/10 Have questions

VIPER1996

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Hello, it's been a few years since I sold my 1996 Viper. I am looking at a 2000 with 6900 miles, one owner.

I had two Gen 1 cars, 1994 and 1996. Both had head gasket issues and the typical rivet problems on the exhaust covers.

What if anything do I need to look for on the 2000? I'm assuming the head gasket issue was fixed by then?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brett
 

TAXIMAN1

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No water pump issues. Impeller issue is on 2001's, and effects very few vehicles. 2000's are great cars. Steel Gray/Stripes + Black/Silver are 2 of the best color combos ever made on a GTS!!! In my opinion.

I bought a black/silver stripe 2000 GTS a few years back, which I sold. I regret selling it, to be honest... I remember supervising my black/silver 2000 while Reliable loaded it onto the truck. The whole time, asking myself. Why did I sell that car? It was just stunning to look at.

The only negative is lack of ABS. Which even if you don't plan on tracking the car. CAN be unsafe in an emergency stop situation. For me, I was on the hunt for a factory black/silver stripe car. So, I only had a choice between 99/00.

Good luck, I would say go for it.
 

Fatboy 18

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Power steering pulley, Crappy plastic, prone to shatter ;)

Smooth tubes?
Creampuff engine, If you plan on doing big mods You may need to change pistons.
Any Brake upgrades? 2000 (No ABS)
Any exhaust mods?
How old are tires?

Love my GTS to bits :2tu:

Mark
:uk:
 
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VIPER1996

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Thanks!

The car has 6900 miles with original tires. The tires look to good to be original but thats what he claims.

The car is bone stock so I definately will do exhaust and that is about it.

Is it neccessary to put headers on or will cat back do?

My last two vipers had Borla full exhaust systems.
 

Camfab

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You can check the validity of the tire age by checking the date code on the tires. I believe the Tire Rack website may have a complete explanation of this.
Headers are not necessary for a cat-back install.
 

steel snake

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For what it's worth my 2000 RT10 steel grey/cognac is solid with no problems yet. I bought it with 1700 mi and the previous owner had already done the exhaust (MP Borla) and it sounds awsome! The ABS/noABS debate will run forever. Personally I wouldn't let that stop me (no pun intended). My GTX doesn't have ABS and has survived all these years. Good luck.
 

PatentLaw

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You also have the lumpy cam, non lumpy cam issue on this car. Impeller issue was on 01. Only some cars had issues. Frame recall should be checked, I believe. Google/search it.

Hard color to find. Good luck if you decide to purchase.
 

PatentLaw

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They changed the cam between the creampuff engines and the non creampuff engines. The creampuff engines also had the hypereutetic pistons, vs. the non creampuff engines. There were no technical "issues" or problems as to the cam difference.

To some people, the creampuff v. non creampuff engines come down to the idle nature of the vehicles.

I preferred the creampuff as they actually had harder (but more mechanically fragile) mechanical pistons that will stand up better over time. Many manufacturers made this choice around the 2000 model year. If you want to have forced induction, then you may want to go with an older engine.

Frankly, if you are going to do open heart surgery on your vehicle and add forced induction, why you would not change or at least inspect your pistons is beyond me. We see it all the time from the people who do it, and then three months later complain about a bent rod or something else. They will state that bad engine mapping or some other issue caused it. The real reason is that they did an incomplete job, have little to no engineering intelligence, and slapped something on their engine without any idea of what or why they did it.

The piston issue should be of very little consequence to you if you know what you are doing. While you are at it, you can change the cam out as well, so there should be little difference.

You asked for the difference, so just giving you complete disclosure. What you want to do with the car ultimately is up to you.
 
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VIPER1996

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Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense!

I used to do a lot of Drag Racing in my 68 Cuda. I have a 680hp stroked 340 in it so I know the value of building a good engine combination.

I don't plan on doing anything to the Viper accept exhaust.

It will just be a fun toy once in a while.
 

PatentLaw

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Its great having someone who understands the total concept of what must be done. Hope it works out for you. Some great deals out there.
 

VENOMAHOLIC

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"Wanted" set the stock Viper 1/4 mile record in his 2000 RT/10 that lasted pretty much until the Gen IV came out. The front brakes are prone to lock in emergencies but they still work better than most other cars on the road. My harmonic damper fell off and had to be replaced and pinned to crank. I can't believe the low prices on them now for what you get. I love the styling on my RT/10 and do not plan on selling. I am torn for my next eventual Viper between another Gen II (GTS) or a Gen IV coupe.
 
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VIPER1996

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The first thing I need to do is find a good exhaust system for it.

My last two Vipers had Borla exhausts when I got them. I don't think I'll be happy with the stock exhaust.

I'll have a 4 hour drive home to get used to having a Viper again. I own a car dealership and have had several sweet cars but in my opinion nothing has the wow factor of a Gen 1 or 2 Viper.

I did consider buying a Gen 3 car but they just don't have that same old school muscle car feeling to me. JMO
 

SoCal Rebell

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I bought my 2000 RT/10 new and kept it about 3-4 years. The only major problem you could have is on the "early build" 2000s. About 200 of the early model year Vipers had a piston sleeve that sometime didn't let the rings seat right. My '00 RT was one of those cars, it burned a quart of oil every 75 miles.

The motor need to be pulled and set to Arrow for a complete rebuild which took 10 weeks :mad: Check the build date on the drivers side door jam, if it is after 11/99 you're good.

I put Belanger headers, catcacks and hi-flow cats, it was good for 25 rwhp and 40 rwtq. I also put on the Stoptech 4 wheel big brake system which worked great. I then road raced the crap out of it :D

Let me know if you need any first hand info, Ron.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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"Wanted" set the stock Viper 1/4 mile record in his 2000 RT/10 that lasted pretty much until the Gen IV came out. The front brakes are prone to lock in emergencies but they still work better than most other cars on the road. My harmonic damper fell off and had to be replaced and pinned to crank. I can't believe the low prices on them now for what you get. I love the styling on my RT/10 and do not plan on selling. I am torn for my next eventual Viper between another Gen II (GTS) or a Gen IV coupe.

ABS or not aside, the balance between how much the front and how much the rear brakes help to slow the car can be made much much closer to ideal with a simple rear brake swap. You may gain 40-50hp and the proper sound with engine upgrades, but you'll have greater confidence and give the car more overall ability with brakes that cost a fraction...
 

DLTARNU

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The first thing I need to do is find a good exhaust system for it.

My last two Vipers had Borla exhausts when I got them. I don't think I'll be happy with the stock exhaust.


If you're going to do exhaust, do headers. Belanger headers, hi-flow cats, cat back. Good for 50+ HP, runs MUCH cooler, sounds LOADS better. Do it once; do it right. :2tu:
 

sbarbier

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I recently purchased a 2000 RT/10 and everything said about the brakes is true. Mine is stock (as of last week) and I just took it to Deals Gap (Tail of the Dragon) over the weekend and the brakes were the biggest concern on tight corners. I found that I could not drive the car to it's full potential with the stock brakes. Almost lost it on one corner because of them which immediately told me I need to upgrade the brakes.

I had a blowout on the way home from picking up the car when I purchased it. The tires looked good visually but were apparently dry rotted. I replaced all 4 and I'm glad I did. If the tires are 9 years old I would get new ones regardless of how many miles.
 

luc

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I just took it to Deals Gap (Tail of the Dragon) over the weekend and the brakes were the biggest concern on tight corners. I found that I could not drive the car to it's full potential with the stock brakes.

better brakes or not you're dreaming if you think that you can drive a Viper to it's full potential on public roads.
Most drivers can't even do it on a road course.
It's true that the main problem with the brakes is the front right (passenger side) wheel locking up under hard braking which obviously is related to a weight balance issue.
I believe that a lot of Gen 2 ( mine included) seat lower on the rear driver side and contribute to this problem. At least on mine once I corrected this issue the front right do nor lock up so easily.
Luc 00GTS
 

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