Drilling into the backwall of the trunk. Good idea?

[V10SpeedLuvr]

My LH amp has a bad habit of sliding out of the bracket that holds it. The bracket is mounted to the back of the trunk wall. I want to drill 1 small hole in the top and bottom of the bracket and insert a screw to hold the amp in place. Is there anything (electrical wires, etc) behind the trunk wall that would possibly be in the line of fire of a drill bit or screw?

Also, are the plastic clips that hold the wiring harness to the roof of the trunk sold separately either at Dodge or anywhere else? A couple of mine have broken and that ugly harness hangs down a little bit now.

TIA!

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

The additional two screws will add unnecessary weight. Better to remove the amp completely and save even more weight.

 

[1TONY1]

The fuel tank is up in the area. I would make sure that it was either not where I was going to drill or there was enough gap to barely drill thru AND room for the screw.

If the bracket "holds" the amp and it's just sliding out, how about some double sided tape or where the bracket and amp meet run a bead of black silicone. Silicone is used on airplanes a lot to hold wires still so they won't chafe etc.

p.s. Remember, a short screw is as good as a long screw if the appropriate result is reached

 

[cyaford]

You trying to be sneaky Chad? I don't think you need to drill for the nitrous lines.

 

[-FROG-]

Just try and relocate the amplifier to the side of the trunk. Gas tank is usually in the way in the trunk wall.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

If the bracket is mounted firmly enough and it is just a matter of the amp sliding, then bend the bracket enough so it is not perfectly straight. (Kind of Tony's idea.) The amp will then have a lot of friction (when it is slid into place and straightens the bracket again) and will stay in place. No weight penalty, no sharp objects, no smelly adhesive, amp comes out when needed, looks are same as now. Presto fix-o.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

p.s. Remember, a short screw is as good as a long screw if the appropriate result is reached

Actually if the length of the screw is adequate the girth of the screw will determine if the results are satisfactory.

 

[GTSnake]

Actually if the length of the screw is adequate the girth of the screw will determine if the results are satisfactory.

Actually it's the amount of time the screw is that determines if it's satisfactory......

Wait, are we talking about the same thing here

 

[jdeft1]

Existing bracket and double sided tape behind the amp to help hold it!! No more holes in the viper!

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

The fuel tank is up in the area. I would make sure that it was either not where I was going to drill or there was enough gap to barely drill thru AND room for the screw.

If the bracket "holds" the amp and it's just sliding out, how about some double sided tape or where the bracket and amp meet run a bead of black silicone. Silicone is used on airplanes a lot to hold wires still so they won't chafe etc.

p.s. Remember, a short screw is as good as a long screw if the appropriate result is reached

Ahhh yes, drilling into the gas tank would be a booger, wouldn't it? What normally knocks it loose is taking that God forsaken softtop in and out of the trunk. The silicone idea sounds good, but if I knock the amp with the top, I'm not sure the silicone would hold up. The length of the amp and brackets are exactly the same or I'd try to bend the corner on the brackets and "lock" the amp in place.

You trying to be sneaky Chad? I don't think you need to drill for the nitrous lines.

I'm actually drilling a couple more airholes for the ******* girls I keep back there. The amp story is all a coverup

If the bracket is mounted firmly enough and it is just a matter of the amp sliding, then bend the bracket enough so it is not perfectly straight. (Kind of Tony's idea.) The amp will then have a lot of friction (when it is slid into place and straightens the bracket again) and will stay in place. No weight penalty, no sharp objects, no smelly adhesive, amp comes out when needed, looks are same as now. Presto fix-o.

I tried bending the brackets but they are pretty strong and I didn't want to put that much pressure on them for fear of popping them off the trunkwall. They are mounted by 2 small screws which come from inside the body of the car (near where the gas tank is) out towards the trunk.

Actually it's the amount of time the screw is that determines if it's satisfactory......

Wait, are we talking about the same thing here

I think I'll give Tator a call tomorrow and see if he knows for sure if the gas tank or anything else would be in the way. We shouldn't leave him out of the fun of getting in a few cheap jokes

Existing bracket and double sided tape behind the amp to help hold it!! No more holes in the viper!

The problem with that is, the amp is a tight fit when it slides into the bracket. If I added 2 sided tape to the back of the amp, I don't think I could get it to slide into the brackets. More holes in the Viper means less weight and would negate the added weight of the screws like Chuck was concerned about

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

If you have the amps on each side (as I did in my '94) when one failed, I bought a single amp replacement (removed the bad amp on left and the good amp on right) and put it on the right (perceived better traction, since the left side has the battery.) That all worked out well, but the big surprise was how well the golf clubs fit by having more room, even though only on one side. Maybe that's your best bet; single amp and more ... uh ... legroom for the jump seat passengers.

But I think the forward trankspace wall outboard of the frame rails is outside the span of the gas tank anyway.

 

[eucharistos]

are we still talking about chad's amp

 

[Fast Viper Dan]

Actually if the length of the screw is adequate the girth of the screw will determine if the results are satisfactory.

9 out of 10 tuners say, size maters!

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

If I may interrupt this comedy club tryout, I spoke to Chuck Tator this morning. Chuck said the rear trunk wall was about .25" thick and the gas tank was about 1" behind the wall. He suggested putting some tape .25" down on the drillbit to be sure I didn't drill too deep and give myself a fuel leak/fire I did just as Chuck suggested and just for added safety, I used very short, dullended screws to secure the amp.

Thanks for the help everyone!!

are we still talking about chad's amp

Not anymore. Back to auditions for the soon to be opened VCA comedy club

 

[1TONY1]

You could drill deep, use a long screw to also seal the new hole in the fuel tank

Now.....she said.... "Who are you going to please with that little thing ? ME, B!%*&H