Drivers door wiring problem and fix.

[DanB]

Having owned my ACR since 2011 I've noticed the odd flaky problem with the door. Sometimes it won't open or unlock. Sometimes it would open on it's own. Once it did it on a turn and the door swung open.

While it was parked for the ROE supercharger install I thought I would tackle the wiring. At first I thought I would just repair the wiring.

The cost of the new harness isn't cheap but after looking at the horror of what someone else had attempted I decided to go new.

The boot was cut from end to end. It had paint over-spray from a previous repair. The wires were just a mess. A new harness was ordered.

It wasn't cheap. Over $700 Canadian was the retail price. My cost was $475 with tax. Steep but worth the piece of mind was I complete it.

I didn't have time to install it as of yet as a battery install and a new fuel filter were the festivities of the evening.

Pics for your viewing pleasure.

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[Bonkers]

Oh Dan... you should have done a search on this. The door
harness is a well documented and known problem. I fixed
mine for less than $5 and three hours of soldering. Hope the
re-install goes well for you though - just be ready for those
cheap wires to break again in a few years...

 

[DanB]

I did search on this.

Look at the pictures of what I was working with. Frankensteined wiring with more wires breaking when I removed the boot. Boot was cut right down the middle and covered in over-spray.

I don't mind investing in having a new boot and new wiring. After the door flung open I will sleep well knowing it's done with a new harness.

Keeping the old harness will allow me to repair that one and have a spare if I need one down the road. I can reuse the new uncut boot that I came with the new one. Nothing like opening your door and seeing someone else's hack wiring. Changing that boot alone is worth the price not to see it.

It wasn't and easy decision but one I am happy with.

And with $5 of supplies and 3 hours of my labour amounts to about the same anyway!

 

[ViperJeff]

Man oh man, solder and heat shrink is so much better than those damn things

Glad you got it taken care of

 

[Camfab]

The real question is................. Did Dodge upgrade that wiring harness or are they still using inferior quality wires. The harness going through the door jamb is so tight and stretched hard at opening. When you close the door the harness gets kinked radically. The best way to solve the issue would be a new harness with high flex, high count standed wire with a silicone jacket. The five dollar fix everyone does only makes the problem worse as it creates a tighter fit and even less flexibility......

 

[DanB]

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[ViperJohn]

The real question is................. Did Dodge upgrade that wiring harness or are they still using inferior quality wires. The harness going through the door jamb is so tight and stretched hard at opening. When you close the door the harness gets kinked radically. The best way to solve the issue would be a new harness with high flex, high count standed wire with a silicone jacket. The five dollar fix everyone does only makes the problem worse as it creates a tighter fit and even less flexibility......

I am glad you posted this. I haven't had this issue on my car yet, but when I do, I would likely splice in a new section of wire to avoid the pulling and avoid making the flexible elbow more congested with couplers.

 

[DanB]

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Started the job yesterday and finished it up tonight.

Took about 2 hours with taking the panel off, replacing the wiring, cleaning up underneath the door panel, and reinstalling everything.

Tools used are in the picture. Screwdriver, assorted trim tools, YMMV on what to use but I found the longer tool handy.

Started removing the clip under the dash. Be flexible. If you are 300lbs may I suggest getting a helper. Being a contortionist helps as well. Remove the harness by prying it out. It's held on by the christmas tree barbed plastic fasteners. Once removed it's a alot easier.
That way it gives you access to undo the red tab and unclip the harness. You can then feed it up out of the dash.

Undo the philips screws hold the door panel on. Carefully finesse the panel off the door. Once removed make a mental note or take pics for your reference for general wire placement after you remove it.
It is self explanatory. All plugs do follow certain plugs and distances to clip them in after. You just want to make sure you don't mistakenly put wiring in the window path.

Mirror was easier to remove for access to clip. It feels like you could undo it from inside. Don't. Just take 30 seconds and a 10mm ratchet with extension and remove the mirror.

Once wiring is removed feed new wiring into door all the way first. Roughly place the wiring where it should go. Feed dash end into dash and make sure boot is seated in the correct position.

From there just start plugging in the wiring and attaching it where you removed it.

Test window for movement and wire clearance. If ok and everything works start to reinstall panel.

I used new sealer/dum dum on the water barrier. It's a Nissan part number on the box. If you can't find dum dum/butyl anywhere just call up Nissan. Can't remember how much it was but I had it lying around from some previous installation.

Also in the picture is some 3M double sided tape. The thin clear kind. I used some on the top edge where the water barrier folds over the top. My original tape was dried and crusty. Put some new stuff on and was good to go.

Put the panel on and attached all the screws. Done and the new boot looks great compared to the old one.

 

[ViperJeff]

Good job and nice write up

 

[DaJerseyViper]

Actually the original repair was not that horrible. Solder and heat shrink is accepted method of repair. Granted it looked like crap...But nothing wrong with fixing like that.

 

[ViperJeff]

It's also worth time to add Teflon tape to those high abrasion areas