omegac1
Viper Owner
Has anyone put the radiator fan from a 1999 to 03 on their Gen 1? Is it a real improvement in cooling or not much of a difference worth the $?
Fan upgrade
- Thread starter omegac1
- Start date
steve911
Enthusiast
All '03's and up use a hydraulic powered fan, something I would think would be very hard to do going backwards in years. I thought the Gen 2 fans mounted different than the Gen 1's.
omegac1
Viper Owner
This is the mod I am talking about.
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/615037-The-Most-Efficient-Way-to-Cool-a-Gen.-I?highlight=fan+upgrade
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/615037-The-Most-Efficient-Way-to-Cool-a-Gen.-I?highlight=fan+upgrade
omegac1
Viper Owner
Suppose I install a 170 thermostat. How does one change the temp that the electric fan comes on a 1995? Newer cars are controlled by ECU programming.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
A lower temp thermostat will not keep the temperture any lower, it merely opens the flow the radiator sooner. If the radiator and fan cannot keep the temperature at the thermostat opening temperature now, it won't with a 170, either.
The lower thermostat might have helped carbureted engines when the big ol' 4-barrel was sitting on an intake manifold that also carried coolant from one bank to the other. There was a need to vaporize the fuel for driveability. With port fuel injection, each cylinder gets the right amount of fuel and there is no coolant passage in the manifold anymore. A lower thermostat opening will keep the block cooler, keep the oil cooler, allow fuel to condense on the cylinder walls, allow fuel build up in the oil, allow water to not boil off... nothing good. You are better off with a normal coolant temperature and looking for ways to cool the intake air.
The other Gen 1 trick is a "Roe duct" in the chin. By creating an opening under the fascia (take a look at Dodge Intrepids) it allows air that would build up pressure under the nose (and maybe cause lift at high speed) to flow through the radiator instead. With a homemade version of this duct and the Gen 2 fan in my '94 I have never had temp issues since.
The lower thermostat might have helped carbureted engines when the big ol' 4-barrel was sitting on an intake manifold that also carried coolant from one bank to the other. There was a need to vaporize the fuel for driveability. With port fuel injection, each cylinder gets the right amount of fuel and there is no coolant passage in the manifold anymore. A lower thermostat opening will keep the block cooler, keep the oil cooler, allow fuel to condense on the cylinder walls, allow fuel build up in the oil, allow water to not boil off... nothing good. You are better off with a normal coolant temperature and looking for ways to cool the intake air.
The other Gen 1 trick is a "Roe duct" in the chin. By creating an opening under the fascia (take a look at Dodge Intrepids) it allows air that would build up pressure under the nose (and maybe cause lift at high speed) to flow through the radiator instead. With a homemade version of this duct and the Gen 2 fan in my '94 I have never had temp issues since.
omegac1
Viper Owner
Interesting...so why do most power kits also include a lower temp stat if its a bad thing?
TexasPettey
Enthusiast
I believe that the Gen2 fan does do a better job of pulling air across the radiator at stop & low speeds. As Tom said, the duct underneath is a great way to get rid of a lot of heat when moving. Look at where you are having the cooling problems for a hint on where to invest. If you are having trouble at stop with no A/C on, you may need the center fan and a bit of radiator clean out.
hemihead
Viper Owner
I'm no expert here but I have been told in the past, while fighting high temp issues on a 440 4 barrel that a higher temp T-stat can infact cool an engine because the coolent will stay in the radiator slightly longer and get slightly cooler.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
The coller T-stat will help keep the car running cooler while driving. Mine will typically stay at the 180 degree range on road trips. But when sitting in traffic or pushing it ******* a race course, the temp will rise to about 200.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Because in some cases, having the ECU "think" it is still cold will set the injector pulse width to run a little rich, and maybe that helps.
It may be a very short-term help with power adder kits if the (stock?) cooling system is marginal because it will take longer to get "hot." But it won't prevent the long-term "hot" condition.
Regarding the above comment, most applications of power in a street car are really short term events.
Because in many cases, the benefits with a carbureted engine is still a recent memory?
jdeft1
Enthusiast
OP, you might consider wiring the "mystery" switch to the fan relay for a bit a manual control. While the car should stay below 225 with the fan on, you may buy some time if it still climbs into the red by turning on the fan when she gets up to operating temp.... I also installed an upgraded fan, 180 t-stat and a Al radiator in my '94 and rarely see the temp read over 200. Also, Tom made a really good comment in the thread link you posted. Swap the Radiator cap too.
