As far as air filter, I used the S&Bs and smooth tubes. No problems for the filters going in, put the tubes on the air box end first while it's out, then put the whole assembly in and wedge the tubes over the TB's. If you have some, use some tire-dressing on the inside lip of the tubes, makes them slide on so much easier.
I used a mobile 1 filter, and 10-30 weight oil (mobil 1). It used ~9.5q with filter. No problems with the fillup, the filter is a pain to get back in the area (best way past the lower arm!?). Cost like 25$ in oil, 10$ filter and 10$ labor.
ECU relearn... the computer "learns" how to mix the A/F and what not. When I was having problem with the spark, I disconnected the ECU to reset it's "memory" and let it re-learn the fuel cuves with my more agressive style
There is a small cover on the drivers side, with a bolt and a bunch of wires, Remove the bolt and wires, which basicly disconnects the batt to the ecu instead of having to remove the rear tires (PITA!). Leave it off for ~a minute, then reconnect. I did several short trips, around 10 minutes each to let it "relearn" the curves. It runs MUCH better.. it may be plecebo, but it sure feels better.
Seafoam is fluid that is used to clean marine engines. It's an old trick that us GN guys used, and it works WONDERS
Each of the big 3 have their own versions.. but seafoam works the best.
You disconnect a vac hose, and start the motor. It will want to run rough, just keep it going. Stick the vac hose into the bottle of seafoam, just a little so it starts sucking it up. The motor will want to die some, have your partner keep it going w/ the throttle (since you can't grab both blades at once, you need help). When you get to maybe half a bottle, stick the tube all the way down in the bottle and let it kill the motor. Let it sit for maybe 10 minutes. Crank it up, watch all the pretty white smoke BILLOW out (if you didn't know, ya got to be outside!). This is all that nasty built up carbon going bye-bye. Repeat, as it seemed to take 2 bottles to get her running top notch.
With the air tubes off of the TB's, use a can of deep creep (Napa has it) and sprey it in the inlets while varrying the air flow. MAKE SURE YOU HOLD ONTO THE LITTLE RED SPREY TIP!!! It can come off.. and get sucked up in there! Just keep your fingers on it to keep it on tight. This stuff eats the oil that the PVC valve throws into the intake. It also helps break up the carbon deposits.
Pour 1/2 bottle of deep creap into the valve cover. do this BEFORE YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL! Run the motor for a little while, then drain the oil and do the change. Kinda like running ATF in the oil, it contains deturgents that do the scrubbing bubbles routine.
Use a mix of Redline ML-90 and Trans fluids for the trans, and redline gear oil for the rear (I've yet to do this, next week).
For the brakes, it should be pretty strait forward. I haven't done them yet, but I do have a vac pump (20$ at autozone). If you got cash to burn, the one-man-bleeder systems ROCK, but are pricey.
If you haven't flushed your coolant, do so. When you are done, make sure you put a bottle of water wetter in there (cheap insurance).
Plug wires, I used the MP 8.5's too. I found it easist to remove the cowl AND the side coolant tubes (you are changing it anyway hehe). There are 2 bolts on each side, with the passenger side having the oil dip stick attached. While these are off, repaint the nasty scraped black paint (ewww..) with nice new high-gloss black (or blue, or red, what ever) and replace those STUPID pressure-clip things with stainless band clamps (the only way to fly). I'll send you the scan of the plug order on the coils.
Use Champion RC12LYC plugs gaped @ .035.
While the hoses are off, replace them if they look worn on the INSIDE, and scrape off any outside corrosion on the water pump.
Whew... that was a long post!!
Mail me if you need any further help man. I got pics of everything I did, so i'll be writing up a story for the illustrated upgrade section.
James
