Floor Jack

ViperBite

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Did a quick search and could not find answer. Just got a new low profile floor jack. When looking under the car to find the spot to jack it up I could only see the factory jack point. When using this I may or may not hit the sill, is damn close. Also don't really like using this since the bent rod will sit on the rubber pad of the jack. Don't know about the stability of this.

It was not obvious if there is another location. The under car trays do a good job of hiding everything. Did not look up front yet. Where do you normally use as a jacking point for your floor jack, front and rear?
 

Paul Hawker

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Interesting feature. If you Jack a GTS up by it's front jacking point, you can easily raise up both tires. After the front tire comes up off the ground, just keep jacking, and the rear will come up. Really handy at the track.
 
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Hmm, in the back I actually come in from the back of the car and use the frame rail. In front....well....my low profile jack won't get in there without fist bumping into the side sill. Must get a different jack. :)
 

NOTV8

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I do what Paul said. I used a small floor jack and when there is enough clearance I used the bigger jack and place it in line with the frame then put my jack stand. Don't forget to put an old carpet or cardboard on top of the jack to protect the coating. Hope this help.
 

LETHAL GTS

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One of these:
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http://www.harborfreight.com/
Jack the car up at the front corner of the side sill like Paul had mentioned, don't stop till both front and back wheels are off the ground.
My car is lowered almost an 1 1/2 and this jack works fine. It even has a rubber insert so that your paint doesn't get damaged on the frame.
 

obaa996

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You may find that the jack frame will contact the sidesill before the jack pad reaches the wire loop on the frame; mine did. I used a hockey puck to bring the pad up to the right height
 

DynoDaddy

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FYI, the harbor freight, and 149$ Jegs jacks are POS. I have gone through 3 of them in the last 2 years. Pumps pukes all of its fluid out, various peices break, etc. Not worth the trouble. If you buy cheap you will buy twice. (or more)
 

Bad_Byte

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FYI, the harbor freight, and 149$ Jegs jacks are POS. I have gone through 3 of them in the last 2 years. Pumps pukes all of its fluid out, various peices break, etc. Not worth the trouble. If you buy cheap you will buy twice. (or more)

Ditto
 
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ViperBite

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Well I bought the HF POS. I also paid $1.00 to get a one year no questions replacement warranty. So, if it breaks, go get a new one.

Anyway, I will try the front jack point to raise the whole side. When you mention hockey puck, you literally mean a hockey puck. I have a couple. Are they strong enough to not break due to the concentrated load from the bent rod used as the jack point? Although I have a rubber pad on the jack, the disk that holds the rubber pad will contact the sill.

Just tried it, works like a champ. Love them hockey pucks.
 

ruckdr

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Save yourself all the grief of will the jack fit or not, and drive up onto a couple of 2 x 8, or 2 x 10, and then jack the car; very simple.
Later,
 

kARLUG

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I made a couple of front ramps out of 4x6 pieces of lumber.
Cut ends at about a 30 degree angle. Drive up on the ramps with front wheels and then jack the car up. Allows plenty of clearance under side sills so you don't bend them. Very cheap and it works.
 
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ViperBite

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The problem was not the jack frame itself hitting the sills, it was the disk that holds the rubber pad has ridges that hit the sill. The hockey puck solved that problem.

I did however make ramps so that I can get the car on and off the driveway. The only car I own that can clear the driveway curbing without extreme care is my SUV. Viper does not have a chance.
 

Gerald Levin

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Not sure if this is off topic or not, but I have a pair of those plastic (polyethylene?) car ramps that you frequently see at all the auto parts places. Raises the car 12-16" (I'm guessing). Anyone ever use this on their viper or is the car too low? Or do you use a 2x8 or 2x10 before the ramp? Thanks.
 

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