Front suspension

[steel snake]

I just worked both front wheel wells one at a time using a conventional Viper tire jack. After it was all done the front was a few inches higher than normal as usual. I expected the facia/front to set back to what I considered it's normal height, but it's still sitting hi. Will it take a hard braking to bring it down? Your thots? Thx, SS

 

[Robert Kennedy]

Took the rear of my car a few days and a few rides to settle after installing the lowering caps in rear springs... 99 RT/10

 

[steel snake]

Thx Robert, I wonder if that indicates the torsion bar bushings and suspension bushings need some silicon spray, or is that a "jeez don't do that" moment"?

 

[MoparMap]

Have you driven it since messing with it? If you just jack it up and let it back down you'll have to roll the car at minimum to let the suspension settle due to the scrub radius of the tire. If you picture how a tire swings through camber change when it moves up and down you can kind of understand what's going on.

 

[steel snake]

Yeh, I took it out for a ride and expected things to settle down, but the car was still high. I'll just be patient. Thx, Guys

 

[Chris Charleston]

All bushed components need to be tightened to torque at "ride height". If not you will have "load" in the bushings.

 

[InTheZoneAC]

I just worked both front wheel wells one at a time using a conventional Viper tire jack. After it was all done the front was a few inches higher than normal as usual. I expected the facia/front to set back to what I considered it's normal height, but it's still sitting hi. Will it take a hard braking to bring it down? Your thots? Thx, SS

if the car is resting on uneven ground you'll get one corner that's lower than the other, or higher than the other. And, as already stated, anytime the car is lifted a simple roll or pull out the driveway and back should correct it. Nothing to worry about unless you physically altered the toe or camber settings or have completely shot bushings or tie rods/ball joints.

You can easily test for play in wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods by jacking a corner up and wiggle the wheel while holding it at "9 and 3" and at "12 and 6". Completely destroyed bushings should allow you to wiggle some part of a control arm, those should be feel stiff.

 

[steel snake]

I don't have access to a lift. I jacked her up just to take wheels off and clean gunk off the backsides. I also took a look at everything suspension-wise. I've always had a problem with wheel hop until a mile or two have been driven then it goes away. The original Michs did it and the Goodrich tires I put on to replace the Michs. Goodrich was cool enuf to replace the first set, but 2nd set does it too. So I'd think it's something with the right suspension, but I just live with it. The car has 9500 on it, 5k when I bot it. 2002 RT10.