Fuel Pump Module $625.00!!!

[troyrt10]

I have a 1993 RT/10. I am replacing the fuel pump module because I am tired of my car not starting up right away. I already bought the assembly and will get it today by 12:00. My question is, why do you have to cut through the trunk to replace it. Why can't you just drop the tank? PLEASE anyone who has any expereince with this procedure please give input. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks

 

[GA.VIPER]

Troy, you have a PM coming to you.


Good luck!!!

 

[troyrt10]

Thanks for the PM. My Mechanic might call and get some info from you. Thank you so much for you help!!!

 

[GA.VIPER]

Any time!!!

Good Luck!!!

 

[troyrt10]

Check pm GA.VIPER

 

[Vic]

Someone send that module to China for copying! They can make it for $45 with slave labor!

 

[troyrt10]

I know!!! This whole ordeal has been crazy! I tried to go a cheaper route but it ended up blowing up in my face. By the time this whole thing is done, I will have spent $2000! The $625.00 doesn't look so bad anymore!
Lesson learned: sometimes there are no short cuts!
I just keep thinking...$2000...Roller rockers...fly wheel...maybe NO2...etc

 

[viperrt96]

You might want to check this out first.

Gen 1 Fuel pump fix

I would have tried it but mine went out before I knew about this fix.
My 96 was doing the same thing. It would run the correct amount of fuel pressure but would be hard to start. Thats because of a check ball in the regulator becomes lodged with debri or ? and it can't hold fuel pressure while it sits(non-running)

Too bad Vipers have less than a desirable design from the beginning. Vipers have only one fuel line running to the motor and it's regulated back at the tank. So forget about regulating your own fuel pressure (Finer tuning for performance) I think Chrysler did it for emmisions. While most fuel systems have a return line and are regulated near the fuel rail they also bring warm fuel back to the tank. That increase vapor,emissions and blah, blah , blah

If you've ever noticed on most tuner cars they use different injectors (of course) and use the return type method so they can better control the fuel supply.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Troy is being nice to me; the check valve design needs a pressure relief on the engine side after a hot shut down and his car was one of those that didn't like it. Other cars were fine, but I don't want it to cause problems of any kind. I'm working on how to add the relief feature so the valve works all the time in all cars. I feel bad that it won't be in time to save him the fuel module job; it's exactly why I've tried to come with it.

 

[prodiver]

I just finished replacing the fuel gauge sending unit in my 95. It is attached to the fuel pump. Removing the fuel tank and pump is not that difficult if you have a service manual. You don't have to cut anything. You do have to remove the pop rivets from the fuel tank closeout panel and the right side inner fenderwell to remove the tank. Not a difficult job but somewhat time consuming the first time. Whole job took about 3 hours but could do it much faster now that I have done it once.

 

[troyrt10]

Thanks for all your input!

 

[troyrt10]

Just got my Viper back! Starts right up EVERYtime. I went ahead and also had my fuel hoses replaced with braded metal ones, looks great. If anyone is in the San Antonio area, Gonzaba Autoplex did a fantastic job on the hoses and replacing the Fuel Pump Module. So far they have done all my maintance and I will continue to take my car there. Also, thanks for all the input you guys gave me on this thread and through my pm. And a big thanks to Chuck Tator, my mechanic called him and Chuck gave him some insight on how to best reach the fuel tank. Again thank you.