I am thinking about building a 3 door garage, 40' X 32' X 12' with 10' doors, a people door and a couple of windows. I am looking at 4" thick floors except where my lift will be, it will be 6" thick. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I am currently getting quotes for the project and could change plans now better than later.
Garage
- Thread starter Mopar488
- Start date
gtssnake
Viper Owner
if you live in a cold climate I would surely do radiant heat in the floor.
2snakes4us
Enthusiast
My garage is 34 deep 36 wide 12 high ceilings and 8.0 garage door
1 single,1 double and my Revolution xlt lift should be here in a week or so. I will have to add some door panels on the single door(where the lift is going) so i can lift to full potential. i have a 4x4 ram with a rack and i still clear the 8.0 door. 10 door might be a over kill. cost and looks to consider too.
i think you will be very happy with the size your considering. you might go ahead and make the depth 36. I would if i was building from scratch, for walking room between end to end (6 car)vehicle parking. with lift....7 car.
1 single,1 double and my Revolution xlt lift should be here in a week or so. I will have to add some door panels on the single door(where the lift is going) so i can lift to full potential. i have a 4x4 ram with a rack and i still clear the 8.0 door. 10 door might be a over kill. cost and looks to consider too.
i think you will be very happy with the size your considering. you might go ahead and make the depth 36. I would if i was building from scratch, for walking room between end to end (6 car)vehicle parking. with lift....7 car.
My garage is 34 deep 36 wide 12 high ceilings and 8.0 garage door
1 single,1 double and my Revolution xlt lift should be here in a week or so. I will have to add some door panels on the single door(where the lift is going) so i can lift to full potential. i have a 4x4 ram with a rack and i still clear the 8.0 door. 10 door might be a over kill. cost and looks to consider too.
i think you will be very happy with the size your considering. you might go ahead and make the depth 36. I would if i was building from scratch, for walking room between end to end (6 car)vehicle parking. with lift....7 car.
Thanks for the info. I have been quoted (3) 10' doors, (3) windows, (1) people door, 4" concrete, except for 6" in lift bay, vinyl siding, 35 year architectural shingles and post construction for $30K. This same guy built a barn for me about 6 years ago and he does great work. Does the price seem fair?
SylvanSRT
Enthusiast
make sure and do a vapor barrier under cement floor, i would use an 100% 2-part epoxy floor coating. also do a floor drain. also i am not a fan of multiple doors i would do one larger door instead of dividing up the wall into three openings
I've had my Revolution/Rotary 4 Post Lift for 4 years now and I love it!My garage is 34 deep 36 wide 12 high ceilings and 8.0 garage door
1 single,1 double and my Revolution xlt lift should be here in a week or so. I will have to add some door panels on the single door(where the lift is going) so i can lift to full potential. i have a 4x4 ram with a rack and i still clear the 8.0 door. 10 door might be a over kill. cost and looks to consider too.
i think you will be very happy with the size your considering. you might go ahead and make the depth 36. I would if i was building from scratch, for walking room between end to end (6 car)vehicle parking. with lift....7 car.
snakebitdave
Enthusiast
Mine is 30 deep by 44 wide with bump outs at each end; one for a desk the other for a compressor and storage shelving. The ceiling height at each end is 9 ft while the center bay has scissors trusses where I have my Revolution lift. I have three overhead doors spaced 4 ft apart that are 9 ft wide x 7'-6" high. There are service doors at each end. Five cars are on the floor and one on the lift. The floor is 4" thick except 6" under the lift.
My regret is that I couldn't use the scissors trusses for all three bays but with the style of the house I had no choice. I would highly recommend the three doors vs. one single wide. This saves me a lot of time if I want to get one of the cars out that isn't parked directly in front of a door. I would also recommend as much insulation as you can get. I have A/C but, if kept closed, the garage stays 70-72 degrees in the summer without the unit on. When I built the garage I had no intention of having six cars in it but once you're snake bitten you can't have too much space!!
My regret is that I couldn't use the scissors trusses for all three bays but with the style of the house I had no choice. I would highly recommend the three doors vs. one single wide. This saves me a lot of time if I want to get one of the cars out that isn't parked directly in front of a door. I would also recommend as much insulation as you can get. I have A/C but, if kept closed, the garage stays 70-72 degrees in the summer without the unit on. When I built the garage I had no intention of having six cars in it but once you're snake bitten you can't have too much space!!
Fast Viper Dan
Enthusiast
I would have one 14' roll up for a Motor Home. Also would have a clean out added for RV dump.
Dan
Dan
AFL in NJ
Enthusiast
You may want to consider using a 12" diameter by 36" depth onto a sqare concrete footing (using a sonotube concrete form or equivilent) at the exact locations of your lift footings rather than 6" floor in the area where your hoist will be. Since you already know the exact locations for those footings, you wouldn't have to pour 6" floors and those concrete formed columns will bear the point load of your hoist better. (I know the Viper is only +/- 3300 pounds, but just in case you put something bigger on the hoist even once....everybody hates cracked concrete floors in a garage, especially if you've already applied an epoxy coating to the floor)
Regards,
Aaron
Regards,
Aaron
V
Venomiss
Guest
Hook up for a full oversized sink and electric for refrigerator perhaps?
