SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
Anybody have a set of these??
Gen.1 paper head gaskets???
- Thread starter SNKEBIT
- Start date
ruckdr
Enthusiast
Hmm... I saw a set on Ebay not too long ago- but WHY do you want these, other than for a "future unattainable parts pile" ?
OP
OP
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
LOL
Let's just say that some people are not willing to fork out 700+ for gaskets.Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
I am sure to be in the minority, but if used with a good, modern long-life antifreeze, I believe they would last fine. After ~90K miles, only the exposed or dead-ended flow portions of the gasket showed distress.
I guess we are all done with the cylinder bore shifting story then?
I guess we are all done with the cylinder bore shifting story then?
R
RTED
Guest
SNKEBIT.....YOU
R
RTED
Guest
SNKEBIT....check your messages.
OP
OP
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
OP
OP
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
I am sure to be in the minority, but if used with a good, modern long-life antifreeze, I believe they would last fine. After ~90K miles, only the exposed or dead-ended flow portions of the gasket showed distress.
I guess we are all done with the cylinder bore shifting story then?
Never figured out how the cylinder bore could come out with the head in the way...
I would figure that the paper ones would last another 15+ yrs.
Maybe by then, somebody like cometic would actually have some on the market that don't cost more than the hood.
LOL
That may be, but are you willing to fork out the cash in the future for decking the heads and block to repair the corrosion? The primary problem I have seen with the old gaskets is that while they are permeating coolant, they corrode the surface of the heads and deck too. As you can imagine, sooner or later the whole engine will have to be pulled to repair this.
I have a Gen-1 in here now- at 60K miles, the heads did indeed need to be resurfaced from corrosion. This engine escaped by the skin of its teeth from needing the deck surfaced.
PS- being a wet-sleeve block, the bores shifting is a very real possibility if the gasket corrodes. The gasket if technically what is holding the bore in place by squeezing it between the head surface and block boss. If you decrease the gasket thickness at the top of the bore while the main portions remain constant, the bore comes loose and can move around, leaking coolant into the crank case or combustion gases into the coolant.
viperrt96
Enthusiast
I am sure to be in the minority, but if used with a good, modern long-life antifreeze, I believe they would last fine. After ~90K miles, only the exposed or dead-ended flow portions of the gasket showed distress.
I guess we are all done with the cylinder bore shifting story then?
I guess I'm a minority too. My car makes over 700hp (on spray) and runs in the 10's. My car has 42k miles with no problems. I also have seen at least 5 gen1's in my area and all are on the original gaskets.
Is MLS better ?
yes!
Necessary ?
No!
These are still available through the early piston ring package replacement service package from 1993. I do not advise using them as noted in the other posts. In the day, we used them with the Mopar head gasket sealer which reduced corrosion. With yearly coolant system service and a corrosion additive life of the gasket was extended. The new MLS gasket is prefered, heads should be surfaced for a MLS gasket. If head bolts have been reused once before or if they show any signs of corrosion, they should be replaced. The torque to yield proceedure was modified by many builders and a 30-60-90-110 torque process was used. If your engine has more than 30k miles a valve job with new seals should be done.
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Exactly why better coolant technology would avoid this issue. I may be wrong, but my guess is all Gen 1s came with old technology green coolant. After 90K miles my heads and block were untouched and went together as-is. Modern coolants are now even fill-for-life.
0209 CLK
Enthusiast
So what would be one of the better coolants to run beside the green stuff?
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Any long life coolant is a huge technology step better; I have compared a few in protecting magnesium, a very difficult metal to keep from corroding, and Peak Global Lifetime is currently the best.
Whoooooaaaaaa,Tom.....are you telling us that you have given up on the "GM stuff" in your Viper and are now using the Peak yourself???
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
See, I like to think of it as the "Texaco" stuff, but GM gave it a bad name. If I had to replace some now, yes. But I have several years to go.
There was an ATV recall due to a magnesium clutch cover that included a coolant passage - the thumb size hole, only 0.75" deep, connected the coolant to the rest of the block. Within less than a season the OEM coolant allowed the passage to plug completely and the engine overheated. The recall replaced the mag part with an aluminum version. We tested several brands and types of antifreeze and some long-life coolants do OK, but the Peak did the best. On all other metals (aluminum, steel, brass, solder) there was no difference, so all things equal, I would recommend the Peak product.
Once again it's the additives. Peak doesn't "make" the additives, they blend them into the glycol, bottle it, and market it with Danica. Somewhere there is a very smart additive company.
There was an ATV recall due to a magnesium clutch cover that included a coolant passage - the thumb size hole, only 0.75" deep, connected the coolant to the rest of the block. Within less than a season the OEM coolant allowed the passage to plug completely and the engine overheated. The recall replaced the mag part with an aluminum version. We tested several brands and types of antifreeze and some long-life coolants do OK, but the Peak did the best. On all other metals (aluminum, steel, brass, solder) there was no difference, so all things equal, I would recommend the Peak product.
Once again it's the additives. Peak doesn't "make" the additives, they blend them into the glycol, bottle it, and market it with Danica. Somewhere there is a very smart additive company.
THANKS, Tom.
