Here is the english version ( to make it easier on me, I first tried the free translation link and it was a joke, for example the caliper became a pliers and the model year a market!!!!!!!,so i just did it.)
Luc00GTS
DISCLAIMER
I'm not responsible for any procedural mistakes
Pads and rotors replacement
This how-to is specific to models years 92 to 2000
Gen2 with ABS,(01-02) front brakes are done the same way and the rear are only slightly different from the above models.
For Gen3, fronts and rear are done the same way than the 92-2000 fronts.
Tools needed:
Jack and Jack stands
14,18 and 19mm sockets
Small punch and a hammer
Torque wrench
Piston retracting tool (needles nose or retaining pliers will work or you can also use a custom made socket).
Procedure to follow:
On 92-98 models, to remove the center wheel cover, without too much damage to the wheels clear coat, a factory tool was supplied with the car (located with the owner manual).
If you don't have air tools, start by loosening up all the lugnuts (use a 19mm or 3/4 socket), just unscrew them a few turns before jacking up the car.
Put the car in gear and turn off the hand brake
Lift each wheel by using the correct factory jacking points.
Front brakes:
Front pads can be changed without removing the caliper but the rotor require caliper removal.
Remove wheel
Using a small punch, remove one of the retaining pins by pushing it, from the outside of the caliper (the pin come out on the engine side.)
You can press on the anti-rattle clip to make the pin removal easier.
Remove the anti-rattle clip and mark the side that make contact with the pads.
Push the second pin out.
Pads have a wear mark. You can even see it with the wheel on in the first picture.
You can now slide out both pads from the caliper.
Before removing the rotor, you need first to remove the brake line bracket (bolt A in the picture, with a 15mm wrench) and then unscrew both caliper mounting bolts (Bolt A ) using a 18mm wrench)
If you're going to reuse the same rotor, do a mark on both the rotor and 1 of the stud to put it back exactly in the same location on the hub.
Use zip ties or equivalent to support the caliper.
You can now remove the rotor No screw hold it, just the wheel.
Reinstallation
You must, if you're using new pads, push the pistons back in the caliper. If the pistons are not seized, you should be able to do it by hands, otherwise use a lever, making sure to protect the leverage point from scratches. Check your fluid level to make sure that it will not overflow when you push the pistons back.
First, replace the rotor (same position if you're reusing your old one) , then the caliper (torque the bolts A to 115Nm) and finally the brake line bracket ( Torque bolt B to 61Nm)
Slide both pads in the caliper.
Slide in one of the pads retaining pin, doing it from the engine side of the caliper.
Replace the anti-rattle clip, making sure to do the correct way.
Do the second pads retaining pin, pushing on the anti-rattle clip to make it easier.
Make sure that both pins are all the way in.
Put the wheel back on and progressively torque down the lugnuts to 122Nm
Once done, pump the brake pedal a few time in order for the caliper pistons to take the play out.
Rear brake:
Remove the wheel
Using a small punch, remove the pads retaining clip by pushing it from the engine side of the caliper (the pin come out on the outside)
Be careful with the small spring that is retained by the pin and pay attention to it's direction.
The outside pad come out on the hub side (the opposite of the front pads)
Slide the outside pad toward the hub center.
Slide it along the rotor, either top or bottom to remove it.
In order to remove the other, inside pad, you first must remove the rotor by pivoting it. Doesn't seems possible but that's the way to do it. In order to replace it in the same exact location, do a mark on both the rotor and 1 stud before removing it. No screw hold it, just the wheel.
You can now access and remove the inside pad,
WARNING
You don't need to remove the caliper.
If you had to do it, be very careful not to damage the hand brake cable lever.
Do not use pliers to remove the cable. Do NOT turn this lever CW.
The lever internal mechanism is quite fragile. If you break it, not only your hand brake will not work but, you will either have to buy a brand new caliper or add a second caliper for the hand brake.
If you're putting new pads, you will have to retract the piston inside the caliper.
WARNING; do not hammer the piston back. The piston being threaded, you must turn it CW in order to retract it inside the caliper.
In order to turn it, the piston has 2 small holes.
If your piston is not seized, you can use some needle nose pliers or otherwise you will have to make a custom piston retracting too by using an old 17mm socket that you will grind until you have 2, 3mm pins, spaced out 19.5mm.(on Gen2 with ABS, the distance is not the same)
On non-ABS cars, about 4 to 5 turns are needed to retract the piston and you sometimes need to push pretty hard to help it retract.
There is no piston stop so you have to eyeball it but going too far will not damage anything.
The piston must be flush with the caliper with the dust boot sticking out slightly.
To avoid any overflow, check your brake fluid level
Reinstallation:
Reverse the steps
First replace the inside pad then the rotor and finally the outside pad.
Replace the small spring,( making sure of it's direction) and use a small punch to push the pads retaining pin all the way in.
Put the wheel back on and progressively torque all the lugnuts to 122Nm
Once done, pump the brake pedal a few time for the piston to take the play out.
Some aftermarket pads (EBC) have some electrical wires, it is for a wear pads system that, since some pads are generic, the viper don't have and you can cut them
