-FROG-
Enthusiast
Some of you have been keeping up and helping me out and I greatly appreciate it. My car stopped running out of the blue back in December and I had it towed home. Thinking it was my fuel pump, I yanked out my tank, fuel pump, etc.. Then later discovered I had a "cooked" wire from a bad connector in the 50 pin bulkhead connector in passenger foot well - to under the heater blower fan in the engine compartment.
SO, I repaired the burned wire today (I didn't see anywhere where it grounded out or shorted to anything, it had a rubber boot around it so the wire was isolated safely, so I was skeptical about it being the actual problem and more of, "part of the problem").
Here is what the problem/issue is... My car will not start BECAUSE the fuel pump is not getting the voltage/signal it needs to turn on. The fuel pump does NOT prime when I turn the key and the Schroeder valve does not release any pressurized fuel, because none builds up. I have replaced the fuel pump relay in the trunk and all the relays under the heater core (fan/AC/starter, etc...) and double checked the pump itself by applying voltage from a battery charger for a split second.
The wire that was burned.... (I TRACED IT FROM END TO END). It's a grey wire, about a 12 or 14 gage wire. It begins at the Alternator with a few other wires in the same bundle. It runs from the alternator, down to the row of relays, under the heater blower fan and then into the bulkhead connector next to the relays. This is where the wire burned and from the looks of it, it burned because the connector was not allowing a good connection, to the constant arching/sparking made the wire get HOT and burn off all the insulation. Like I said the wire was NOT touching anything else, so in theory, the wire should have still been working as it should, except that pin out on the connector was melted and distorted so the connector may have not been connected. After the bulkhead connector, the gray wire runs behind the dash and then Back up into the engine bay and over to the LARGE red wire that is the main battery wire on the drivers side of engine, where you can connect a battery charger. There is a fusible link and I confirmed it's ok as well as all of the other fusible links in that area.
I don't think it would be the crankshaft sensor, because the pump never even primes when the key is turned, so I ruled this out.
I know this is alot to read and follow, but I think my next step should be to replace the ECU, however they are hard to come by I know. I'll probably call A.R.T. tomorrow and see if they have one I can borrow for testing.
I'm going to post this on both boards simply because I am running out of ideas and growing tired of getting nowhere. I troubleshoot electronic products for a living and I have done tons of mechanic work and built hot rods, so I'm no newbie and I ALWAYS try to do my own work, unless I have to take it to a shop, it's just the way I am. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated.
-The frustrated -FROG-
SO, I repaired the burned wire today (I didn't see anywhere where it grounded out or shorted to anything, it had a rubber boot around it so the wire was isolated safely, so I was skeptical about it being the actual problem and more of, "part of the problem").
Here is what the problem/issue is... My car will not start BECAUSE the fuel pump is not getting the voltage/signal it needs to turn on. The fuel pump does NOT prime when I turn the key and the Schroeder valve does not release any pressurized fuel, because none builds up. I have replaced the fuel pump relay in the trunk and all the relays under the heater core (fan/AC/starter, etc...) and double checked the pump itself by applying voltage from a battery charger for a split second.
The wire that was burned.... (I TRACED IT FROM END TO END). It's a grey wire, about a 12 or 14 gage wire. It begins at the Alternator with a few other wires in the same bundle. It runs from the alternator, down to the row of relays, under the heater blower fan and then into the bulkhead connector next to the relays. This is where the wire burned and from the looks of it, it burned because the connector was not allowing a good connection, to the constant arching/sparking made the wire get HOT and burn off all the insulation. Like I said the wire was NOT touching anything else, so in theory, the wire should have still been working as it should, except that pin out on the connector was melted and distorted so the connector may have not been connected. After the bulkhead connector, the gray wire runs behind the dash and then Back up into the engine bay and over to the LARGE red wire that is the main battery wire on the drivers side of engine, where you can connect a battery charger. There is a fusible link and I confirmed it's ok as well as all of the other fusible links in that area.
I don't think it would be the crankshaft sensor, because the pump never even primes when the key is turned, so I ruled this out.
I know this is alot to read and follow, but I think my next step should be to replace the ECU, however they are hard to come by I know. I'll probably call A.R.T. tomorrow and see if they have one I can borrow for testing.
I'm going to post this on both boards simply because I am running out of ideas and growing tired of getting nowhere. I troubleshoot electronic products for a living and I have done tons of mechanic work and built hot rods, so I'm no newbie and I ALWAYS try to do my own work, unless I have to take it to a shop, it's just the way I am. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated.
-The frustrated -FROG-
Still have your soft top...
