Going to the track with my GTS any advice?

[Timnineside]

As the title states any advice? I am taking my HRE's off and putting my stockies back on. I am running the MX4's on the front stocks, and thinking about putting the BFG Drag radials on the rear in a 345/30/18.

Also any advice on fluids, bads, rotors, mounts etc would be greatly apprecieated. Our local car club rented the track for private use so there won't be any extreme beating on the car, just some open fun and some hot-laps maybe.

Also the course in Gingerman in Southern MI

Thanks!

-Tim

 

[01sapphirebob]

Have fun!

 

[Dom426h]

Your post has me confused. Are you talking about a dragstrip or roadcourse? Your tire selection; AllSeason tires up front and Drag radials rear might be suitable for a dragstrip but would be a very very poor choice for a roadcourse.

How much time before the event?
What tires are on your HRE's?

 

[Timnineside]

Your post has me confused. Are you talking about a dragstrip or roadcourse? Your tire selection; AllSeason tires up front and Drag radials rear might be suitable for a dragstrip but would be a very very poor choice for a roadcourse.

How much time before the event?
What tires are on your HRE's?

This is why I need help!!! It is a road course. I would be practically stealing the BFG's if I order them. I also do a litttle drag racing here and there. I am looking for sticky tire for the rear because I know I am not a pro racer, but seem to have the most problems spinning the rears but do okay with cornering.

My HRE's are 20x10 front with pirelli nero's, and the rear are 20x13 with pirelli Rosso's. (the reason I would rather not track them because of the 20" diameter, and $$$$)

Tire size is 295/25/20 fronts, and 345/25/20 rear

Thanks for any and all advice!

-Tim

 

[NI-KA]

Did you do a search ? check your ***

 

[GTS Dean]

Do NOT run DRs at a road course. You're better off with 4 matching construction/compound/age tires. Start out with about 29-30 psi in all 4 corners. Be sure you have fresh DOT 4 550/600 brake fluid and a GOOD flush. Make sure you have a full oil pan and that you don't have air trapped in your cooling system. Remove the floormats and all loose items from the cockpit/hatch area. And, last but not least - wear a good helmet.

 

[Leslie]

Do NOT run DRs at a road course. You're better off with 4 matching construction/compound/age tires. Start out with about 29-30 psi in all 4 corners. Be sure you have fresh DOT 4 550/600 brake fluid and a GOOD flush. Make sure you have a full oil pan and that you don't have air trapped in your cooling system. Remove the floormats and all loose items from the cockpit/hatch area. And, last but not least - wear a good helmet.

What he said! No DR's on a road course...do a brake fluid flush with a god Dot 4 like Motul 600... make sure it's not overly full or mast cyl will 'weep'.. Same with power steering fluid, take a little out and make sure the cap is on TIGHT... and add a qt of oil.

I was at Gingerman today. That track is a bit ******* brakes and tires.

 

[MTGTS]

change your brake fluid to @ LEAST Motul 600
check your pads and make sure there's plenty left
check your endlinks and swaybar mounts
depending on mileage fresh diff fluid
check your coolant (if old replace and add water wetter)
how long has it been since an alignment.
get a set of matching tires
fresh oil and make sure it's full
helmet


notice there is nothing on this list that gives you more hp, you have plenty. Learn to control what you already have before trying to get more.

 

[DrumrBoy]

If the track is tough on brakes and you have some blingy cross-drilled pieces on there for the street, either inspect them after every run, or buy at least a set of stock rotors for the front. The blingy ones look great but can crack much more easily when they get hot.....and you definitely don't want to run with big cracks. Stockers are pretty cheap insurance against this....and preserve the cool-looking ones for the street.

 

[agentf1]

Keep it off the wall. ;-)

 

[Dom426h]

How much time do you have till the event and are you willing to spend $$$ on a new set of tires for the 18"s for just one trackday?

Is your Viper still for sale?

If you do buy new tires you could always keep them to put on a set of lightweight 18's for your future Gen3/4

Go withe the Michilen PS2's or if your on a budget ViperPartsOfAmerica sells the NITTO NT-05, a nice choice for street & track as well.

Have you ever had an alignment done on your viper? Do you know what the specs are?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I can't imagine a road course would be any fun at all on drag radials. Listen to Dean.

 

[DrumrBoy]

Depends on ones definition of fun. If you mean nailing apexes and tightening sweepers up, then no the drag radials wouldn't be fun. If fun is sliding all over the place, drifting close to walls and and not being able to hold turns that a bicycle could hold....then the drag radials'd be GREAT!

 

[agentf1]

Keep it off the wall. ;-)

Duh, I read drag radials and assumed drag racing. Yes, as others stated you do not want to be using drag radials for a track event. I would try to borrow tires if possible.

 

[Timnineside]

Alright, well thanks for all the help guys/gals! It really does help me. Yes I did do a search, and you guys all pointed out some of the same pro's/con's. But I also was looking for a bit more specific advise.

Obviously this will be my first track day so as far as budget goes I want to do things that make the most sense, but I will probably not get too carried away to require major things.

Here is what I am planning on so far:

1-Check/change all fluid
2-Add a quart of oil
3-Make sure not to overfill new brake fluid (use upgraded fluid)
4-take out some power steering fluid
5-Get the Bling front rotors off and throw stocks back on (I kept them)
6-Good tires on stockies all around.

Any more adivce would be GREAT! I will probably run with some PS2's if I can get a decent price I just don't want to drop a lot, but will if I must.


Also what do you guys think about the Toyo Proxes RA1's??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0574865113&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Thanks a million! And thanks NI-KA for the PM!

-Tim

 

[Timnineside]

How much time do you have till the event and are you willing to spend $$$ on a new set of tires for the 18"s for just one trackday?

Is your Viper still for sale?

If you do buy new tires you could always keep them to put on a set of lightweight 18's for your future Gen3/4

Go withe the Michilen PS2's or if your on a budget ViperPartsOfAmerica sells the NITTO NT-05, a nice choice for street & track as well.

Have you ever had an alignment done on your viper? Do you know what the specs are?

The day we have the track is Aug 19th. Pretty much going to start off with just this track day, but I have a good feeling I may get hooked.

Yeah the Viper is still for sale which is another reason I won't beat the car up too bad, but still have to use the thing for what its made for and we will only have 10 cars on the track, maybe only 3-5 running at once.

I had the alignment done about 2 months ago. I don't know the specs, but just dropped the car so it was set so I don't burn threw the 20s.

Thanks!

-Tim

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

1-Check/change all fluid - Yes
2-Add a quart of oil - Just up to the full line, no more.
3-Make sure not to overfill new brake fluid (use upgraded fluid) - Just up to the full line. Bring extra and add as needed throughout the day.
4-take out some power steering fluid - No. Flush it and fill with new up to the full line. Make sure the cap is tight.
5-Get the Bling front rotors off and throw stocks back on (I kept them) - Probably. I don't know what blingers you have.
6-Good tires on stockies all around. - Yes.

7. Fresh brake pads if your current pads are worn too much.

 

[Timnineside]

I have good pads, but my blingers are cheepies for looks pretty much.

Also Chuck do you have a opinion on the Toyo Proxes RA 1's???

Thanks!

-Tim

 

[MTGTS]

I know a couple of my porches buddies like them better than the 888's. I have never ran the RA-1's. I know thay are MUCH better than drag radials. BUT, if you put RA-1's in the back you need to put them up front as well. Once those RA1's get warmed up you will have WAY more grip in the back than you will in the front.

I have good pads, but my blingers are cheepies for looks pretty much.

Also Chuck do you have a opinion on the Toyo Proxes RA 1's???

Thanks!



-Tim

 

[Timnineside]

Is way more grip in the back such a big deal? That is where I tend to spin them the most, and I don't think I will be hitting turns that fast to break the fronts loose?

Like I said tho this is all new to me. Looking for any and all advice! But just thinking the RA1's would help me pull after the corners a bit with less spin.

 

[GTS Dean]

It isnt just the traction, it has everything to do with tire construction and consistent, predictable behavior f/r. A lot of experienced, knowledgeable owners are trying to give you solid advice. Please don't take it lightly.

 

[72hemi]

You definitely don't want to have mix-matched tires on your car. Buy a full set.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I have not run Toyos. I like Michelins and Hoosiers.

 

[DrumrBoy]

If you're going to get new tires for the stock wheels, the best street-legal track tire I've found is the Kumho V700. (the V710 is also DOT legal, but the same way a Hoosier R6 is, but it is worthless in rain/wet....where the V700 has a full tread pattern and can actually be driven on the street without fear-of-death in an afternoon thunderstorm). They're less expensive than the Michelins and stick better on track days. The wear rating is 80 or 100 or something like that so they're not going to last for 20,000 miles....but if they're primarily for the track, they're a good choice.

 

[my viper]

If you're going to get new tires for the stock wheels, the best street-legal track tire I've found is the Kumho V700. (the V710 is also DOT legal, but the same way a Hoosier R6 is, but it is worthless in rain/wet....where the V700 has a full tread pattern and can actually be driven on the street without fear-of-death in an afternoon thunderstorm). They're less expensive than the Michelins and stick better on track days. The wear rating is 80 or 100 or something like that so they're not going to last for 20,000 miles....but if they're primarily for the track, they're a good choice.

Unfortunately, Kumho isn't making the V700 in Viper sizes anymore. Tim, definitely go with 4 same tires.

 

[KNG SNKE]

You have a new paint job. Coat up your front bumper wheels wells and under the rear bumper or you are going to have smeared rubber on your paint. Use wax or something similiar to it.

 

[Timnineside]

You have a new paint job. Coat up your front bumper wheels wells and under the rear bumper or you are going to have smeared rubber on your paint. Use wax or something similiar to it.

Great idea! I can't use wax though because of the Matte finish. Any ideas on what to cover the paint with other than wax?

Also NO offense to the people helping, my ignorance is trying to figure some things out. I honestly didn't even think of the heating up/traction of the tires. Makes A LOT of sense now that its explained.

I will probably just run my Michelins then I just remember I had some major issue's smoking the rears a lot, but I guess I will just have to heat them up good.

Thanks a lot again for all the help!

Also going to pick that Brake fluid up off from ebay how much should I need? Half quart fine? Also do I have to drain all the lines??

-Tim

 

[MTGTS]

Which brake fluid??

Start the rears off @ about 30psi and adjust from there. Fronts prob. 32

 

[Timnineside]

Going with the Motul 600.

Will do on the tires!

 

[DrumrBoy]

Unfortunately, Kumho isn't making the V700 in Viper sizes anymore. Tim, definitely go with 4 same tires.

Whatever, but I just checked Tire Rack and the 305/30/18 and 335/30/18's are in stock....the 335's are actually priced below $200....they must be getting out of making that size.