Have to buy another motor, any sugestions

MR_SRL

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Hi guys, threw a rod back in October, after fighting Dodge I have finally given up and now need to buy another motor. Found a 04' (my car is an 04') with 15k miles for $7500. Any other suggestions on other places would be greatly appreciated.
 

Matt M PA

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If future value means anything to you...rebuilt/repair the original. (Unless it's beyond that) The VIN is stamped on the engine and trans. It will probably be many years until anyone cares though...
 

fqberful

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DAAAAAAAAAMMMMNNNNN!!!!!! :omg:

For a stock rebuild?

"Throwing a rod" usually congers up images of holes where they shouldn't be like the side of the block. If that's the case, 15-18k isn't out of the question given the cost of a new short block and then rebuilding the heads and stuff.

--FQB
 

99 R/T 10

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Hi guys, threw a rod back in October, after fighting Dodge I have finally given up and now need to buy another motor. Found a 04' (my car is an 04') with 15k miles for $7500. Any other suggestions on other places would be greatly appreciated.

Does your engine have the crank sensor in the side of the block or the rear?

PM me if I can help.
 
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coupe

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99 R/T 10 said:
Does your engine have the crank sensor in the side of the block or the rear?

'92-'02 have crank sensor on the side of block.
'03 & '04 have the sensor in rear (reads off flywheel trigger)
'05 + have the sensor on the side of block again.
 

99 R/T 10

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'92-'02 have crank sensor on the side of block.
'03 & '04 have the sensor in rear (reads off flywheel trigger)
'05 + have the sensor on the side of block again.


I thought so too, but have heard of a couple of late 2004 cars having the sensors in the side, could have been an engine swap.

I could build the rear sensor engine and crank for about $7500(short block). Forged pistons/rods. Are your heads in good shape?
 

mykes

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Hi guys, threw a rod back in October, after fighting Dodge I have finally given up and now need to buy another motor. Found a 04' (my car is an 04') with 15k miles for $7500. Any other suggestions on other places would be greatly appreciated.
Garrett is this you?
 

cfiiman

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***, I don't get how a rebuild costs 18K??????? Isn't this just a regular motor that is why it is so simple to work on, why can't a good machine shop just rebuild it at a "normal" price. I'm thinking about when I had some older 350's quoted, it wasn't much at all, what the hell is going on different???? Sorry if this seems to be a stupid question, but it seems like machine work, is machine work, and rings, seals etc. couldn't possibly be that much so what is costing so much?
 

X-Metal

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***, I don't get how a rebuild costs 18K??????? Isn't this just a regular motor that is why it is so simple to work on, why can't a good machine shop just rebuild it at a "normal" price. I'm thinking about when I had some older 350's quoted, it wasn't much at all, what the hell is going on different???? Sorry if this seems to be a stupid question, but it seems like machine work, is machine work, and rings, seals etc. couldn't possibly be that much so what is costing so much?
you are right. i have built several and its not much more than any other engine. arrow is on crack if thats legit.
 

cfiiman

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^^^^^^ Thanks goodness someone agrees with me, I mean I can understand if this was some special metal that had to be dug with a luner lander on Mars come come the F$^@ on, can't any machine shop dismantel, clean, magnafulx or whatever, bore/hone it, rebuild the heads with new springs or valves or whatever, a new timing chain, well you get the idea for around what any other motor is. I know it has 2 more cylinders so there is some more expense there, and honestly I could understand 18K if you had a motor that was a true 1200hp race engine or something, but holy $hit, do people just pay them that b/c they ask them too????????? If I'm missing something please someone school me, I seriously want to know just for my own knowledge. In fact I'm going to call my local performance machine shop and ask them tomorrow how much if I brought in a Viper V10 what it would cost to rebuild it, I'll repost my findings, unless again I am missing something that there is a reason this thing can't be rebuilt except by Astronauts that wear gold plated suits on the sun?
 

ViperGeorge

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Once the engine is out and torn down you will likely find extensive damage to the block. Throwing a rod is bad on blocks. Speaking from experience here.
 

plumcrazy

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17K should include the taking out the engine and reinstalling it.

there are good used engine around for a lot cheaper im sure.
 

Y2K5SRT

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I suspect Arrow's price could also be for a brand new Gen III crate engine with all the accessories on it (A/C compressor, etc.)...
 

SquadX

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Buy used and save. take out and reinstall should run 12 hrs (6 out/6 in). At least thats how long it took my tech.

Either pay to have it torn down and build better (if plans for more power in future) or save on torn down and buy used and sell other engine or part out (heads, block, etc.).
 

SquadX

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Also, what happen in dealing with Dodge? if car was under warranty (extended) I assume they completed a torn down and found something they fault was odd (in there eyes=bs)?
 
OP
OP
M

MR_SRL

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Thanks for the advise guys, I loss the fight with dodge because they said the rod went due to low oil, and unfortunately for me I had been changing my own oil, so they put all the blame on me. Arrow said that if I threw a rod it would be extensive damage to the block, and thats why the extremely high cost. Im just concerned now with depreciation due to a different motor.
 
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Thanks for the advise guys, I loss the fight with dodge because they said the rod went due to low oil, and unfortunately for me I had been changing my own oil, so they put all the blame on me. Arrow said that if I threw a rod it would be extensive damage to the block, and thats why the extremely high cost. Im just concerned now with depreciation due to a different motor.

There are plenty of Viper's out there running around without numbers of the same. I would have no reservation replacing the engine with another. Unless of course you plan on keeping your car for another 40-50 years ;)

Good luck with your new engine and hope you get back in the saddle again soon!

Regards,
 

Viperless

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Thanks for the advise guys, I loss the fight with dodge because they said the rod went due to low oil, and unfortunately for me I had been changing my own oil, so they put all the blame on me. Arrow said that if I threw a rod it would be extensive damage to the block, and thats why the extremely high cost. Im just concerned now with depreciation due to a different motor.

***?!?!? :confused:
 

plumcrazy

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it sounds like there is a lot more to this story. but i seriously doubt chaning the engine out would ever change any value of the car. nobody would even know.
 
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Thanks for the advise guys, I loss the fight with dodge because they said the rod went due to low oil, and unfortunately for me I had been changing my own oil, so they put all the blame on me. Arrow said that if I threw a rod it would be extensive damage to the block, and thats why the extremely high cost. Im just concerned now with depreciation due to a different motor.

I think the car will have more value if the original block can be repaired. If you do switch blocks, it is something that you would need to inform a potential buyer of. Some will not care, but many will. It is something that can be used to leverage you into lowering your selling price. Not that anyone would do that though, right? :omg:

Whatever engine goes back into the car, if possible, have the crank converted to Chevy oiling. More oil will reach the rod bearings and they will last longer.

Here is what it looks like. It's simply 5/16" set screws installed into the cross drilled passages of the crankshaft. The open hole you see is a passage that feeds oil to the rod bearing.

You must be registered for see images



Good luck.
 
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Flexx91

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If you do switch blocks, it is something that you would need to inform a potential buyer of.
Good luck.

Need to and want to are two different things. You may want to inform the potential buyer in good faith but you don't need to. Buying used vehicles is "caveat emptor" (buyer beware). The only situation in which the condition of the vehicle has to be disclosed to the buyer is if it has been wrecked and the seller is an actual car dealership (not a private seller).

There was a lot more to this story as I recall. To recap, Dodge is blaming you for the low oil situation which they believe was the cause of the failure (thrown rod). You admitted changing your own oil and they believe you underfilled it. My suggestion to you was to make them check every single nook and cranny for a possible oil leak. If no oil leak was found (car was not burning oil as you stated), then I hate to say it but it must have been underfilled. If the block is damaged, then it needs a whole new engine. You can't worry about the depreciation factor - you have no other choice if you still want to keep this car. Option two would be to try to sell it "as-is" since a new or Arrow rebuilt engine is going to cost you at least $15k anyway.
 
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Black Moon

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Too many assumptions. Tear it down and find out what the damage is yourself or have someone local tear it down for you. Arrow has NO idea what is wrong with your engine. It could be a simple spun crank or rod bearing. These motors aren't rocket science but the parts are very expensive. I'd do further inspection of what your options are IMHO. Good luck.
 

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