Help with Stereo Install...

[ViperJames]

First Do i REALLY need to disconnect the battery when swapping out ONLY the DIN head unit?

If so.......is there an easier way to do this other than taking the the panel off the rear and accessing the battery?

Thanks guys.

 

[dave6666]

That's to keep you from getting electrocuted with the key off and the power obviously down.

LOL.

If you disconnect the battery to replace the head unit you will be the first. EVER!

 

[ViperJames]

Dave thanks for the reply because disconnecting the Battery is more of a process than the head unit! LOL. I was just asking because all the instructions say to disconnect the negative terminal, but the way i see it, if all the power is off, i don't see how there can be any electocuting going on...just like changing lights in my house, if the swtich is off, why do i need to shut the power main off? THanks Dave.

 

[Red Snake]

Dave thanks for the reply because disconnecting the Battery is more of a process than the head unit! LOL. I was just asking because all the instructions say to disconnect the negative terminal, but the way i see it, if all the power is off, i don't see how there can be any electocuting going on...just like changing lights in my house, if the swtich is off, why do i need to shut the power main off? THanks Dave.

Just remember that there will be 1 or 2 wires that are full time hot, so just make sure that they don't "bump" anything thats grounded or you'll be replacing a fuse or 2.

 

[Phun70]

Dave thanks for the reply because disconnecting the Battery is more of a process than the head unit! LOL. I was just asking because all the instructions say to disconnect the negative terminal, but the way i see it, if all the power is off, i don't see how there can be any electocuting going on...just like changing lights in my house, if the swtich is off, why do i need to shut the power main off? THanks Dave.

For the most part you are correct, however, when the light switch is off in your house it is not guaranteed that there is no power to the light socket. Some electricians will use what is called a switch loop, and in some cases the power goes to the socket first and they are switching the neutral side of the circuit with the switch, so yes, you could be electrocuted even with the switch off. As for the car stereo, this should probably be a plug and play if you get the right install harness and aren't cutting any wires, so the power wires to the stereo from the vehicle harness are encapsulated in the connector and should not be able to contact a ground unless you are careless with the ground strap. Hope this helps. Mark

 

[dave6666]

Be careful of the pink wire!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ViperJames]

Guys i really appreciate all the help......NOW i have everything apart, and I realized i needed the audio DIN adapter....got one. NOw i need to know is this a HIGH output or LOW output? Meaning do the audio wires get wired into the RCA jacks or do they get wired in to the high output main piece? THanks.

 

[dave6666]

If you are using the factory amp then you need the low level RCA outputs. I used the factory amp when I upgraded the head and that works well.

 

[Roy]

First Do i REALLY need to disconnect the battery when swapping out ONLY the DIN head unit?

If so.......is there an easier way to do this other than taking the the panel off the rear and accessing the battery?

Thanks guys.

Under the hood on the left side you've got an red cap, there you can cut the battery in order not to go through the back trunk!

The service manual ALWAYS says to take the battery loose, but on most jobs it really is unnecessary. For instance, with changing the oilpan gasket I had to take the battery loose, according to the manual, but when the oilpan is under power, I guess there is something terribly wrong.

 

[dave6666]

Undoing the battery at the PDC runs the risk of spinning out the embedded lug internally, of which the known fix for that is new car wiring harness.

 

[ViperJames]

WOuld it make more sense to bypass the Amp and just wire new speakers? I heard the stock amp is junk anyway....

 

[dave6666]

All your speaker wires terminate at the rear amp, so what's your plan to get those wires up front?

Most head units have basic amps. If the OE amp is also just basic (or junk...), then why go to all the trouble to rewire the whole car's speaker system *** for tat kinda move?

 

[ViperJames]

All your speaker wires terminate at the rear amp, so what's your plan to get those wires up front?

Most head units have basic amps. If the OE amp is also just basic (or junk...), then why go to all the trouble to rewire the whole car's speaker system *** for tat kinda move?

I would install new speakers, and run new wire, I am thinking that might be the best way overall, no?

 

[dave6666]

I installed new speakers F/R and a new head and kept the stock amp. A fraction of the work that you describe and I bet all the same sound.

Have you ever gutted the interior of your car? I have. It's a lot of work.

 

[ViperJames]

I installed new speakers F/R and a new head and kept the stock amp. A fraction of the work that you describe and I bet all the same sound.

Have you ever gutted the interior of your car? I have. It's a lot of work.

I guess its just that i am trying to avoid rewiring the DIN, I can't figure out which are for what wires....

 

[Roy]

Undoing the battery at the PDC runs the risk of spinning out the embedded lug internally, of which the known fix for that is new car wiring harness.

I guess this is a reply to my post, please explain to me, what is a "lug" and what is a PDC? Shouldn't I cut the power under the hood?

 

[dave6666]

My notes I took are the following on the DIN cable:

Red unshielded - front speaker input to amp
Yel unshielded - rear speaker input to amp
Brn unshielded - grd all amp inputs
Wht in gray jacket - front speaker input to amp
Red in gray jacket - rear speaker input to amp
Shield in gray jacket - amp remote turn on
Blk unshielded - not used

I did not apparently write down which are left and right but just play with them.

The "lug" is here, and the PDC is your Power Distribution Center.

You must be registered for see images

 

[RTTTTed]

Great answers dave.

Changing out the head unit while retaining the stock ALPINE amp results in zero sound quality change. Changing out the speakers results in a HUGE sound quality upgrade. Although the stock wires are small guage, they seem to work fine with good speakers. Stock head unit and amp are ALPINE and good quality. The speakers are not good quality and should be changed.

Ted

Ted

 

[shmoos]

MySpace - Sound Auto - 33 - Male - Hamilton, New Jersey - myspace.com/soundautomotive

The above link is to a shop that installed an aftermarket radio in my 2000 without cutting factory harness. They did a good job and since they are an alpine dealer they were familiar with the wire set up.

 

[ViperJames]

[media]http://gallery.viperclub.org/uploads/25344/viperstereo_004.JPG[/media]

Dave you have been an incredible help i really appreicate it a lot....Here is what i am trying to do....This is a picture of a DIN cable adapter that my stereo guy gave me. He said to open the wire, which i have done, and connect them to the appropriate speaker wires on the New stereo harness as shown. The issue at hand is WHICH wire from the adapter goes where? I obviously have the map from the new piece which shows what those wires are, but i have no map for the Din piece.....If anyone can help me with this, i think i will be gold......

 

[GTSnake]

The OE amp and head unit are junk. They are nicely "branded" but still OE quality. Which means cost cutting at every corner to barely pass specs. The components used on OE quality equipment are usually the cheapest you can find. If you want good build quality and sound quality go with high end aftermarket stuff (ie JL Audio). It will cost you more but you will end up with a much better system. You get what you pay for.

Now in your case if you want the best bang for the buck. I would swap out speakers and amp to make the most sound quality impact. However with that DIN connection and aftermarket amp it's just easier to swap the head unit too.

Here's the wiring diagram to tap into the vehicle speaker wiring. I tapped into these in the rear corner where the OE amp sat.

Dodge Wiring - Page 2

 

[dave6666]

but i have no map for the Din piece.....

I'm confused, which is strange at this time of day as I'm drinking coffee and not beer, but which DIN piece do you need mapped; the new one that the stereo guy gave you? You need to know what pins on it do what in relation to the DIN plug on the car's factory cable? So you can connect the plug for the back of the radio to the DIN pigtail in the pic? Do I have it right?

That is right up there with the cupholder mystery

Really, I'd skip the noble step of preserving the factory plug, whack it off, and splice in your RCA connectors etc.

 

[dave6666]

Here's the wiring diagram to tap into the vehicle speaker wiring. I tapped into these in the rear corner where the OE amp sat.

Dodge Wiring - Page 2

Same as in the service manual - no info on the DIN cable.

 

[HPmopars]

I think the top of the factory head unit has wiring pin diagram? Also if you decide to cut off the end of the factory din cable, it's not that big of a deal to replace. In my car anyway (a 2002), the din cable at the head unit is only about a foot long, it connects to a second din cable right before it goes through the "firewall" to the rear. (cable runs under car) If you pull off the driver side "knee" panel you can't reach the connection fairly easy.

-Greg

 

[Red Snake]

Use the wiring diagram on top of the stock head unit to figure out where each wire in the factory wiring harness goes and splice into them to hook up your stereo. That is the EASIEST way to install a new head unit.

Also, use the factory amp. If you are installing a new head unit and new speakers the factory amp will work great. The only downside to using the factory amp that you'll have to go with a self amplified subwoofer, should you choose to add one. This is because the factory amp doesn't have enough "channels" to power the speakers AND a subwoofer.

I just went thru all of this. Here's the thread I posted.

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/633884-gts-stereo-upgrade.html

 

[jcaspar1]

Pulling the fuse might be easier.

First Do i REALLY need to disconnect the battery when swapping out ONLY the DIN head unit?

If so.......is there an easier way to do this other than taking the the panel off the rear and accessing the battery?

Thanks guys.

 

[GTSnake]

Same as in the service manual - no info on the DIN cable.

Well if you replace the amp AND the head unit you wouldn't need the DIN cable anymore.

 

[RTTTTed]

I looked for my color codes from the DIN cable when I replaced my Alpine with a Premier DEH 790BT. But, ... I couldn't find it - sorry. I did PM a couple guys with the color codes of the DIN cable and since no one has filled in the colors I guess you'll have to figure out the wires yourself. Keep the volume low on the stereo so that there is no problem if you touch wires wrong. Use the two braided wires as the grounds to test the wiring. One braid is for front and one is for rear (if I remember my wiring from 2 years ago correctly?).

Ted