how hard is it to change the rear end?

[snampro]

I've been think about changing my rear end gears and I have a couple options, either buying another pumpkin with new gears or pulling mine and have gears put in. Either way I would need to remove what's on the car now and reinstall it. How difficult is that assembly to remove? Seems like its a few bolts to pull the halfshafts and driveshaft off, then unbolt the rearend from the frame and lower it? Is it really that easy?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

It is not difficult. You have to remove the exhaust. After that it is very straightforward. A young buck could do it in a day and take the woman out for dinner. It took this old man considerably longer.

 

[snampro]

thanks for the feedback. it seems like it would be easy.

exhaust won't be a problem for me because I have a real VIPER...with sidepipes (just joking).

 

[snampro]

just to satisfy any potential curiosity, the already-assembled option is a 3.73 gear setup, which, with my larger overall diameter tires, will give me the results of a 3.55.

also, will a GEN II assembly (pumkin and everything) bolt onto a Gen I???

 

[GTSnake]

While you're in there you can do the drain plug mod too.

 

[ViperDave]

Sounds easy, Looks easy and is easy unless the darn thing decides to fight you. Spent hours trying to get the thing out, gave up for the day and it practically fell out the next morning. Same putting it back. Was just getting to the point where i was convinced i had bent something and it wasn't going in when it just slid into place, of course i did it the hard way outside on axle stands in a uk January.

 

[snampro]

thanks guys.

anyone know if a complete diff assembly (carrier and pumpkin) from a GenII will bolt into a GenI???

 

[AviP]

exhaust won't be a problem for me because I have a real VIPER...with sidepipes (just joking).

I don't think you need to remove sidepipe exhausts for a rear-end change. Anybody want to chime in here?

 

[snampro]

exhaust won't be a problem for me because I have a real VIPER...with sidepipes (just joking).

I don't think you need to remove sidepipe exhausts for a rear-end change. Anybody want to chime in here?

yeah, that's what I was saying, it definitely won't be an issue.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

exhaust won't be a problem for me because I have a real VIPER...with sidepipes (just joking).

I don't think you need to remove sidepipe exhausts for a rear-end change. Anybody want to chime in here?

Side exhaust has to be removed or he won't be able to reach the front bolt to the johnson rod.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

With Belanger exhaust on a GEN II--you don't need to get into the sidesills at all. With a rack and air tools, we did the whole assembly in 2 hours and fifteen minutes. Being able to get the car in the air is a big time saver.

Steve

 

[JGK95]

thanks guys.

anyone know if a complete diff assembly (carrier and pumpkin) from a GenII will bolt into a GenI???

you + call to Chuck Tator == Answer!



Jay K.

 

[snampro]

yeah, Chuck's busy and I don't like to bother him with every question.

 

[Jack B]

A couple of hints:

1. Get new straps and bolts for the half-shafts and the drive shaft. The bolts are a metric thread and sets are not always easy to find.

2. Make sure you have movement in the half-shafts (in/out) otherwise you will have a hard time dropping the the assembly down. A twisted spline will make it tough to do the job.

3. On a Gen2 you cannot pull the pumkin the whole assembly has to come down, I assume it is the same for the Gen1.

4. As was stated put in a 3/8 npt plug.

5. When you pull the straps have the car on stands even if on a lift, so you can rotate the half shafts get a good socket position on the strap bolts and use a hex, not a nine point socket. You don't want to strip one. A 24" extension helps you get the bolts from the outside with the tires off. I use a jack plate on the lift and have the car supported by the frame in the rear.

6. If the strap bolts are new, but, have been on the shelf for a while, the thread lock may have hardened. You will know by how hard the bolts go in. If that is the case remove the old thread lock and use some new blue.

7. You have to raise the passenger side (of the diff assembly) and lower the drivers side and it is tight when it drops.

8. A transmission jack also helps.

9. If your exhaust breaks in the back, only the rear portion has to be removed.

 

[Tom Sessions]

Yes a gen 2 diff will bolt up into a gen 1 bucket of bolts. err i mean car:}

 

[Whoaa GTS]

Hemi autoworks had my differential switched in about 40 minutes from beginning to end! That scores me some points huh SNKBITE??? ahhaaha

 

[Early93Viper]

thanks guys.

anyone know if a complete diff assembly (carrier and pumpkin) from a GenII will bolt into a GenI???

Yes, it will. I destroyed my GEN I diff at the track got a used GEN II for $600 bolted right up. One of the easiset jobs you can do.

 

[snampro]

thanks guys, I think I'm going to do this.

any thoughts on price? the one I'm looking at has 3.73 gears and was driven for 4,000 miles, listed for $850, and its local

 

[Jack B]

Tom:

please clarify, we know the pumkin fits, but, does the complete differential assembly fit without mods?

 

[SNKEBIT]

gen.1 & 2= same, fits without mods

gen.3 is a different pumpkin

 

[Whoaa GTS]

Mitch change your avatar....1. Your viper isnt red
2. You never have the top off

 

[Johann]

3. On a Gen2 you cannot pull the pumkin the whole assembly has to come down, I assume it is the same for the Gen1.

Could you elaborate, it sure looks like you can just unbolt the carrier from the cover/mount. What is the point of interference?