Once again, I see a thread deteriorating due to myths and misconceptions. First of all, dynos are ok for determining if a given modification has increased power, BUT NOT ALL MODIFICATIONS. Modifications to air induction will show their true gains on the dragstrip when 120+ mph air is ramming through them, lighter weight valve gear will show an acceleration gain at the track more so than on the machine.
Use the dyno for what it is, a tuning machine, and not a very accurate one at that. We were dynoing last week and with the humidity at 87.6 F and the temperature at 88 F the dyno computer told us that our correction factor was 1.00. Rediculous! Anyone with a little knowledge of the weather knows that when the temp and dew point/humidity are equal in value, you get visible moisture-rain-fog, etc. These are the worst conditions(visible moisture is taking place of oxygen which the engine likes.......your engine does not burn water worth a crap!). A 1.00 correction factor should be set to meterological STANDARD DAY which is 29.92 baro with 59 F temp at sea level(the 29.92 number is then calculated for feet above sea level that the facility is at, hence the correction) Just like an airplane altimeter. All reciprocating and turbine aircraft engines are tested and certified in the above manner.
In any event, changing to a higher numerical gear will speed up the time of a dyno pull, at the same time it makes it easier for the drivetrain to move the mass of the drum. So, again, higher numerical gear should not make a change in power to a negative value, if anything your numbers should be better with a 3.55 gear through a 4th gear pull.
I suggest that if you see your numbers decay, attempt another pull but through more of the rpm band(start at a lower rpm)to allow the dyno to have time to see your complete pull.
Or you can always buy a G-Tech!!LOL.....
Tom