I need a car trailer
- Thread starter jimchris
- Start date
HaulMark makes a nice hauler. The 8.5 x 20 ****** tail with side door dual 7,000 lb axles and electric brakes goes out the door at just under $7k. A little more for the same size but upgraded interior about $1,500 more.
Made by the same folks that build Feather Lite. Universal Trailers I think.
I would suggest to go with 10,000 lb axles. Do get a sway bar control and load equalizing hitch.
Top tier enclosed hauler can run to $30k.
Here is mine with a tow vehicle for up to 12,300 lbs. Two sway bars and a 10k lb load equalizing hitch.
Made by the same folks that build Feather Lite. Universal Trailers I think.
I would suggest to go with 10,000 lb axles. Do get a sway bar control and load equalizing hitch.
Top tier enclosed hauler can run to $30k.
Here is mine with a tow vehicle for up to 12,300 lbs. Two sway bars and a 10k lb load equalizing hitch.
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PittsburghRT
Enthusiast
I'd go with a Featherlite. Very well made and light weight.
fastmd
Enthusiast
I just went from an enclosed 24ft to a open 20ft Sloan Kwik load. Only about 400lbs heavier than a comparable featherlite at a much better price with all the bells and whistles. 10000lb winch, dual tor-flex axles at 7klbs, 4 electric brakes, deck lighting, removable fenders (however, not needed), wind fairing, etc... Standard viper drives right up, my lowered ACR still requires ramps.
I haven't decided on open or enclosed yet but I sure like your trailer. Do you have enough room to get your drivers door open or should I look for one with a driver side access door?
AZTVR
Enthusiast
Jim-Glo trailers have a very good reputation, at least as far as their open tilt-back trailer goes. I have seen their enclosed trailer like this one displayed at a Goodguys show and like how it opens up. I believe that the fender is removable also (at least as an option if you choose it.)
Mopar Boy
Enthusiast
Haulmark or Featherlite are both the best. Also the same company. 
Featherlite is good if weight is an issue but they are twice the price of a Haulmark if not a bit more.
I have a Haulmark and love it. I went 26 foot long so I had an area to stash junk at the front. I would highly suggest enclosed as it makes everything so easy. You can keep the car clean and protected in any weather, and no worries about vandalism when parking places overnight. I did the open flatbed trailer for 10 years, and let me tell ya, I will never go back! No more stone chips, cleaning the car when you get there, there is extra places for loot and suitcases now. Can even put a workbench in the front for storage and a table to work on!
If you even want to do a factory order with factory pickup, contact Robert (the owner) at Metro Trailer: Enclosed Trailers, Semi-Trailers, Liftgates, Trailer Repair Parts. They have the ability to arrange that for you unlike most dealers.
Yes, do get a side door. If you do not have the side escape door, you have to climb out the window. Also highly recommended is E Track. Allows you to strap the car without climbing under it! Also as IH4x4 said, go with the heavier axles if you can, 5200 at minimum. By the time you get your car, gear, and trailer wieght all added togeather, you will appreciate the extra weight capacity. And down the road you do not have to worry if you are using the trailer for something else like moving, etc. You know it can handle the weight.
Featherlite is good if weight is an issue but they are twice the price of a Haulmark if not a bit more.I have a Haulmark and love it. I went 26 foot long so I had an area to stash junk at the front. I would highly suggest enclosed as it makes everything so easy. You can keep the car clean and protected in any weather, and no worries about vandalism when parking places overnight. I did the open flatbed trailer for 10 years, and let me tell ya, I will never go back! No more stone chips, cleaning the car when you get there, there is extra places for loot and suitcases now. Can even put a workbench in the front for storage and a table to work on!
If you even want to do a factory order with factory pickup, contact Robert (the owner) at Metro Trailer: Enclosed Trailers, Semi-Trailers, Liftgates, Trailer Repair Parts. They have the ability to arrange that for you unlike most dealers.
Yes, do get a side door. If you do not have the side escape door, you have to climb out the window. Also highly recommended is E Track. Allows you to strap the car without climbing under it! Also as IH4x4 said, go with the heavier axles if you can, 5200 at minimum. By the time you get your car, gear, and trailer wieght all added togeather, you will appreciate the extra weight capacity. And down the road you do not have to worry if you are using the trailer for something else like moving, etc. You know it can handle the weight.
Mopar Boy
Enthusiast
Oh, I guess a better question. What is the tow vehicle? That will determine what kind of trailer you will need!
As for tow vehicle I have Peterbilt, Dodge Ram 2500 and Chevy Suburban. That e-track looks like a must. I was wondering how I was going to tie down the front. Car is having aero pkg installed this week plus car is lowered.Oh, I guess a better question. What is the tow vehicle? That will determine what kind of trailer you will need!
SylvanSRT
Enthusiast
I have heard good things about Aluminum Trailer Co. and Trailex
Mopar Boy
Enthusiast
We, I see no shortage of good tow vehicles there (well, my parents Suburban did not tow the trailer well at all but...).
With the Ram, you will have no issues!
If you are lowered, plus an airdam, you will have almost no way to get the frame hook points on the front. E track will be VERY helpful. If you end up with a trailer from somewhere that does not offer E track installed, you can get the tracks and Viper strappings from Macs Custom Tie Downs and Strapping. They have done many Viper setups so there should be no issue.
Robert
I have never used e-track in my trailers, I like to cross my straps to keep the car stable and so it doesn't wheel hop to either side because there is usually only an inch or so clearance on each side before you hit the trailer wheel wells...open or enclosed....I think that when you have to install the pulley set up on the e track to clear the wheel on the car, I would think that you are adding some extra slack in the strap and could possibly experience the car hopping to either side as you travel down the road ....this is just my $.02, hope I don't offend any e-track dealers....as to open trailers, if you have to decide based upon your budget, I can see going with the steel and IF the trailer can be stored indoors most of its life, but with the aluminum, they seem to pull easier, definitely hold their resale values and are nice looking units.....someone mentioned about longer ramps for an open trailer, what I do, I carry 2X12 planks -two nailed together so that it is 3 inches higher put these under the rear wheels of my tow vehicle and the rear of the trailer drops more than 3 inches lower which makes it easier to load lower type cars on the trailer, also when I arrive to where I am going to unload OR load, I look for a small dip in the lot or especially with my tow vehicle uphill of the trailer so that I winch on "uphill" and the car comes off easier as well PLUS this also helps to lower the rear of the trailer....hope this helps, I had to learn about trailering from sites like this and I guess we are entrusted to pass along the best methods as well...good luck..
AZTVR
Enthusiast
Do you winch because it is safer than driving it on/off, or is it because you can't open the door with it on your trailer. Just starting my learning process.
Mopar Boy
Enthusiast
past ohio - I thought that at first too. Truth be told, was not until I saw it in use for the first time that I actually believed in it. On the straps there are rubber chalks that actually go into the tread so the stap cannot slide sideways. As for the strap itself, it is 100% tight, no slack. When you torque the rachet, you watch for the tire to just start to squat. At that point they are tight. Much like when I used to X the straps at the back into the D rings and when you snap them you get a nice twang sound, it is the same for E Track straps. Twang the E track straps and you are good to go!
If you are concerned though, you can always E track the front and D ring the back (where it is easy to get under the car) like ACR Steve does. Then you have the comfort of mind.
If you are concerned though, you can always E track the front and D ring the back (where it is easy to get under the car) like ACR Steve does. Then you have the comfort of mind.
GBS
Enthusiast
I have a Featherlite. It's a very nice all aluminum trailer.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
If you have a dealer in your area, take a look at TPD. Great trailer and really good folks to work with. I have had 3 of them over the past 12 years-still own two of them and zero problems ever. They can custom build it anyway you want/need it pretty fast too. They are located in Sacramento CA.
TPD Trailers
Brian
GBS, I like your pictures and my open trailer is a Featherlite while my enclosed is a Haulmark.....both have advantages and disadvantages....(Just like not everyone likes chocolate ice cream) BUT looking at the car in your trailer, I wouldn't strap it down this way !! Looks like you are running the straps through the openings in your wheels and I don't see how you are straping the front, first that definitely damages the coating on the wheels, plus with the smooth floor you have, you could be driving somewhere and open the back door and the car has twisted to one side or the other and even hit the higher wheel-wells you have inside that trailer, because water or tire coating stuff leaked on the trailer floor under the wheels and makes the floor slippery, and unless you get on the frame as well, the car bounces around a lot...just my suggestion.....someone else posted about opening their driver's door if they got a side door on their enclosed trailer, you can buy 2 X 12 's at Lowes or Home Depot, screw them down on each side and put the car up on them when loading, keeping in mind that you get 1 1/2 inches height for each board, so if you need 3 inches, put in two boards per side, the car is higher, I would also suggest putting down some of the sandpaper type tape ( sometimes called non-slip tape) on the top of the board set up, to keep the car from moving in the trailer....just my $.02.....good luck
GBS
Enthusiast
The car in the trailer is an old 85 Vette I have in there because even with 2 garages I don't have enough room for all my cars. With that car in it I only moved the trailer about 100' and probably didn't even need to stap it down.
V
Venomiss
Guest
2006 Trailer International Enclosed Car Hauler - ViperClub Classifieds
You saw this in the classifieds? Just in case.
You saw this in the classifieds? Just in case.
"I would also suggest putting down some of the sandpaper type tape ( sometimes called non-slip tape) on the top of the board set up, to keep the car from moving in the trailer."
This is a great idea. We do this in all of our trailers as we did have a car shift one time due to the slick foors and hit the wheel wheel-remember, on a long trip those nylon straps do stretch so you have to recheck them after 25 miles or so. The kid that worked for me didn't do it and he learned why I had told him to.
This is a great idea. We do this in all of our trailers as we did have a car shift one time due to the slick foors and hit the wheel wheel-remember, on a long trip those nylon straps do stretch so you have to recheck them after 25 miles or so. The kid that worked for me didn't do it and he learned why I had told him to.
AZTVR -- I like to have a winch because most of the time I am by myself
for loading/unloading....driving up on the trailer can easily take out the clutch or at least do some harm as you ride the clutch to load, I ALSO don't trust anyone to be my guide as I drive on because the Viper only has about 1 inch clearance on each side and a missturned wheel causes hundreds of dollars damage....I have several other cars that have sensitive clutches and a mistake with one of them can easily set you back $10,000....with the winch I can watch carefully both sides as I load....get so close on the trailer then I hook up the tie down straps and use the strap winch to get in final position before I strap down the rear....one car I have to load backwards and with the winch ( by the way my winch has a wireless switch, no cables in the way) I can control exactly where it ends up and also I can see how the tongue weight starts showing as you load as well...on my open trailer my wheel well removes so I can easily open the car door, on my enclosed trailer I do NOT have the side door, so I put a coated cable up in the ceiling along the right side ( similar to the old style bus cords on a bus when you wanted the driver to stop at the next bus stop , remember ??) and I use this for leverage to pull my self out and up on top of the trailer wheel covers to walk out between the trailer wall and the loaded car...sorry no pictures available right now, I hope my description helps....good luck..
for loading/unloading....driving up on the trailer can easily take out the clutch or at least do some harm as you ride the clutch to load, I ALSO don't trust anyone to be my guide as I drive on because the Viper only has about 1 inch clearance on each side and a missturned wheel causes hundreds of dollars damage....I have several other cars that have sensitive clutches and a mistake with one of them can easily set you back $10,000....with the winch I can watch carefully both sides as I load....get so close on the trailer then I hook up the tie down straps and use the strap winch to get in final position before I strap down the rear....one car I have to load backwards and with the winch ( by the way my winch has a wireless switch, no cables in the way) I can control exactly where it ends up and also I can see how the tongue weight starts showing as you load as well...on my open trailer my wheel well removes so I can easily open the car door, on my enclosed trailer I do NOT have the side door, so I put a coated cable up in the ceiling along the right side ( similar to the old style bus cords on a bus when you wanted the driver to stop at the next bus stop , remember ??) and I use this for leverage to pull my self out and up on top of the trailer wheel covers to walk out between the trailer wall and the loaded car...sorry no pictures available right now, I hope my description helps....good luck..
AZTVR
Enthusiast
A lot of good input on a trailer here. So far I have decided on a black enclosed trailer with a winch and e-track in the front.
I will be loading by myself most of the time and a lot of the used trailers don't have the driver side exit door so that winch would be nice.
I will be loading by myself most of the time and a lot of the used trailers don't have the driver side exit door so that winch would be nice.
dun4791
Viper Owner
V
Venomiss
Guest
A few threads devoted just to trailers for you. Some with great pictures and links.
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/628802-trailer-my-viper.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/sneaky-petes-place/623985-discounted-featherlite-trailers.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/general-viper-discussion/613729-viper-trailers.html
Some really good information from Gary Almond in this one:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/607534-best-enclosed-trailor-viper-help.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/628802-trailer-my-viper.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/sneaky-petes-place/623985-discounted-featherlite-trailers.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/general-viper-discussion/613729-viper-trailers.html
Some really good information from Gary Almond in this one:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/607534-best-enclosed-trailor-viper-help.html
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
One thing about the open trailer is all the looks and thumbs you get are kinda nice. Unfortunately I'm usually beat tired by the time I get home and can barely muster a smile and wave back.
DublinOH
Enthusiast
I just ordered a new trailer. I thought about an escape door (roadside), but in most cases our cars are so low the doors would hit the inner fender wells, so no advantage. I bought a new 24' Haulmark Edge race trailer really loaded up. ~ $14,000. Just for comparison purposes. I know where there is a really nice new all aluminum pace 24' w/ (2) 3500# axles for $11,500 if interested. Aluminum floor, smooth interior walls and exterior walls.
Steve
Steve
BigBadViper
Enthusiast
When you guys winch your Vipers in, where do you attach the winch to? I just put a winch on my trailer, and wasn't sure what to do.
