I think (hope!) my clutch finally went...help?

[illegalspeeds]

BLUF: Clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging when I push the pedal,and I can't seem to get the transmission in reverse, even with the engine off.

Long version:
So, I backed my car out of the garage this morning, and couldn't get it out of reverse. I had to shut it down, shift into 1st, then carefully put her back in the garage. The clutch was engaging VERY low in the pedal travel, and nearly drove through the back wall of the garage...thank you, new brakes!
Now, the clutch is soft all the way to the last 2-3" of travel. I can row through all gears with the engine off, but can't get into reverse.

So...bad clutch? Bad master cylinder? Bad slave/throwout? Bad tranny? (Please don't say bad tranny!)

Background: 2000 RT/10, 59,000 miles. Pretty sure it's the original clutch. I have had the car for 9 years and 30,000 miles, and I know I haven't put a clutch in.

Thanks.

Matt

 

[Steve-Indy]

Ever change the clutch fluid?

I'll bet slave cylinder...maybe master cylinder as well (saw this combo on a 2001 and a 2002 last fall at our Service Session).

Good luck with it.

 

[Roysviper]

If the slave cyclinder is good and the fluids are full and there is no sign of brake fluid on the floor below the clutch in car, could be going out clutch.......I had one go out and when it did it got so bad it wouldn't shift in to any gear anymore even with the ignition turned off.....I had to replace the clutch and pressure plate and went on and ordered the complete package from SPEC 3+ with matching aluminum flywheel....I love that clutch.....It is GREAT......of course new throwout bearing, slave cylinder and all....doing it yourself it is still over $2000 for the parts......too much fun....easy to take out the trans and everything though.....got a lift?.......hope any of this helps.....

BLUF: Clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging when I push the pedal,and I can't seem to get the transmission in reverse, even with the engine off.

Long version:
So, I backed my car out of the garage this morning, and couldn't get it out of reverse. I had to shut it down, shift into 1st, then carefully put her back in the garage. The clutch was engaging VERY low in the pedal travel, and nearly drove through the back wall of the garage...thank you, new brakes!
Now, the clutch is soft all the way to the last 2-3" of travel. I can row through all gears with the engine off, but can't get into reverse.

So...bad clutch? Bad master cylinder? Bad slave/throwout? Bad tranny? (Please don't say bad tranny!)

Background: 2000 RT/10, 59,000 miles. Pretty sure it's the original clutch. I have had the car for 9 years and 30,000 miles, and I know I haven't put a clutch in.

Thanks.

Matt

 

[coupe]

If the clutch goes (worn out), the pedal engagement is going to be higher and it may tend to slip.
Your problem is not enough travel to release the clutch, which would point to hydraulics. Biggest culprit in that case is the slave cylinder because of the environment that it is in, but at that age/mileage, it could also be a master. Best bet to replace them both and put new fluid in. You can check the clutch life when you have the transmission out for the slave cylinder service!

 

[Steve-Indy]

Leaking fluid not always evident with bad slave cylinder. Is the clutch fluid reservoir level low?

 

[brentsGTS]

I bet its either the slave or master cylinder. A worn disk should have a high engagement point and shouldn't just happen over night. I think it would begin to slip first. Try this, get under the car and disconnect the clutch line at the slave cylinder. Then get in the car and push the clutch pedal. You want it to build up pressure and stop almost immediately. That will tell you that your clutch master cylinder is good. Then point the finger at the slave. I know this because I just recently had the same issue. No real clutch pressure tilk near the floor. Swapped out the slave cylinder and still had the same issue. Slapped a new cmc and presto! Fixed clutch

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

A blown slave does not allways have fluid driping ass the dust in the bell housing soaks it up...

 

[illegalspeeds]

Ok, so slave or master cylinder issues. No fluid under the car, and level in the master cylinder looks normal. If it's the slave, I am going to go ahead and replace the clutch while I am in there. I am having my mechanic do the work, so labor isn't free.
Best place to source the parts? I see Rock Auto has the slave and throwout bearing for around $92; I also see the clutch and master cylinder. I assume that will work? Any recommendations/bad experiences with certain parts?


Thanks again for all the help!

Matt

 

[brentsGTS]

I bought my master from roe racing and my slave from my viper tech. Just make sure they are oem. Good idea doing the clutch now while your in there

 

[Luisv]

BLUF: Clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging when I push the pedal,and I can't seem to get the transmission in reverse, even with the engine off.

Long version:
So, I backed my car out of the garage this morning, and couldn't get it out of reverse. I had to shut it down, shift into 1st, then carefully put her back in the garage. The clutch was engaging VERY low in the pedal travel, and nearly drove through the back wall of the garage...thank you, new brakes!
Now, the clutch is soft all the way to the last 2-3" of travel. I can row through all gears with the engine off, but can't get into reverse.

So...bad clutch? Bad master cylinder? Bad slave/throwout? Bad tranny? (Please don't say bad tranny!)

Background: 2000 RT/10, 59,000 miles. Pretty sure it's the original clutch. I have had the car for 9 years and 30,000 miles, and I know I haven't put a clutch in.

Thanks.

Matt

It's the salve cylinder. If the master failed you'd see fluid in the cabin or dripping out the from of the clutch master cylinder in the front. Easy way to check the master... disconnect the line at the slave. It's a dry connection meaning it seals when disconnected. Since it is sealed, when you try to depress the clutch, it will stop about 2 inches down when you press the pedal. Don't slam it down. If you feel pressure... you are good.

You can pick up the slave from Roe Racing. They had it in stock when I did mine about a month back. I bought the clutch with the "Valeo" brand on Amazon. Figure about $260 for the clutch. The Valeo part number is 53111401 OE Replacement Clutch Kit. The Valeo kit was the EXACT Luk clutch that came out.

You are absolutely correct, to get the slave out, you need to drop the transmission so while there, replace it all. I went a step further and also replace the shifter while I was in there.

One thing, if you are doing the work... bleeding the clutch system is a huge pain. Take the time, be patient, and you'll be fine. Flush it completely! Have plenty of fluid. Everything else is academic if you have the tools and some extra hands.

 

[illegalspeeds]

Update:
Yep, there is now a nice pool of brake fluid under the car. Coming from the front of the bellhousing. Definitely the slave.

In a possibly related matter, the clutch pedal has been squeaking as I released it for a while now...I'd also like to fix that while I am in there. Anyone else experience this?

 

[Luisv]

Update:
Yep, there is now a nice pool of brake fluid under the car. Coming from the front of the bellhousing. Definitely the slave.

In a possibly related matter, the clutch pedal has been squeaking as I released it for a while now...I'd also like to fix that while I am in there. Anyone else experience this?

Depends on the noise. You could be hearing air in the master as you release. Quite possible if there is air in the system, which there is is the slave drained.

If it is more of a metal/metal squeak you might have a bad plastic bushing in the pedal assembly. Could also be as simple as lubricating it. Some spray lithium grease might do it. Just make sure to cover everything before you go nuts up in there! ;-)

 

[Luisv]

So?.... What finally happened?