LED Replacement Lighting Thread

[ohlarikd]

I had to grab a pair of pliers and gently squeeze it while twisting...for some reason, that socket holder is a very tight fit, and I also couldn't get it to budge by hand.

I did the same - pliers. Can't remember clockwise or counterclockwise. Once they are taken out once, next time you can do it by hand.

 

[ohlarikd]

So did you figure out what is the problem with the parking lights in those amber triangles? Would replacing the bulbs take care of the problem or it just does not work with LED turn signals and you lose turn signals?

Once you have a LED 3157 main bulb, the triangle bulb will kill it, whether it is LED or stock. I also tries stock and aftermarket flasher relays. I was told that I need to place a 1.5ohm resistor on the 3157. The resistors is a 50 watt resistor, so they recommend, which is a huge heat sink. Not sure if its worth the bother yet. But I may try it though soon... need to order it, there is no such thing at radio shack.

 

[PeterMJ]

Once you have a LED 3157 main bulb, the triangle bulb will kill it, whether it is LED or stock. I also tries stock and aftermarket flasher relays. I was told that I need to place a 1.5ohm resistor on the 3157. The resistors is a 50 watt resistor, so they recommend, which is a huge heat sink. Not sure if its worth the bother yet. But I may try it though soon... need to order it, there is no such thing at radio shack.

not to sound stupid but what do you mean it will kill it? It will not light up or not flash at all? I did full LED swaps on a few cars, including current vette, never had a glitch. Seems like BCM may be causing a problem. The parking and turn are connected in parallel, that is quite a bit of resistance.

 

[ohlarikd]

not to sound stupid but what do you mean it will kill it? It will not light up or not flash at all? I did full LED swaps on a few cars, including current vette, never had a glitch. Seems like BCM may be causing a problem. The parking and turn are connected in parallel, that is quite a bit of resistance.

With the LED 3157 in place, and NO bulb in the side marker, the LED works fine, as you see in the videos.

If I plug in LED 168 side light, switchback goes OUT completely. Does not function at all as a parking light.
- If I turn on blinker, it will not blink at all, it stays solid yellow

If I plug in the original incandescent 168 side light, switchback goes solid yellow, like original parking light.
- If I turn on blinker, it blinks very slowly as yellow. Sometimes it just stops.

They said they have seen this, and the solution is to put the resistors in. However, they get really hot apparently, so I am not to inclined to try bother.

If the front didn't have alternating blinker bulbs, it probably would be fine. However that second bulb is wired in, it causes unusual issues. I don't have a wiring diagram, so I don't know what to do really other than follow the advice of adding the resistors.

Derek

 

[ohlarikd]

Also - I don't know if this side marker issue is a function of the switchback. When my regular amber turn signals come in, I can try them in place of the switchbacks, and see if that solves the issue.

 

[PeterMJ]

With the LED 3157 in place, and NO bulb in the side marker, the LED works fine, as you see in the videos.

If I plug in LED 168 side light, switchback goes OUT completely. Does not function at all as a parking light.
- If I turn on blinker, it will not blink at all, it stays solid yellow

If I plug in the original incandescent 168 side light, switchback goes solid yellow, like original parking light.
- If I turn on blinker, it blinks very slowly as yellow. Sometimes it just stops.

They said they have seen this, and the solution is to put the resistors in. However, they get really hot apparently, so I am not to inclined to try bother.

If the front didn't have alternating blinker bulbs, it probably would be fine. However that second bulb is wired in, it causes unusual issues. I don't have a wiring diagram, so I don't know what to do really other than follow the advice of adding the resistors.

Derek

The wiring is actually pretty simple, factory spliced the main parking light, the one that also functions as the turn signal and hooked up the marker to the positive and negative of that part of the parking/turn harness. In other words, a simple parallel circuit. In parallel, the voltage will stay the same, however, LED has very low resistance, safe to assume zero, thus the resistance of the combined circuit will become very low. I do not think you need such a big resistor if you install it in series right by the main parking/turn light.

 

[PeterMJ]

Also - I don't know if this side marker issue is a function of the switchback. When my regular amber turn signals come in, I can try them in place of the switchbacks, and see if that solves the issue.

I do not think it is, I think it is a function of these two lights being wired in parallel. I think it will happen with any low resistance bulb. BCM sees the resistance that is actually lower than the resistance of the LED, pretty much open circuit. This is why this kinda works when you take out the bulb from the marker light. Apparently the resistance of LED by itself is high enough to keep things going.

 

[ohlarikd]

I do not think it is, I think it is a function of these two lights being wired in parallel. I think it will happen with any low resistance bulb. BCM sees the resistance that is actually lower than the resistance of the LED, pretty much open circuit. This is why this kinda works when you take out the bulb from the marker light. Apparently the resistance of LED by itself is high enough to keep things going.

I see, so when I put the marker in parallel, the resistance drops even more. The thing is, the flasher I have does not care about resistance. It seems to be more of a function of the switchback circuitry I think, which is why I want to try a non-switchback bulb and see what happens.

 

[Mamba52]

Just ordered mine (3157). I found a set of fogs on ebay from the same company but when I tryed to pay it wont let me .

 

[PeterMJ]

I see, so when I put the marker in parallel, the resistance drops even more. The thing is, the flasher I have does not care about resistance. It seems to be more of a function of the switchback circuitry I think, which is why I want to try a non-switchback bulb and see what happens.

Have you tried to take out the switchback, putting the regular bulb back and just replacing the bulb in triangle with LED?

 

[beerly]

With the switchback running white when the headlights are on, along with fogs, have you had any issues with them being too bright? (i.e. people flashing you thinking you have brights on?)

 

[Steve M]

Have you tried to take out the switchback, putting the regular bulb back and just replacing the bulb in triangle with LED?

That's how I have mine, and it seems to work just fine, assuming that the marker light is supposed to alternate flashing with the actual turn signal bulb (when the turn signal is on, the side marker is off, and vice versa). I never verified how the system worked until after I had changed the marker bulb to LED, so I was a bit unsure at first when looking at it during operation.

 

[ohlarikd]

Have you tried to take out the switchback, putting the regular bulb back and just replacing the bulb in triangle with LED?

I am going to try all kinds of combinations when the LED 3157s come in that are back ordered. I will go back to all incandescent, then add LED marker, then LED normal amber. Then try switchback again. I will see what works and doesn't work at that time.

In the end, I am keeping the switch back, since I really like it. Could't care less about that yellow marker bulb.

 

[ohlarikd]

With the switchback running white when the headlights are on, along with fogs, have you had any issues with them being too bright? (i.e. people flashing you thinking you have brights on?)

I acually have not been able to drive the car at night since I put this all in... But I will soon. I can't see it being a problem, the fogs are so low, and the white parking lights are not blindingly bright.

 

[PeterMJ]

I am going to try all kinds of combinations when the LED 3157s come in that are back ordered. I will go back to all incandescent, then add LED marker, then LED normal amber. Then try switchback again. I will see what works and doesn't work at that time.

In the end, I am keeping the switch back, since I really like it. Could't care less about that yellow marker bulb.

Well, I appreciate your trials. I ordered four resistors last night to get my switchover done. This is the first time I will have to use them but it is what it is. Seven bucks for four resistors is pretty cheap. I think you should do the same thing. You can get a strip of aluminum from HD to increase the size of heatsinks and mount the resistors to it. Seems like whoever gave you the advice on resistors, did not know the specifics on the car.

 

[ohlarikd]

Well, I appreciate your trials. I ordered four resistors last night to get my switchover done. This is the first time I will have to use them but it is what it is. Seven bucks for four resistors is pretty cheap. I think you should do the same thing. You can get a strip of aluminum from HD to increase the size of heatsinks and mount the resistors to it. Seems like whoever gave you the advice on resistors, did not know the specifics on the car.

V-LEDs gave me the specs on resistors. Where did you get the resistors, and what specs? I just am not too thrilled to have 4 burning hot resistors mounted under there, if I can avoid it.

Are you using them to avoid buying a new Flasher Relay? Did you buy normal LEDs in front, or switchbacks?

Glad to see some others trying this out. Steve M, what is your setup?

 

[ohlarikd]

So, does anyone have the Wiring Diagram from the service manual for the front blinkers? It would be good to study. Not sure how the front 3157 and 168 bulbs alternate when flashing.

 

[Darth Menace]

can us GTS guys also post questions in here about these? im interested, but the GenII's LED thread is non-responsive

 

[PeterMJ]

V-LEDs gave me the specs on resistors. Where did you get the resistors, and what specs? I just am not too thrilled to have 4 burning hot resistors mounted under there, if I can avoid it.

Are you using them to avoid buying a new Flasher Relay? Did you buy normal LEDs in front, or switchbacks?

Glad to see some others trying this out. Steve M, what is your setup?

Have you ever touched a conventional bulb when it lights up? Now, this is hot. The resistors will not get nearly as hot as the conventional bulbs. Be more concerned with the loss of efficiency instead. I buy my stuff from the source of LEDs and electronics direct-from China on Ebay.

BTW, are you sure there actually is a flasher relay in this car? I think BCM does this function.

 

[PeterMJ]

So, does anyone have the Wiring Diagram from the service manual for the front blinkers? It would be good to study. Not sure how the front 3157 and 168 bulbs alternate when flashing.

my vette does the same thing, perfectly normal.

 

[Mamba52]

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Hope this helps.

 

[PeterMJ]

Rest easy. It ain't the switchbacks for sure, I just plugged in the all clear version and it does exactly the same thing. As I said, it is the way the marker and parking/turn circuits are wired together in parallel. To pull this off, there has to be a resistor by each of the bulbs and you have to replace both at the same time or none at all. Chrysler really ghetto rigged this part of the lighting.

 

[PeterMJ]

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Hope this helps.

Thanks for confirming what I wrote. LOL...

 

[ohlarikd]

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Hope this helps.

Thanks for those!

 

[ohlarikd]

Ok - so what does the Body Control Module do in terms of the parking light / turn signal circuit?

 

[ohlarikd]

Yes, I am wondering this. Clearly the Flasher does something, because the stock one makes it flash quickly, and the aftermarket one fixes it. Somehow it is in the circuit, but I don't see it in the photos that Mamba52 sent. Somehow the BCM and Flasher Relay interact.

 

[PeterMJ]

Yes, I am wondering this. Clearly the Flasher does something, because the stock one makes it flash quickly, and the aftermarket one fixes it. Somehow it is in the circuit, but I don't see it in the photos that Mamba52 sent. Somehow the BCM and Flasher Relay interact.

This car has no flasher relay. Same BCM that controls windows and locks controls the turn signal functions and diagnostics of all lights. This is base on the resistance. Low resistance is equivalent to open circuit/burned out bulb. Read up on this a bit, all Chryslers tend to use the same electronics and they are based on the same principals other manufacturers employ...

 

[ohlarikd]

This car has no flasher relay. Same BCM that controls windows and locks controls the turn signal functions and diagnostics of all lights. This is base on the resistance. Low resistance is equivalent to open circuit/burned out bulb. Read up on this a bit, all Chryslers tend to use the same electronics and they are based on the same principals other manufacturers employ...

That's fine... then what is the 'Lighting Control Module' that I changed which fixed the fast-flash? Surely this thing must be in the circuit somewhere, and it has an effect. It does something.

 

[PeterMJ]

That's fine... then what is the 'Lighting Control Module' that I changed which fixed the fast-flash? Surely this thing must be in the circuit somewhere, and it has an effect. It does something.

Relays are typically used to accommodate switches.

 

[beerly]

Well, I appreciate your trials. I ordered four resistors last night to get my switchover done. This is the first time I will have to use them but it is what it is. Seven bucks for four resistors is pretty cheap. I think you should do the same thing. You can get a strip of aluminum from HD to increase the size of heatsinks and mount the resistors to it. Seems like whoever gave you the advice on resistors, did not know the specifics on the car.

Are the four resistors for the front and rear blinkers (1 each)? I see a lot of kits on ebay that come with 50W load resistors. Are these all we should need? And I assume they are wired in line with the (+) lead for the lights. In front, do you wire the resistor into the side marker or the main blinker?

edit - after looking closer, I see that they are wired between the (+) and (-). VLED and ebay have 6 ohm resistors. Would these wired into the rear blinkers and the front side marker fix the hyperflash and low load issue with the switchback?