Steve M
Enthusiast
If you only need one load resistor per side, I guess you could always run V3s front and rear, and just mount the little box in the back where there's a bit more room to work with.
LED Replacement Lighting Thread
- Thread starter ohlarikd
- Start date
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
That's a good idea. Yes there is certainly a ton of room in the back. If I had V3s back there it would have been ideal.
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ohlarikd
Enthusiast
New V3 LEDs coming... these are big improvements, especially the built in loads. No need for the separate CLS box I had to use now:
The biggest improvement is a new smaller control module (LED driver) with built in resistance. No hyper-flash, no bulb out warning, no more CLS module. The load can easily be removed if it is not needed. This module has been CNC'd out of a solid block of aluminum, then anodized in a stunning black finish, lastly topped off with a laser engraved V3 Triton logo. All internal components are sealed and 100% waterproof. We've also added automotive style waterproof connectors, and longer - heavier gauge wires. The new bulb is a little shorter so it will fit even more applications. Lastly we increased output a little (as if they weren't bright enough!)
We are very excited about the new V3 bulbs. We hope to start shipping orders in just a few weeks. Hang in there, the wait is almost over!
The biggest improvement is a new smaller control module (LED driver) with built in resistance. No hyper-flash, no bulb out warning, no more CLS module. The load can easily be removed if it is not needed. This module has been CNC'd out of a solid block of aluminum, then anodized in a stunning black finish, lastly topped off with a laser engraved V3 Triton logo. All internal components are sealed and 100% waterproof. We've also added automotive style waterproof connectors, and longer - heavier gauge wires. The new bulb is a little shorter so it will fit even more applications. Lastly we increased output a little (as if they weren't bright enough!)
We are very excited about the new V3 bulbs. We hope to start shipping orders in just a few weeks. Hang in there, the wait is almost over!
I just glanced over all 7 pages. Good stuff! This thread makes me want to do a full set in my '08 coupe. If I am understanding it correctly, there are now LEDs replacements for all the bulbs that do not require splicing in resistors? I do not wan't to cut any wires on this car.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
If you buy these particular V3 bulbs, you do not need to splice/cut anything. Its easier now than when I did it since they integrated several components into one box now. We also figured out that mounting the load box/controller in the rear is far easier than the front - you only need to do it in either place for the whole system. The last thing you need is special non-polarized amber marker lights from the front, which is outlined previously.
I don't have V3s in the back, but wish I did! Maybe in the future. I had initially used a replacement flasher relay/lighting control module to avoid resistors, but that is not needed anymore either. Very simple now!
chorps
Enthusiast
Is it safe to say there is a decent component set that you're happy with? Since I'm way out in the boonies I don't want to be returning a bunch of gear...the shipping to Canada can cost like it is going to Siberia from some companies.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
After a few weeks of use, no one has flashed their brights at me with the V3 white switchbacks in the front parking light positions. I mean, they are no doubt bright, but its an indirect light and does not shine directly into your eyes like a high beam would.
So far, I have not had to hook up the '50% dim' lead when the headlights are on.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
I was waiting for V-LEDs to release the new versions:
- NEW! Control Module with built in Resistor. No Hyperflash! The load can easily be removed if desired.
- NEW! Automotive Weatherproof Connectors
- My original version uses barrel type connectors. These are terrible. My lights would go on and off all the time. I had to crush the connector into an oval shape to make the connection tight - no more problems. But I was irritated. Looks like they use automotive type connector that will make positive contact now.
So Chorps, looks like you can just order any V3 bulbs you need, and they are plug-and-play replacements now. I do believe they still have little control boxes to mount, but you can just stick them anywhere with double sided tape. I haven't ordered these new ones, so I cannot confirm.
You also need the special non-polarized amber marker LEDs from superbrightleds.com. It was some pages back somewhere here....
EDIT: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/194-can-bus-led-bulb-5-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/1127/2676/
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Just ordered the interior LEDs:
T1.5: Dash
NEO5: HVAC
NEO4: Key Ring
WLED-WHP5: Mirror Downlights
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T1.5: Dash
NEO5: HVAC
NEO4: Key Ring
WLED-WHP5: Mirror Downlights
viper srt10
Viper Owner
what a great thread !! I am looking forward to upgrade my interior lighting to cool white but I will have an issue with my touch screen
I have this one : http://www.sundaybuy.com/1-5-din-hd...vigation-stereo-for-dodge-viper-with-4-3-inch
and not sure if its possible to change it from green to cool white ?!!
I have this one : http://www.sundaybuy.com/1-5-din-hd...vigation-stereo-for-dodge-viper-with-4-3-inch
and not sure if its possible to change it from green to cool white ?!!
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Ah, that infamous unit. Who knows what you need to do to that, as its not part of the Viper.
Interesting point, I have an RB1, and I wonder if I should change that from green to white?
viper srt10
Viper Owner
actually the old owner installed it,
some brands like pioneer for example, it gives u a different lights colors options, mine doesn't have
check yours
the green looks bad
some brands like pioneer for example, it gives u a different lights colors options, mine doesn't have
check yours
the green looks bad
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Yes, I have a Pioneer NAV in my truck, and it has any color option. But the ol' RB1 is in standard Chrysler Green only.
viper srt10
Viper Owner
I found this, could be a solution
Pioeneer Intelligent In Dash Navigation
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B00COR3NM4
Pioeneer Intelligent In Dash Navigation
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B00COR3NM4
viper srt10
Viper Owner
looks very similar to mine, in other word, identical : (
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
chorps
Enthusiast
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Dash LED Install tips
Prepare to take a LOT of stuff off to get the dash LEDs. There are a few screws, but most things have pressure tabs to carefully snap out. Things tend to be sandwiched between other things, thus many panels have to be removed. But with patience, you can do it. One thing to note is that you have to lower the steering column to get the dash panel and gauges out. There are 4 nuts under the dash that hold the column up, so just remove those. Remove the knee bolster, and it helps to also remove the shroud that covers the key ring. The column will come down but still be attached functionally.
Anyway, curiosity made me take the RB1 apart. You can see it has a lot of lights with the blue shroud over them. This is something I saw in my 1987 Shelby Charger. Same ol' trick.
I removed the shrouds to reveal tiny bulbs that I could not see to remove. I am not sure if these could be replaced with LEDs. I wish they could. I put it together without the shrouds, and as I expected, now instead of green, I have a yellowish light on the RB1. I am not sure which is worse.
The blue ones are the lights that need to be replaced. 6 in dash, 4 in the gauge pods
So replaced the gauges, the key ring is blue, and the HVAC is white (but turned out blue as well). I also replaced the mirror lights with cool white LEDs. You can see the RB1 is a yellow color... gotta figure out how to make that white.
Fairly typical dash. These actually have a slight blue tinge, but the camera keeps removing it.
Prepare to take a LOT of stuff off to get the dash LEDs. There are a few screws, but most things have pressure tabs to carefully snap out. Things tend to be sandwiched between other things, thus many panels have to be removed. But with patience, you can do it. One thing to note is that you have to lower the steering column to get the dash panel and gauges out. There are 4 nuts under the dash that hold the column up, so just remove those. Remove the knee bolster, and it helps to also remove the shroud that covers the key ring. The column will come down but still be attached functionally.
You must be registered for see images attach
Anyway, curiosity made me take the RB1 apart. You can see it has a lot of lights with the blue shroud over them. This is something I saw in my 1987 Shelby Charger. Same ol' trick.
You must be registered for see images attach
I removed the shrouds to reveal tiny bulbs that I could not see to remove. I am not sure if these could be replaced with LEDs. I wish they could. I put it together without the shrouds, and as I expected, now instead of green, I have a yellowish light on the RB1. I am not sure which is worse.
You must be registered for see images attach
The blue ones are the lights that need to be replaced. 6 in dash, 4 in the gauge pods
You must be registered for see images attach
So replaced the gauges, the key ring is blue, and the HVAC is white (but turned out blue as well). I also replaced the mirror lights with cool white LEDs. You can see the RB1 is a yellow color... gotta figure out how to make that white.
You must be registered for see images attach
Fairly typical dash. These actually have a slight blue tinge, but the camera keeps removing it.
You must be registered for see images attach
98intrigue
Enthusiast
Looks great! I'll hopefully be tackling this task this weekend.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
I am going to take the plunge and solder in some LEDs to the RB1. This may take a while though.
I've done it long time ago on my old Rockford Fosgate Symmetry controller, worked pretty good. Should be no problem to do this. The only thing is the dimmer does not work well with LEDs, no big deal though. Nice to see you are still at it
It should be fine, the SRT is a PWM dimmer which works fine with LED's.
Did not know that, if this is the case, then agreed, he is good to go.
What about the odometer bulb
Steve M
Enthusiast
Changes out just like the others.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
The odometer bulb appeared to be one of those 6 on the back. I had assumed that from a previous post. Since I replaced the regular white bulbs with white LEDs, I didn't notice much of a change to think otherwise. Looking at the picture, I don't see any other bulbs near the odometer area.
There ARE a lot of other bulbs for indicators and warnings. From previous experience, I left them alone since the LED will produce a blinding light since it is directed straight out.
I don't know why the HVAC controls are blue tinted. I didn't take the HVAC apart and assumed it would be white, but its blue-ish. I guess there is a filter in there somewhere? I will check it when I get the radio out again. I don't know if I should try to make the RB1 white to match the gauges, or blue to match the HVAC.... or make the HVAC white if I can.... arrrg....
Pretty sure the coloring on the HVAC is build into the front face where the symbols and stuff are. Kind of like the whole thing is a blue film to start with and them painted over in black/white/whatever. Could be wrong though.
Steve M
Enthusiast
If the HVAC is anything like it was on my Camaro, it might have a blue film on the overlay to make the filament bulbs appear white-ish, thus giving it the blue tint when an LED is put in there. I noticed it too on my HVAC bulbs, but didn't really feel like taking it apart to verify. I hardly notice it since it is out of my line of sight when driving.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Usually the white/yellow filament through a blue filter will make Chrysler Green. The blue covers on the RB1 bulbs, and all the blue covers in my old Shelby Charger dash, made the resultant light green. I guess for HVAC, we may be stuck with blue now. I will take it apart however eventually, when I take some measurements on the RB1 bulbs. Not a super high priority, but on my list for 'next time'.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Well, I confirmed that the OVERLAY itself has the blue color imprinted. The knobs also have blue plastic clear inserts, so no changing that. So it is what it is.
