Lifter noise above 2500 RPM

[Bandit3]

Just started happening. Oil is full and clean, engine maintains normal oil pressure. Sounds like possibly driver side. Removed Valve cover, its clean and all looks normal.
Wondering if anyone has had lifter problems, and if a cam change is due, shop manual says to remove engine and remove cylinder heads. Ill do it if its the only alternative.
Seems cam will have enough room to remove without removing engine, will need to remove timing chain cover, radiator, condenser and oil cooler.
Why to they recommend removal of heads? Not enough room vertically for lifter removal? Not looking forward to this, oh well.
If cam is damaged, will call Greg Good for his cam, lifters. Will soneone supply his phone or email?
Thanks, John

 

[VPRPWRD]

What generation car? They recommend head removal because the lifters can't be removed without removing the heads.

 

[AZTVR]

I think that the head gaskets interfere with removal of the lifters unless the gaskets were replaced with a new style developed by Viper Specialty that allow room to remove the lifters. I read that there is "just" enough room to remove the cam if the engine is raised and maybe the tail of the trans is lowered.

Also, there has been discussion about high bleed and low bleed lifters with regards to different cam profiles; but, I didn't pay much attention to that, so don't know whether it also involved stock engines.

 

[Bandit3]

its an 06. Thanks for the replies, guess I gotta do it.

 

[AZTVR]

its an 06.

oops, I didn't notice which forum this thread was in. My info was based on Gen 2; not sure if it applies to Gen 3.

 

[VPRPWRD]

oops, I didn't notice which forum this thread was in. My info was based on Gen 2; not sure if it applies to Gen 3.

It applies because the gen2 cars had the slow bleed lifters that can be installed in the gen3 cars to reduce valve train noise.

 

[MoparMap]

My lifters are moderately noisy, but I've heard that was just characteristic of these engines to some degree, not unlike the clunky rear ends Vipers are also known for. Doesn't necessarily mean there is something wrong. More valves and hood vents can make stuff like that easier to hear than on other economy cars with more insulation. Good excuse to upgrade though

 

[Bandit3]

Molar, this is very loud, sounds like just one. Yesterday I removed left valve cover, all looked and felt good. Just removed left valve cover. Waiting for my son to crank it while I watch rocker arms. Then I'll do the same for the other side.Called the dealer we do business with, oddly, lifters (they call em rappers, thought that was an old time description), they're backordered. That suggests there is a problem with them.Thanks for responses.Anyone have contact info for Greg Good? Checking on his cam.

 

[AZTVR]

Anyone have contact info for Greg Good? Checking on his cam.

Relevant thread: contact info ?

Also, another relevant thread here on VCA: http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/651785-Finally-a-High-Performance-Viper-Lifter-Gen-1-3?

 

[Bandit3]

Perfect, thanks.much. I'll call Dan G if you'll give me his contact.

 

[Bandit3]

AZTVR, perfect, thank you. I'll call Dan G if you'll please supply his contact info.

 

[Bandit3]

Never mind, found him, calling now.

 

[VPRPWRD]

The gen 2 lifters are for sure not on back order if that's the route you decide to go. I just bought 2 sets of them.

 

[Bandit3]

VPRPWRD they said 06's backordered. Mentioned it to Dan Gragin, stated it's because of supply mfgr.

 

[VPRPWRD]

VPRPWRD they said 06's backordered. Mentioned it to Dan Gragin, stated it's because of supply mfgr.

Understood. I'm suggesting a switch to gen2 lifters because of the slow bleed design which also reduces valvetrain noise.

 

[Bandit3]

Thanks, all lifters are moving properly, no broken springs or bent pus rods.
Uh oh, pan is coming down, maybe bearing problem. Ratz

 

[VPRPWRD]

Thanks, all lifters are moving properly, no broken springs or bent pus rods.
Uh oh, pan is coming down, maybe bearing problem. Ratz

Good luck! Hopefully this works out for you and isn't too expensive.

 

[Bandit3]

Update: removed oil pan, and baffle. No metallic particles, same as cylinder heads. Removed passenger side valve cover, same as driver side, appears perfect.
Tomorrow I'll remove rod caps and mains one at a time, INSPECT bearings. Any suggestions from engine builders on a horoscope? Want one that can be bent to see "up" when in cylinder. Oh yeah, after pan was removed, looked up into engine, spotless. Piston skirts perfect and still has cross hatch pattern on cylinder walls.
Project continues.

 

[Bandit3]

Bore scope, not horoscope

 

[ViperJeff]

Lots of work

 

[MoparMap]

Molar, this is very loud, sounds like just one. Yesterday I removed left valve cover, all looked and felt good. Just removed left valve cover. Waiting for my son to crank it while I watch rocker arms. Then I'll do the same for the other side.Called the dealer we do business with, oddly, lifters (they call em rappers, thought that was an old time description), they're backordered. That suggests there is a problem with them.Thanks for responses.Anyone have contact info for Greg Good? Checking on his cam.

Ah, gotcha. Hard to say without hearing it myself, so just trying to save you some work if possible. I'd say mine has a pretty even sewing machine sound, but definitely more noticeable with the top down. I still have a strange very loud rattle from time to time when jumping on the throttle hard. I originally thought it was knocking, but I think it might have actually been a trim panel inside the car. Sounds like you're elbow deep in it now anyway. Out of curiosity, how many miles have you got on it?

 

[Bandit3]

Noise update: removed pan, lots of areas to hold old oil, and much casting roughness. I polished inside floor, should help. No mettalic debri in pan or heads. Because of this, did not remove bearings. Plugs out, spun engine, all worked perfectly. Put it all back together and no more noise. Notice considerable amount of carbon on piston tops. As I shut down engine prior to these inspections, I introduced marvel oil through throttle body while it was running. Most likely loosened it up and now, no noise. Carbon builds from mild, passive driving. Suggestion to all here, accelerate hard occasionally to prevent this.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions. Hopefully one day I can offer help to someone.
John, now a happy boy!

 

[ViperJeff]

Glad she's all good, Viper On!

 

[ROCKET62]

That or the marvel helped the injectors which are the usual source of of the noise.

 

[MoparMap]

Oh yeah, I forgot that injectors can sound a lot like a tick. They're really noticeable on my 5.7 Hemi swap in my old Dart. Even more so with a fiberglass hood with a scoop. Also made worse when the fuel rail hits the firewall and transmits the sound right to it...

 

[VPRPWRD]

Oh yeah, I forgot that injectors can sound a lot like a tick. They're really noticeable on my 5.7 Hemi swap in my old Dart. Even more so with a fiberglass hood with a scoop. Also made worse when the fuel rail hits the firewall and transmits the sound right to it...

Dropping the words modern hemi swapped dart is a recipe for hijacking this thread with pictures of said car.

 

[MoparMap]

Dropping the words modern hemi swapped dart is a recipe for hijacking this thread with pictures of said car.

Lol, it's not nearly as impressive as what I've seen others do. Mine was a pretty budget build of just putting a modern engine in a classic car. I didn't do all the dress-up and other stuff. Started with a carb and have since swapped to fuel injection. Have done just about everything on the car twice now. Once just to get it running so I could drive it, then again later to clean it up and make it look better.

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[VPRPWRD]

Lol, it's not nearly as impressive as what I've seen others do. Mine was a pretty budget build of just putting a modern engine in a classic car. I didn't do all the dress-up and other stuff. Started with a carb and have since swapped to fuel injection. Have done just about everything on the car twice now. Once just to get it running so I could drive it, then again later to clean it up and make it look better.

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Very cool! I want to do something very similar just can't seem to find a rust free car to start with here in PA.

 

[MoparMap]

Very cool! I want to do something very similar just can't seem to find a rust free car to start with here in PA.

Mine is certainly not rust free. Most of it is pretty solid and the underside is actually in surprisingly good shape as well as most of the mechanicals, but there are some nasty parts that I really should do something about one of these days. Debating just looking for a new shell to transplant everything, but not sure how far I want to take it.

 

[broomrider]

Mopar Map that is kick *** set up. I can help you look for a shell if you want. My hubby and I do old cars. Let me know what you are looking for. I think we're mild rust is concerned, I have seen him use a vinegar mixture to kill that. I can ask him.